D. G. Kanchana Dissanayake

Purpose: Circular supply chains (CSCs) have experienced significant transformations, reflecting shifts in consumer preferences, a growing emphasis on the circular economy and increasing regulatory pressures. In the used clothing sector, nonprofit organizations (NPOs) have traditionally managed CSCs, but growing competition from for-profit entities is driving NPOs to adopt profit-oriented models. This paper examines how NPOs transformed their CSC capabilities to navigate this shift. Design/methodology/approach: This study employs a case study approach to collect data from three NPOs, among Sweden’s largest operators of used clothing CSCs, each with distinct operational structures. The dynamic capability view guides the design of semi-structured interviews and data analysis. Findings: This study identifies seven microfoundations of dynamic capabilities crucial for the competitive management of used clothing CSCs. These seven microfoundations emerged across four distinct levels representing employee, managerial, organizational and supply chain levels. These findings provide a holistic framework for understanding and enabling competitive capabilities in functioning used clothing CSCs. Originality/value: This study offers empirical insights into maintaining efficiency and competitiveness in used clothing CSCs. Although the evidence is drawn from NPOs, the findings also apply to for-profits, as NPOs have shifted toward profit-driven models. Additionally, this study guides for-profit and policymakers by promoting collaboration with NPOs to achieve synergies. Finally, this study advances the dynamic capability view by introducing four levels at which capabilities arise and their importance for competitive CSC management.

Global trade of used clothing, which comprises a series of activities that connect the Global North to the Global South, has grown substantially over the years. This paper analyses the trade data of the export/import trade of used clothing to provide an overview of global trade statistics and explores the sustainability impact of the used clothing trade. Both qualitative and quantitative secondary data were employed in the study. Analysis of export data revealed a declining trend, which may be attributed to the import bans of used clothing and new cheap imports from Asia. While the United States is constantly being the top exporter, and Pakistan is the top importer, the value of exports grew the fastest in China during the last decade. Analysis of sustainability impacts revealed both positive and negative facts. Used clothing markets support thousands of livelihoods and provide affordable clothing for those who live in poverty; however, the fast fashion phenomenon is threatening this important trade. Therefore, this study urges an investigation of alternative business models to reutilize clothing waste. Remanufacturing and recycling-based business models, when implemented in the Global South, could provide viable solutions to reutilize excess clothing while enhancing the sustainability benefits. Developing collaborative relationships among the stakeholders of the used clothing supply chain is immensely necessary to implement such disruptive business models and to capture values along the supply chain.

Purpose: Used clothes supply chains are becoming increasingly complex, fragmented and less transparent due to rising volumes of discarded clothes and its dispersed reverse logistics operations across the Global North (GN) and Global South (GS). While it has a promising impact on circular economy and international trade growth, increasing exports of used clothes and overflowing landfills raise some negative concerns on its overall sustainability. This paper addresses the dichotomy that exists in terms of interpreting the sustainability credentials of used clothes supply chains.Design/methodology/approach: A systematic literature review was carried out and 55 articles were examined to identify the triple bottom line (TBL) sustainability impacts of used clothes supply chains. TBL sustainability issues were identified, reflected through the lens of natural resource-based view and interpreted in the form of propositions.Findings: The paper pinpoints seven TBL sustainability concerns and prescribes three sets of strategic resources required in glocal used clothes supply chains for mitigating these. These are (1) slowing the supply chain by tackling poor quality, overproduction and oversupply issues, (2) improving logistics/supply chain infrastructure and ecosystem collaboration and (2) embedding transparent environmental, social and governance (ESG) measures taken by both value chain actors and regulatory bodies, for embracing system-level sustainable development.Originality/value: This is one of the first studies to analyse TBL sustainability of glocal north–south used clothes supply chains. The study is unique in terms of its scope and contribution to the sustainable supply chain literature.

To be competitive in the marketplace, the community handloom craft business needs to be combined with contemporary sensibility and innovation in order to create goods that meet existing consumer demands. This study explores craft-design collaboration possibilities and finds co-creation is an effective means to overcome challenges to design intervention and market identification. Through a qualitative approach, this case study and participatory action research developed collaborative innovation between designers and craftspeople through a co-creation process. This employment of design interventions has the potential to help develop handloom community businesses by providing appropriate product design solutions. The results will aid the handloom industry and government in developing strategic design approaches that consider social, economic, and cultural factors.

This paper proposes a novel theoretical model for the community-based enterprise, which could assist in achieving UN sustainable development goals within craft communities in developing nations. This model focuses on building enterprise skills in vulnerable communities, sustaining traditional crafts and strengthening community capacity for self-determination. This article distills qualitative data from case studies, participatory action research workshops and field observations within traditional handloom craft communities in Sri Lanka. It explores the prevailing status of community-based entrepreneurship practices and argues that under current practices, entrepreneurial culture is not deeply embedded in community life, leading young people to move away from the traditional way of life and damaging the cohesion of traditional communities. This study establishes the need to sustain levels of social capital, support family networks, and encourage innovation to develop enterprise in craft communities. We recommend various strategies for overcoming structural and socio-cultural barriers to enterprise and to establish community-based sustainable development.

Consumer attitudes and disposal behaviour of textiles in developing economies are under researched, constraining capacity to address dual environmental challenges of increasingly disposable fashion and inefficient waste collection programs. We present the results of a systematic case study about post-consumer textiles waste in Colombo, Sri Lanka. Taking post-consumer textile waste as our unit of analysis, we conducted in-depth and semi-structured interviews with the local industry stakeholders, the waste management infrastructure and an island-wide survey of consumer attitudes and disposal behaviour towards post-consumer textile waste. The results indicate: (a) considerably more post-consumer textile waste than recorded at landfills; (b) consumption and disposal behaviour comparable with developed economies, significant in contexts of no formal mechanisms to address end of life post-consumer textile waste and (c) age, employment category, income level and geographical location, are statistically significant in understanding public textile waste disposal behaviour, indicating importance of appropriate policy and infrastructure issues.