A study on the spectral models for waves in finite water depth

Authors:
Publisher website
Google Scholar
Abstract
Spectral models for waves in finite water depths are developed based on an extension of the Wallops Spectrum (Huang et al., 1981a) for the deep water waves. It is found that for intermediate water depth, Stokes wave expansions offer a good approximation. In this case, the spectral function is controlled by three parameters: the significant slope, §; the nondimensional depth, kh; and the peak frequency, n0. For the shallow water waves, solitary and cnoidal wave models have to be used. The controlling parameters now reduce to two again, that is, the Ursell number, ur = [2π§/(kh)3], and the peak frequency. The resulting spectral models are designed with a specific emphasis on but not limited to the energy containing range of the spectrum; they are also not limited to any particular sea state. They offer a possible explanation of the variations in the spectral slope observed by previous investigators. Comparisons with observational results from both laboratory and field show good agreements.

This publication has 25 references indexed in Scilit: