Kukizo Miyamoto

Facial skin aging is an important psychophysical and social concern, especially in women. We compared facial parameters reflecting aging of the skin in 1999 and 2010 in 86 female volunteers. Then, all subjects applied three Galactomyces ferment filtrate-containing skin care products (G3 products; SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, SK-II Cellumination Essence, and SK-II Skin Signature Cream) twice daily for 12 months (M), with the skin parameters being measured at 2 M, 8 M, and 12 M during this period. Facial skin aging parameters such as wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, and roughness significantly deteriorated during the 11-year interval. This 11-year aging process was associated with reduced hydration and increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Notably, treatment with G3 products significantly and cumulatively increased skin hydration with a correlated reduction of TEWL during the 12 M treatment period. Such treatment also significantly and cumulatively reversed the 11-year facial skin aging in the three parameters of wrinkles, spots, and roughness. These results suggest that facial skin retains the potential to recover from the aging process when it is applied with appropriate cosmetic agents.

Mask wearing is described as one of the main public health measures against COVID-19. Mask wearing induces various types of subjective and objective facial skin damage, such as hair pore dilatation and redness. Facial pore size and redness show morning-to-evening intra-day fluctuations. It remains unknown whether mask usage affects fluctuations in pore size and redness. We measured facial skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pore size, and redness four times a day for 6 weeks in 20 healthy young women. After a 2-week no-mask-usage period (baseline period), all subjects wore unwoven masks for 2 weeks; then, for the following 2 weeks, they applied masks after the topical application of a moisturizer containing a Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF) skin care formula (Pitera™). We demonstrated that mask wearing significantly increased the intra-day fluctuations of pore size, redness, and TEWL. In addition, significant correlations were evident among these three parameters. Notably, these mask-induced skin changes were significantly improved, achieving a return to baseline levels, by the application of a GFF-containing moisturizer. In conclusion, mask wearing aggravates intra-day fluctuations in pore size and redness. Appropriate moisturization can minimize this mask-related skin damage, most likely by normalizing the elevated TEWL.

Young women often complain about the daily fluctuation of their facial skin conditions. However, no objective study has been carried out on such changes. This study is aimed at quantitatively elucidating daily skin fluctuation and evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic skin care treatment. We developed the first portable and self-guided facial skin imaging device (eMR Pro) to reproducibly capture facial images at home. Two 8 week clinical studies were then conducted to analyze daily skin fluctuation of facial pore areas, roughness and redness in young Japanese women (n = 47 in study 1 and n = 57 in study 2) by collecting facial images three times a day, during the morning after wake-up, during the morning after face wash, and during the evening after face wash. After a 4 week baseline measurement period (week -4 to week -1), all subjects applied Galactomyces ferment filtrate (GFF, Pitera^®) skin care formula twice a day for 4 weeks (week 1 to week 4). These three skin conditions did exhibit different fluctuation patterns. The pore area and roughness showed the “morning after wake-up”-largest fluctuation pattern, whereas redness showed the “evening after face wash”-largest fluctuation pattern. GFF treatment significantly reduced the net values and delta fluctuation of pore area, roughness, and redness, which were consistently observed in two studies. In conclusion, the daily fluctuation of facial skin conditions is potentially a new target field for investigating healthy skin maintenance.

In vivo two-photon tomography is a novel noninvasive three-dimensional optical skin imaging technology with subcellular resolution which enables the sensitive detection of endogenous fluorophores. One of these fluorophores, NAD(P)H (a coenzyme which plays an important role in the release of free energy during glycolysis, and influences filaggrin and lipid synthesis), can be selectively detected in keratinocytes (granular cells) with two-photon tomography. To quantify NAD(P)H levels in subsurface human facial skin in vivo as a measure to determine if there are changes with age. A total of 80 healthy Asian females were enrolled in this study, aged 21-68 years. Measurements were performed on facial skin using in vivo two-photon tomography (DermaInspect/MPTflex™, JenLab GmbH, Jena, Germany). The laser beam scans a skin field of interest in pulses, focused at a depth to reach the granular layer. The near-infrared laser pulses excite the endogenous fluorophores NAD(P)H. Image processing was performed to obtain high-resolution autofluorescence images (optical biopsies) and to quantify the fluorescent grey scale to determine NAD(P)H levels. Additional skin surface measures taken were hydration (corneometer), elasticity (cutometer) and wrinkles (image capture and analysis). Statistically significant changes in all measured parameters as a function of age were observed. Most importantly, the mean fluorescent grey scale values for NAD(P)H in the youngest group studied (women in their 20s) was 38.8 (SD ± 12.39), while that of the oldest group studied (women in their 60s) was 32.7 (SD ± 12.47). These NAD(P)H levels are statistically significantly different (P = 0.0078). The level of NAD(P)H in the epidermis is significantly greater in younger vs. older skin in vivo. This likely reflects decreased production and/or increased degradation of NAD(P)H in older skin, possibly as a result of chronological ageing and environmental damage (e.g. photodamage). NAD(P)H levels in epidermal skin may be a useful biomarker of skin ageing in vivo. It is also likely that maintaining NAD(P)H production is a useful approach to maintaining good skin condition and caring for ageing skin.

Lack of firmness is a key sign of skin aging, but there are no methods for quantifying the firmness of facial skin as perceived visually. The objective of this study was to develop a convenient and accurate method for this purpose. A compact imaging system (Magic Ring) was developed to capture images of facial skin. By using an image-analysis algorithm, the number of facial lines and their direction were analyzed to give an index termed the 'Ageless Vector'. Correlations between the Ageless Vector and visually perceived facial skin firmness, mechanical skin firmness (R5), and actual age were examined for 108 Asian females. The technique was also used to assess the effects of a 14-day skin-moisturization regimen in 47 Asian female volunteers. The Ageless Vector showed highly significant correlation with visually perceived skin firmness (r = 0.816) and significant correlation with mechanical skin firmness (R5) (r = -0.775). Skin moisturization significantly improved both the Ageless Vector (P < 0.05) and the visual grading of apparent skin firmness. We confirmed by two clinical studies that the imaging methodology using the Ageless Vector and the Magic Ring facial-imaging system was sufficiently sensitive to permit the measurement of apparent visible skin firmness and that it is an excellent method suitable for practical in vivo applications.