Robert Guza

A method is developed to estimate harbor seiche at Marina di Carrara, Italy, from the properties of wind-generated incident waves outside the harbor. A linear model of the spatial structure of amplified seiche modes is combined with empirical estimates of the response of each mode to variable incident wave forcing. These empirical coefficients parameterize the complex nonlinear transfer of energy from wind waves to lower frequency seiche. As at other small harbors (2 surface area) on ocean coasts, and consistent with previous analyses at Carrara, the observed seiche is relatively energetic at several periods between about 1 and 15 min that are highly amplified theoretically, and the spatial structure of modeled and observed seiches agree as well. The longest seiche (≈15 min) mode is almost spatially uniform within the harbor and dominates with low-energy, short-period incident wind waves (measured 1 km offshore of the harbor). Increased wave energy and longer periods excite shorter period (1–3 min) seiche modes with more complex spatial structure, including small areas of high amplification, which have led to operational issues. The energy in each of the six most energetic seiche modes is related in this paper empirically to offshore incident wind wave height and peak period, allowing detailed predictions of harbor seiche from routine wind wave forecasts. The approach appears applicable to relatively small, shallow harbors with reflective quay walls, in which the exterior harbor mouth is exposed, and the interior sheltered from energetic wind-generated waves.

Our long-term goals include developing and field-testing numerical models of shallow water breaking waves and wave-driven processes, including currents, and tracer transport and dispersion. Improved prediction of the fate of terrestrial runoff pollution and other substances (e.g. fine sediment, chemicals) sometimes present in very shallow water.

Our long-term goals include developing and field-testing numerical models of shallow water breaking waves and wave-driven processes, including currents, and tracer transport and dispersion. Improved prediction of the fate of terrestrial runoff pollution and other substances (e.g. fine sediment, chemicals) sometimes present in very shallow water.

Our long-term goals include developing and field-testing numerical models of shallow water breaking waves and wave-driven processes, including currents, and tracer transport and dispersion. Improved prediction of the fate of terrestrial runoff pollution and other substances (e.g. fine sediment, chemicals) sometimes present in very shallow water. The objective of this project, to measure mixing and transport in a small tidal inlet, was achieved in the RIVET 1 experiment. During RIVET I, we measured transport and dispersion from within the New River Inlet to 2-3 km offshore and alongshore, at different tidal stages. Analysis of this diverse data set of waves, currents, stratification, Lagrangian drifter, and dye-tracers has begun.

Long-term objectives are developing and field testing numerical models of shallow water breaking waves and wave-driven processes including mixing, currents, and transport and dispersion of tracers. Calibrated models will provide improved prediction of the fate of tracers (e.g. pollution, fine sediment, chemicals) in very shallow water. Objectives during the past year included continued analysis of existing data sets, and extending our existing field capability in preparation for participation in the tidal inlet/river mouth DRI.

Long-term objectives are developing and field testing numerical models of shallow water breaking waves and wave-driven processes including mixing, currents, and transport and dispersion of tracers. Calibrated models will provide improved prediction of the fate of tracers (e.g. pollution, fine sediment, chemicals) in very shallow water.

The long-term goals are to understand and model the transformation of surface gravity waves propagating across the nearshore to the beach, the corresponding wave-driven circulation, and the associated evolution of surfzone morphology.

The long-term goals are to understand the transformation of surface gravity waves propagating across the nearshore to the beach, the corresponding wave-driven circulation, and the associated evolution of surfzone morphology. The objective of the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX) is to understand the effect of complex continental-shelf bathymetry on surface gravity waves and on the breaking-wave-driven circulation onshore of the irregular bathymetry. Primary objectives this year were quality control processing of all the data in anticipation of public release on 1 January 2006, and analysis of infragravity wave reflections and bathymetric changes. Additional objectives of our research are to test hypotheses for nearshore waves, currents, and morphological change with previously obtained observations.

Conventional and recently-developed methodologies for measuring beach, dune and seacliff change over entire coastal regions are described and compared with survey methods suitable only for subregional monitoring. The data needs for regional shoreline management are described and the applicability of three airborne systems to meeting these needs is investigated. These systems are conventional LIDAR laser ranging, modified LIDAR using a water-penetrating laser, and video photogrammetry. These approaches are being investigated by Scripps Institution of Oceanography along 80km of Southern California shoreline, often referred to as the Oceanside Littoral Cell, as part of a five year program funded by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. This regional approach, necessary because broad regions of coastline share a common sand resource, will help regulatory agencies make informed, cost effective and environmentally sound management decisions.