Steven J. Lentz

The impacts of El Niño‐Southern Oscillation (ENSO) on salinity and alkalinity in an equatorial coral reef lagoon (Kanton) are investigated using water samples collected in three non‐El Niño years (1973, 2012, and 2018) and one El Niño year (2015). A one‐dimensional, advective‐diffusive model is developed to aid in the interpretation of the sparse observations and make estimates of net ecosystem calcification (NEC) rates. The Kanton lagoon experiences extreme salinity and alkalinity variations driven by ENSO variations in precipitation. During the non‐El Niño years, salinity increases from the ocean (35.5 psu) to the back of the lagoon (38 psu) because evaporation exceeds precipitation, and water resides in the back of the lagoon for ∼180 days. Early in the 2015–2016 El Niño, the back of the lagoon is only ∼1 psu saltier than the ocean because precipitation had begun to exceed evaporation. The model suggests that during El Niño events, when precipitation substantially exceeds evaporation, the back of the lagoon is less salty than the ocean (30–32 psu). Alkalinity variations in the lagoon are primarily due to dilution or concentration driven by the ENSO variations in precipitation and NEC that causes an alkalinity deficit of ∼250 μmol/kg in the back of the lagoon. The estimated NEC rate in 2015 is ∼25% lower (4.1 mmol/day) than in the non‐El Niño years (5.3–5. 7 mmol/day). The NEC rates and coral cover measurements indicate that the Kanton lagoon has recovered from the complete loss of coral cover during the 2002–2003 El Niño.

The impacts of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) on salinity and alkalinity in an equatorial coral reef lagoon (Kanton) are investigated using water samples collected in 1973, 2012, 2015, and 2018. A simple advective-diffusive model is developed to aid in the interpretation of the sparse observations and make estimates of net ecosystem calcification (NEC) rates. Salinity and alkalinity variations in Kanton lagoon are primarily driven by ENSO variations in precipitation. During non-El Niño years (1973, 2012, 2018), salinity increases from the ocean (35.5 psu) to the back of the lagoon (38 psu) because evaporation exceeds precipitation and water resides in the back of the lagoon for ~180 days. At the onset of the 2015-16 El Niño the back of the lagoon is only ~1 psu saltier than the ocean because precipitation had begun to exceed evaporation. The model suggests that during El Niños, when precipitation exceeds evaporation, the back of the lagoon is less salty than the ocean (30 – 32 psu). Alkalinity variations in the lagoon are primarily due to dilution or concentration driven by the ENSO variations in precipitation and NEC that causes an alkalinity deficit of ~250 micromoles/kg in the back of the lagoon. NEC rates in the early stages of the 2015 – 2016 El Niño were ~10% lower (4.7 mmol/day) than in the non-El Niño years (5.2 – 5. 5 mmol/day). The NEC rates and coral cover indicate that Kanton Lagoon has recovered from the complete loss of coral cover during the 2002-03 El Niño.

Along‐shelf wind stresses drive substantial along‐coast variations in sea level that result in significant along‐coast pressure gradients in the Middle Atlantic Bight (MAB) at time scales from days to years. Forty years of sea‐level data and reanalysis wind stresses are examined to determine the characteristics and dynamics of pressure gradients along the New England and Central MAB coasts. Along‐coast dynamic sea level (pressure) gradients often exceed 5 cm/100 km at daily time scales, 2 cm/100 km at monthly time scales and 0.2 cm/100 km at yearly time scales. Along‐shelf wind stresses account for more than 50% of the along‐coast pressure gradient variance at daily and monthly time scales and more than 25% at yearly time scales. Pressure gradients along the New England coast are primarily driven by local wind stresses along the New England shelf, while pressure gradients along the Central MAB shelf are driven by both local wind stresses along the Central MAB shelf and remote wind stresses along the New England shelf. A steady depth‐average model (Csanady, 1978, https://doi.org/10.1175/1520‐0485(1978)0082.0.co;2) accurately reproduces the wind‐driven along‐coast pressure gradients in both regions. The along‐coast pressure gradients typically oppose the local wind stress and, in the along‐shelf momentum balance, are 50%–80% of the along‐shelf wind stress over the inner shelf (water depth 15 m).

Analysis of 40 years of tide gauge data and reanalysis wind stresses from the Middle Atlantic Bight (MAB) indicate that along‐shelf wind stresses are a dominant driver of coastal dynamic sea level (sea level plus atmospheric pressure) variability at daily to yearly time scales. The sea‐level response to along‐shelf wind stress varies substantially along the coast and is accurately reproduced by a steady, barotropic, depth‐averaged model (Csanady, 1978, https://doi.org/10.1175/1520‐0485(1978)0082.0.co;2, Arrested Topographic Wave). The model indicates that the sea‐level response in the MAB depends primarily on the along‐shelf distribution of the along‐shelf wind stress, the Coriolis frequency, the bottom drag coefficient, and the cross‐shelf bottom slope. The along‐shelf wind stress varies along the MAB shelf due primarily to changes in the shelf orientation. The sea‐level response depends on both the local and upstream (in the sense of Kelvin wave propagation) along‐shelf wind stresses. Consequently, sea‐level variability at daily, monthly and yearly time scales along much of the central MAB coast is more strongly driven by upstream winds along the southern New England shelf than by local winds along the central MAB shelf. The residual coastal sea‐level variability, after removing the wind‐driven response and the trend, is roughly uniform along the MAB coast. The along‐coast average of the residual sea level at monthly and yearly time scales is caused by variations in shelf water densities primarily associated with the large annual cycle in water temperature and interannual variations in salinity.

Analysis of forty years of tide gauge data and reanalysis wind stresses from the Middle Atlantic Bight indicate that along-shelf wind stresses are a dominant driver of coastal dynamic sea level (sea level plus atmospheric pressure) variability at daily to yearly time scales. The sea-level response to along-shelf wind stress varies substantially along the coast and is accurately reproduced by a steady, barotropic, depth-averaged model (Csanady 1978, Arrested Topographic Wave). The model indicates that the sea-level response in the MAB depends primarily on the along-shelf distribution of the along-shelf wind stress, the Coriolis frequency, the bottom drag coefficient, and the cross-shelf bottom slope. The along-shelf wind stress varies along the MAB shelf due primarily to changes in the shelf orientation. The sea-level response depends on both the local and upstream (in the sense of Kelvin wave propagation) along-shelf wind stresses. Consequently, sea-level variability at daily, monthly and yearly time scales along much of the central MAB coast is more strongly driven by upstream winds along the southern New England shelf than by local winds along the central MAB shelf. The residual coastal sea-level variability, after removing the wind-driven response and the trend, is roughly uniform along the MAB coast. The along-coast average of the residual sea level at monthly and yearly time scales is caused by variations in shelf water densities primarily associated with the large annual cycle in water temperature and interannual variations in salinity.

The characteristics and dynamics of depth-average along-shelf currents at monthly and longer time scales are examined using 17 years of observations from the Martha’s Vineyard Coastal Observatory on the southern New England inner shelf. Monthly averages of the depth-averaged along-shelf current are almost always westward, with the largest interannual variability in winter. There is a consistent annual cycle with westward currents of 5 cm s⁻¹ in summer decreasing to 1–2 cm s⁻¹ in winter. Both the annual cycle and interannual variability in the depth-average along-shelf current are predominantly driven by the along-shelf wind stress. In the absence of wind forcing, there is a westward flow of ∼5 cm s⁻¹ throughout the year. At monthly time scales, the depth-average along-shelf momentum balance is primarily between the wind stress, surface gravity wave–enhanced bottom stress, and an opposing pressure gradient that sets up along the southern New England shelf in response to the wind. Surface gravity wave enhancement of bottom stress is substantial over the inner shelf and is essential to accurately estimating the bottom stress variation across the inner shelf. Significance Statement: Seventeen years of observations from the Martha’s Vineyard Coastal Observatory on the inner continental shelf of southern New England reveal that the depth-average along-shelf current is almost always westward and stronger in summer than in winter. Both the annual cycle and variations around the annual cycle are primarily driven by the along-shelf wind stress. The wind stress is opposed by a pressure gradient that sets up along the southern New England shelf and a surface gravity wave–enhanced bottom stress. The surface gravity wave enhancement of bottom stress is substantial in less than 30 m of water and is essential in determining the variation of the along-shelf current across the inner shelf.

A remarkably consistent Lagrangian upwelling circulation at monthly and longer time scales is observed in a 17-yr time series of current profiles in 12 m of water on the southern New England inner shelf. The upwelling circulation is strongest in summer, with a current magnitude of ∼1 cm s⁻¹, which flushes the inner shelf in ∼2.5 days. The average winter upwelling circulation is about one-half of the average summer upwelling circulation, but with larger month-to-month variations driven, in part, by cross-shelf wind stresses. The persistent upwelling circulation is not wind-driven; it is driven by a cross-shelf buoyancy force associated with less-dense water near the coast. The cross-shelf density gradient is primarily due to temperature in summer, when strong surface heating warms shallower nearshore water more than deeper offshore water, and to salinity in winter, caused by fresher water near the coast. In the absence of turbulent stresses, the cross-shelf density gradient would be in a geostrophic, thermal-wind balance with the vertical shear in the along-shelf current. However, turbulent stresses over the inner shelf attributable to strong tidal currents and wind stress cause a partial breakdown of the thermal-wind balance that releases the buoyancy force, which drives the observed upwelling circulation. The presence of a cross-shelf density gradient has a profound impact on exchange across this inner shelf. Many inner shelves are characterized by turbulent stresses and cross-shelf density gradients with lighter water near the coast, suggesting turbulent thermal-wind-driven coastal upwelling may be a broadly important cross-shelf exchange mechanism. Significance Statement: A remarkably consistent upwelling circulation at monthly time scales is observed in a 17-yr time series of current profiles in shallow water off southern New England. This is not the traditional wind-driven coastal upwelling; instead, it is forced by cross-shelf buoyancy (density) gradients, released by turbulent stresses in shallow water. The persistent upwelling circulation is strongest in summer, when wind and wave forcing are weak, and flushes the inner portion of the continental shelf in a few days. Consequently, this buoyancy-driven coastal upwelling is important for cooling the inner shelf and provides a reliable mechanism for cross-shelf exchange. Many inner shelves are characterized by cross-shelf density gradients and turbulent stresses, suggesting this may be a broadly important cross-shelf exchange mechanism.

Acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCP) do not provide reliable water velocity measurements near the sea surface or bottom because acoustic sidelobe reflections from the boundary contaminate the Doppler velocity measurements. The apparent depth of the center of the sidelobe reflection is z_sl = h_a[1 − cos(θ)], where h_a is the distance from the ADCP acoustic head to the sea surface and θ is the ADCP beam angle. However, sidelobe contamination extends one and a half ADCP bins below z_sl as the range gating of the acoustic return causes overlap between adjacent ADCP bins. Consequently, the contaminated region z < z_sl + 3Δz/2 is deeper than traditionally suggested, with a dependence on bin size Δz. Direct observations confirming both the center depth of the sidelobe reflection and the depth of contamination are presented for six bottom-mounted, upward-looking ADCPs. The sidelobe reflection is isolated by considering periods of weak wind stresses when the sea surface is smooth and there is nearly perfect reflection of the main beams away from the ADCP and hence little acoustic return from the main beams to the ADCP.

This study examines the heat balance of the inner shelf along the US West Coast using 14 years of summer temperature and velocity observations in 15 m water depth. Previous work at this site found no year‐to‐year variability in the observed mean summer temperature change despite significant warming due to surface heat flux and variable cooling due to across‐shelf heat flux. Here, the processes that affect coastal water temperatures over time scales of days and months are investigated. Synoptic temperature variability (on time scales of several days) was predominantly due to the across‐shelf heat flux, as there was little synoptic variability in the surface heating and no evidence that an along‐shelf heat flux would close the two‐dimensional heat budget when the residual was large. The analyses suggest the across‐shelf heat flux was influenced by multiple mechanisms in addition to Ekman transport by along‐shelf winds. For example, there was a three‐layer vertical across‐shelf velocity structure 40% ± 10% of the time and during downwelling‐favorable winds there was an upwelling circulation 80% of the time. The across‐shelf heat flux was generally highest near the surface and bottom boundaries, where the velocity observations were most limited. The heat budget residual was positive most of the time, likely resulting from uncertainty due to the observational limitations. An improved understanding of the processes that control the across‐shelf heat flux and buffer temperature variability in the coastal ocean has the potential to improve predictions of coastal temperatures under climate change scenarios.

On coral reefs, flow determines residence time of water influencing physical and chemical environments and creating observable microclimates within the reef structure. Understanding the physical mechanisms driving environmental variability on shallow reefs, which distinguishes them from the open ocean, is important for understanding what contributes to thermal resilience of coral communities and predicting their response to future anomalies. In June 2014, a field experiment conducted at Dongsha Atoll in the northern South China Sea investigated the physical forces that drive flow over a broad shallow reef flat. Instrumentation included current and pressure sensors and a distributed temperature sensing system, which resolved spatially and temporally continuous temperature measurements over a 3‐km cross‐reef section from the lagoon to reef crest. Spectral analysis shows that while diurnal variability was significant across the reef flat—a result expected from daily solar heating—temperature also varied at higher frequencies near the reef crest. These spatially variable temperature regimes, or thermal microclimates, are influenced by circulation on the wide reef flat, with spatially and temporally variable contributions from tides, wind, and waves. Through particle tracking simulations, we find the residence time of water is shorter near the reef crest (3.6 h) than near the lagoon (8.6 h). Tidal variability in flow direction on the reef flat leads to patterns in residence time that are different than what would be predicted from unidirectional flow. Circulation on the reef also determines the source (originating from offshore vs. the lagoon) of the water present on the reef flat.