Meng-Yu Lin

The physical processes governing coastal exchange between the surf zone, the inner shelf, and the open ocean is critical for estimating mass exchange and its impact on ecological processes. The present study combined field measurements and theoretical approaches to explore the hydrodynamics in the coastal boundary layer (CBL) in which both bottom drag and shore friction affect the transport and mixing processes. Observed drifter-cluster trajectories in a nearly alongshore-uniform coastal area showed that the occurrence of current reversal varies with cross-shore distance, which confirmed the tidal phase difference between different cross-shore distances predicted by the proposed CBL model. According to the CBL model, tidal phase difference is affected by the bottom drag coefficient and horizontal eddy viscosity coefficient. With the results of three experiments under different wave conditions, this study also discusses the effects of waves on the CBL. Data analysis based on observations indicates that the bottom drag term is closely related to the bottom shear stress induced by the interactions of waves and currents. The bottom drag coefficient under the more energetic wave condition was much greater than that under milder wave conditions during the experiment. The study also suggests that in addition to pressure gradient and bottom drag, flow structure is subject to lateral stress, which reflects the impact of shoreline roughness in the nearshore region and that the estimated eddy viscosity coefficient decreases linearly with distance from the shoreline.

In this study, a finite element method was used to establish a two-dimensional numerical model to solve the problem of the Biot equation describing the poroelastic seabed, and to analyze the seepage force on a buried submarine pipeline under the propagation of a solitary wave. The model provides a solution to the displacement of the poroelastic seabed and the variation of the pore-water pressure. By means of numerical simulation, the effects of Young’s modulus and permeability coefficient of the soil on the pore-water pressure and seepage force are discussed. In the simulation of solitary waves passing through fully buried submarine pipelines, numerical results indicate that the smaller the permeability coefficient in dense sandy bed the greater the vertical force acting on the pipeline, and the smaller the permeability coefficient in loose sand bed the smaller the vertical force acting on the pipeline. In general, when the permeability coefficient is large, the smaller the Young’s modulus the more obvious the influence of the vertical force on the pipeline, and when the permeability coefficient is small, the larger the Young’s modulus the more obvious the influence of the vertical force on the pipeline.

The flow characteristics around a pipeline partially buried in a rigid porous seabed of infinite depth are numerically examined using the classical boundary-element method. A simplified model, comprising an impermeable circular pipe with/without a permeable protective coating, is applied to analyze the oscillating-flow case. Darcy’s law and the potential-flow theory form the basis of this study. Taking advantage of the regular perturbation method prohibits the occurrence of the highly ill-conditioned linear systems because of substantial a difference in the order of magnitude among the flux and pressure continuity conditions across the soil- and coating-water interfaces. The computed results of uncoated cases reveal that the pore-fluid velocity rapidly increases in seabed areas close to the pipe. A remedy for this is to utilize a precoated permeable layer, which effectively eliminates the localized regions of the flow-induced pressure concentration. Numerical experiments show helpful results so far, which might lead to the development of cheap novel approaches to prevention of the piping effect.