Nuria Caturla

Hair follicle homeostasis is influenced by hormonal pathways, the scalp microenvironment, and environmental stressors such as pollution, UV radiation, and oxidative stress. Elissara^®, a polyphenol-enriched botanical ingredient, has shown benefits for scalp moisturization, barrier function, sebum regulation, and redness. Building on these scalp-level benefits, we investigated Elissara’s effects on follicular signaling, survival-associated biomarkers, oxidative damage, and androgen-related pathways as potential contributors to follicular health, using in silico, in vitro, and ex vivo models. Molecular docking (AutoDock Vina) of the main Elissara bioactives (oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol, verbascoside, carnosic acid, carnosol, and quercetin) identified SRD5A2 as a favorable predicted target, with individual binding energies ranging from −8.70 to −9.73 kcal/mol, approaching finasteride/dutasteride reference values. As an exploratory approach, simultaneous multi-ligand docking showed favorable global docking outputs for several targets, indicating that multiple bioactives could be structurally accommodated within complementary regions of the binding site. In human follicle dermal papilla cells, Elissara significantly increased BrdU incorporation to 245.70% of control at 0.002% and reduced SRD5A2 protein levels by 18.48% at 0.006%. In human scalp explants, Elissara at 200 µg/mL increased β-catenin, Bcl-2, and collagen IV under basal conditions and counteracted acute PM_2.5/UVA-induced alterations in β-catenin, Ki67-positive cells, Bcl-2, IGF-1, collagen IV, and protein carbonylation. Together, these findings support the potential of Elissara as a promising nutricosmetic ingredient for supporting follicular resilience through multiple follicle-relevant pathways. Clinical studies assessing hair growth outcomes are needed to determine whether these preclinical findings translate into measurable benefits.

Adequate sleep is important for learning and memory in children and adolescents. Sleep disorder prevalence is high in adolescents, as well as stress, and both can affect their mental and physical health. To this end, the objective of this study is to evaluate the effectiveness of an herb extract, specifically lemon verbena (Lippia citrodora), in reducing stress and improving sleep quality in healthy adolescents. This study lasted 3 months, during which they filled out the Adolescent Sleep Wake Scale (ASWS) and Perceived Stress Scale for Children (PSS-C) questionnaires, and saliva samples were taken to analyze cortisol levels. Also, a psychologist evaluated the results of this study for each subject and concluded if they considered the treatment to be clinically relevant. As a result, significant improvements versus placebo were detected in the ASWS and PSS-C, starting in the first month of treatment, coinciding with a significant reduction in cortisol levels. The psychologist assessment agreed that the treatment was successful for 86% of the experimental group, compared to only 19% of the placebo group. In conclusion, the results of this study revealed that the product may help reduce stress and improve sleep quality in adolescents with sleep and stress issues.

Skin exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) causes oxidative stress, inflammation, and collagen degradation and can trigger erythema. While topical formulas protect the skin from UV damage, there is growing evidence that certain botanical ingredients taken orally may have an added benefit. This study evaluated the photoprotective, anti-photoaging, and anti-erythema efficacy of a combination of rosemary and grapefruit extract (Nutroxsun^®). Radical oxygen species (ROS) generation and interleukin production were determined in UV-irradiated keratinocytes (HaCaT). Also, collagen and elastin secretion and metalloproteinase (MMP-1 and MMP-3) content were assessed in UV-irradiated fibroblasts (NHDFs). Furthermore, a placebo-controlled, randomized, crossover study was conducted in 20 subjects (phototypes I to III) receiving two doses, 100 and 200 mg, of the ingredient. Skin redness (a* value, CIELab) after exposure to one minimal erythemal dose of UVR was assessed. As a result, the botanical blend significantly attenuated the UVR-induced reductions of procollagen I and elastin and lowered MMP-1 and MMP-3 protein secretion. Also, a reduction in ROS and proinflammatory interleukins (IL-1, IL-8, and IL-6) was observed. Finally, the botanical blend, at both doses, significantly reduced UV-induced erythema reaction from the first day of intake and accelerated recovery. These findings reinforce the potential of this ingredient as an effective dietary solution to protect the skin against UV-induced damage.

Background: Recent research highlights the strong link between nutrition and skin health. Nutricosmetics, which are ingestible actives that exert an effect on the skin´s appearance, have emerged as a complement to topical cosmetics, targeting systemic drivers of skin aging (e.g., oxidative stress, inflammation, glycation). Objective: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a standardized four-botanical nutricosmetic ingredient, on facial skin, primarily the forehead, with a special focus on wrinkles. Materials and methods: A 12-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was carried out in women (age 30–66 years) with visible signs of skin aging. Participants were randomized to receive the nutricosmetic ingredient Eternalyoung® (225 mg/day) or placebo capsules. Assessments were performed at baseline and at 2, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Measurements include: forehead wrinkle volume and count (AEVA-HE 3D), gloss (Glossymeter), moisturization (Corneometer), melanin index (Mexameter) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL, Tewameter). Results: Participants consuming the nutricosmetic exhibited sustained improvements in several endpoints. Forehead wrinkle volume decreased from baseline and reached −23.3% at week 12, compared to +13.6% observed in the placebo group. Also, wrinkle count was reduced by −24% at week 12. A significant and progressive increase in forehead skin gloss was observed from week 4 (+14.6%, p = 0.008) to week 12 (+20.2%, p = 0.008), while the placebo group remained unchanged. Among participants with a more affected optical/structural baseline profile the daily intake of the botanical blend produced a significantly larger increase in gloss than placebo at week 12 (p = 0.021). Melanin levels significantly decreased in the experimental group with a 13.9% decrease at week 12, compared to −7.3% in the placebo group. Significant between-group differences were observed at weeks 2, 8, and 12. Overall TEWL and hydration showed no between-group differences, but participants with impaired baseline values (TEWL >15 and hydration <40 a.u.) improved significantly in the experimental group. The product was well tolerated, with no adverse events. Conclusion: The study supports previous clinical evidence of a botanical-based nutricosmetic ingredient, demonstrating consistent and measurable benefits on wrinkles, dullness, and hyperpigmentation, with a favorable safety profile.

Cognitive decline is a natural process that occurs during aging. Several natural solutions called nootropics exist that can help mitigate this process. However, in some cases, there is a lack of scientific evidence on their potential mechanisms and efficacy. To this end, a total of nine different herb extracts with potential nootropic activity were evaluated. These herb extracts were tested in human neural stem cell cultures exposed to oxidative stress, where reactive oxygen/nitrogen species, cell survival and trophic factor expression were analyzed. Of these extracts, Salvia officinalis (sage) was observed to possess the most significant effect. Its combination with rutin demonstrated additional benefits than with only sage. A randomized, double-blind placebo-controlled clinical study was then performed, testing the effects of the combination at two different doses for 12 weeks in healthy volunteers aged 50+ with mild cognitive impairment. As a result, the blend significantly improved several characteristics related to memory, particularly memory recall, with a more noticeable effect in the higher dose. Therefore, this study reveals the potential nootropic effect of a blend comprising Salvia officinalis and rutin. This blend could be a candidate dietary ingredient with potential nootropic properties.

Brain health is a matter of great importance as we age, where memory loss and other cognitive declines become slowly apparent. There are numerous natural solutions, called nootropics, that can help mitigate this natural process. While some, such as ginkgo biloba, have been traditionally used for centuries, in many cases there is a lack of scientific evidence on their potential mechanisms and efficacy. To this end, the objective of the current study is to evaluate and compare several standardized herb extracts with potential nootropic effects, and from this analysis develop a formula and confirm its effect in healthy volunteers with mild cognitive impairment. A total of 9 standardized herb extracts were chosen based on previous scientific evidence and tested in human neural stem cell cultures exposed to oxidative stress. The expression of nerve growth factor (NGF), NRF2 and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) were also analyzed. As a result, it was observed that an extract from Salvia officinalis revealed to have the most noticeable effect among the herbs analyzed. In further tests it was confirmed that its combination with rutin, a phenolic compound with potential nootropic effects, increased brain derived neurotrophic factor (BDNF) expression, as well as inhibiting acetylcholine esterase (AChE) activity. Finally, a randomized, double-blind placebo-controlled clinical study was conducted, testing the effects of the combination at two different doses, for 12 weeks, in healthy volunteers aged 50+ with mild cognitive impairment. Two questionnaires were applied, the MoCA and ADAS-Cog. As a result, both doses significantly improved several characteristics related to memory, particularly memory recall, with a more noticeable effect in the higher dose. Therefore, the results suggest that the long-term intake, at least 6-12 weeks, of a natural herb blend comprised of Salvia officinalis and rutin can help improve certain brain health-related parameters in healthy subjects with mild cognitive impairment.

Environmental pollution is increasingly recognized as a significant contributor to skin and scalp damage. Oral supplementation with a specific blend of four standardized botanical extracts (Rosmarinus officinalis, Lippia citriodora, Olea europaea leaf, and Sophora japonica) has been previously demonstrated to enhance skin health in individuals exposed to high environmental stress. Thus, it might represent a convenient strategy to also improve their scalp health aspect, particularly in subjects with sensitive scalps. To support these effects, a 12-week double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial was performed in 66 women working outdoors in urban areas with high particulate matter (PM) levels and taking 250 mg of the botanical blend daily. Product efficacy was measured as follows: skin antioxidant status (FRAP); skin and scalp moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), and oiliness (sebumeter); skin radiance and colour (spectrophotometer), elasticity and firmness (cutometer) and wrinkle depth (image analysis); and scalp clinical evaluation. Despite constant exposure to increased levels of PM, the tested product positively influenced all monitored parameters compared to both baseline and the placebo-treated group, in as early as 4 weeks. At the end of the study, key improvements included increased skin FRAP (21.9%), moisturization (9.5%), radiance (24.9%) and reduced wrinkle depth (−16.5%), dark spot pigmentation (−26.2%), and skin oiliness (−19.3%). For the scalp, moisturization increased (14.1%), TEWL decreased (−13.8%), and sebum content reduced by 16.2%. Additionally, 71% of subjects with sensitive scalps experienced reduced redness. These findings highlight the extensive benefits of the ingredient, expanding its application beyond conventional skin treatments to also alleviate scalp issues.

Seventy-one healthy subjects with sleep disturbances participated in a randomized, double-blind controlled trial in which dietary supplementation with an extract of Aloysia citrodora (lemon verbena) (n = 33) or placebo (n = 38) was administered for 90 days. There were between-group differences in favor of the experimental group in the visual analogue scale (VAS) for sleep quality (6.5 ± 1.6 vs. 5.5 ± 2.1, p = 0.021) as well as in the overall score (5.8 ± 2.4, p = 0.008) and scores for sleep latency (1.6 ± 1.0 vs. 1.9 ± 0.7, p = 0.027) and sleep efficiency (84.5 ± 12.8 vs. 79.8 ± 13.6, p = 0.023) in the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index (PSQI). Sleep-related variables (latency, efficiency, wakefulness after sleep onset, awakenings) assessed by actigraphy also showed better scores in the experimental group (p = 0.001). Plasma nocturnal melatonin levels also increased significantly in the experimental group (199.7 ± 135.3 vs. 174.7 ± 115.4 pg/mL, p = 0.048). Changes in anthropometric parameters and physical activity levels were not found. In summary, a dietary supplement of lemon verbena administered for 3 months was associated with a significant improvement in sleep quality as compared with placebo in a population of healthy subjects with sleep problems.

Weight loss solutions are on the rise, and there is growing interest in natural alternatives to the pharmaceuticals in the market, which are not devoid of relevant side effects. To this end, the objective of the current study was to assess the effects of a botanical-based blend comprised of lemon verbena and hibiscus extracts on weight management, body fat, appetite, lipid, and glucose profiles in an overweight population for 90 days. The volunteers presented significant weight loss in absence of diet (approximately 3 kg, −3.4% total body weight), which coincided with decreased body fat (−1.7%, equivalent to an almost 6% decrease compared to initial value). Body fat was assessed by anthropometry, electrical bioimpedance and DEXA scans. Cholesterol levels were also significantly decreased (approximately 7% decrease). Satiety assessment revealed that the product contributed to increased feeling of fullness and satisfaction after a meal compared to the placebo group, which could contribute to the weight loss observed. Blood glucose and blood pressure levels remained unchanged, which was expected as the volunteers were normoglycemic and their blood pressure was in the healthy range. In conclusion, daily supplementation of a botanical-based blend contributes to weight loss in overweight individuals in absence of diet, while not affecting other parameters that are in the healthy range. This product could be a candidate alternative or add-on to other weight loss products as part of a healthy lifestyle.

A single-center, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial with two arms was conducted in 71 healthy subjects suffering from sleep disturbances, which were treated with a dietary supplement based on an extract of Aloysia citrodora (or Lippia citriodora, lemon verbena) (n = 33) for 90 days. Subjects in the placebo group (n = 38) received capsules of microcrystalline and maltodextrin with the same organoleptic properties. Between-group significant differences in favor of the experimental group were found in the visual analogue scale (VAS) score rating sleep quality; overall score, sleep latency and sleep efficiency of the Pittsburg Sleep Quality Index (PSQI); and sleep latency, sleep efficiency, wakefulness after sleep onset and duration of awakening assessed by actigraphy. Plasma nocturnal melatonin levels also increased significantly in the experimental group. Changes in anthropometric parameters and physical activity levels were not found. This study shows that the administration of a dietary supplement comprised lemon verbena administered for 3 months was associated with a significant improvement of sleep quality as compared with placebo in a population of healthy subjects with sleep problems. Improvements were also apparent at the mid-study visit after 45 days of supplementation.