Isabel Filipa Almeida

Oleogels have attracted considerable interest as structured lipid systems due to their ability to immobilize liquid oils and tailor the physicochemical properties of formulations. Although much of the fundamental knowledge on oleogel development derives from food-related research, the unique structural, rheological, and textural properties of these systems have increasingly supported their exploration also for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes. This review aims to explore the relevance of oleogels in these industries by compiling and critically evaluating the current knowledge on cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, with particular emphasis on their composition, preparation methods, and the rationale underlying their selection and use. Studies on oleogels for cosmetic uses are limited, while in pharmaceuticals, oleogels have been extensively studied for topical drug delivery, being their use in oral, transdermal, and intraocular delivery less explored. Oleogels are versatile and biocompatible delivery systems, ideal for transporting lipophilic active ingredients. Their inner structure modulates drug delivery, making them promising vehicles for innovative cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.

Background/Objectives: Chronic inflammatory skin diseases are frequently associated with pruritus, in which the neurokinin-1 receptor (NK₁R) and its ligand substance P (SP) play a central role. The development of compounds combining anti-inflammatory and antipruritic effects represents a promising therapeutic strategy. This study aims to identify fiscalin B derivatives as anti-inflammatory agents with high affinity to NK₁R using an integrated in silico and in vitro approach. Methods: A library of fiscalin B derivatives was screened through molecular docking against NK₁R to identify high-affinity ligands. Selected compounds were further evaluated using in silico ADMET and toxicity predictions. In vitro assays were conducted in HaCaT keratinocytes, RAW264.7 macrophages, and NIH/3T3 fibroblasts to assess cytotoxicity, nitric oxide production, inflammatory proteins expression, and cell migration. Results: Docking studies identified several derivatives with predicted binding affinities comparable to or exceeding those of aprepitant, a well-established NK₁R antagonist. Several compounds, particularly 2, 3, 4, 6, and 7, reduced lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide production to 41–51% without relevant cytotoxicity. This effect was associated with reduced iNOS protein levels, suggesting modulation of inflammatory pathways rather than direct nitric oxide scavenging. Most compounds showed positive safety profiles, although in silico analysis indicated limited biodegradability and potential aquatic toxicity. Conclusions: The fiscalin B derivatives, 2, 3, and 4, demonstrate potential as anti-inflammatory agents, in vitro, and as NK₁R high affinity ligands, in silico. These findings support their potential as lead compounds for topical therapies for inflammatory skin disorders associated with pruritus, although further optimization and validation are required.

Global water scarcity, intensified by population growth, economic development, and climate change, presents a significant challenge, with the cosmetics industry contributing heavily to water demand. Simultaneously, the cork industry generates substantial amounts of cork boiling wastewater (CBW), an acidic effluent with environmental hazards. This study explored CBW’s potential for cosmetic application, focusing on safety, physicochemical properties, and suitability for incorporation in cosmetic formulations. Three CBW samples (A, B and C) were analyzed for pH, conductivity, turbidity, density, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity, and total phenolic content. CBW A displayed suitable physicochemical properties and potential antioxidant activity and was selected for further investigation. Human keratinocyte viability was assessed using CBW A before and after adsorption treatment with silica (TCBW A) to reduce cytotoxicity. CBW A was more toxic to human keratinocytes compared to control water, but treatment improved cell viability. This treatment had minimal impact on physicochemical parameters, aside from reducing phenolic content. Metal concentrations in TCBW A remained within cosmetic safety limits. TCBW A was incorporated into an oil-in-water (O/W) cream, which was further evaluated for pH, droplet size, rheological behavior, textural properties, and stability. The resulting cream was homogeneous, woody-scented, with uniform droplet size and stable after centrifugation. TCBW A incorporation provided suitable rheological behavior and formulation stability after 90 days of storage at 25 °C. These findings indicate that TCBW A has low cytotoxicity, suitable physicochemical properties, and provides stable cosmetic formulations, highlighting its potential as a sustainable ingredient for the cosmetic industry.

Oral mucositis is an inflammatory and ulcerative disease that affects patients undergoing cancer treatment, namely chemotherapy and radiotherapy, significantly compromising their quality of life. Despite its high incidence and clinical impact, current therapeutic options remain limited, reinforcing the need for new treatment approaches. In this context, the Instituto Português de Oncologia do Porto FG, EPE (IPO-Porto) developed an innovative mouthwash containing dexamethasone sodium phosphate (DSP), ascorbic acid, and sodium hyaluronate. In this work the physicochemical stability of this formulation was evaluated to ensure its quality and safety as compounded medicine. Exploratory studies were performed under accelerated aging conditions (40 ± 2 °C), followed by stability studies under real-time conditions (20 ± 2 °C) and refrigeration conditions (4 ± 2 °C), as well as in-use stability studies simulating daily patient handling. At each sampling time, physicochemical characterization was carried out (pH, color, odor, and precipitate formation) as well as the DSP quantification using high-performance liquid chromatography. The acceptable range of 90.0–110.0%, compared to the initial concentration of DSP, was used as the primary stability criterion. Results showed that the formulation remained stable at high temperatures (40 °C), on short exposures times (≤6 h), and for 30 days at 4 °C in closed amber glass bottles. In-use stability studies performed during the 7 days after opening (considering three daily applications) showed that the DSP concentration remained above 90%. The results obtained enabled us to establish a definition of storage conditions and beyond-use recommendations, since they showed that the prepared formulation is stable when stored under refrigeration. Further studies are currently being developed with a view to its clinical use as a compounded mouthwash in a hospital setting for the treatment of oral mucositis.

Rare diseases are conditions that affect up to 65 people per 100,000 individuals. They are also known as “orphan diseases”, because they attract limited interest from researchers and pharmaceutical industries. Epidermolysis bullosa (EB), ichthyosis, Hailey–Hailey disease (HHD), Darier disease (DD), erythrokeratoderma, porokeratosis, inflammatory linear verrucous epidermal nevus (ILVEN) and piebaldism are examples of rare genetic skin diseases with few approved treatments. Topical treatments are the principal approach for rare dermatological diseases, and it can be useful to manage the symptoms or the patophysiology of these diseases. This study aimed to conduct a comprehensive review of the topical treatments of EB, ichthyosis, HHD, DD, erythrokeratodermias, porokeratosis, ILVEN, and piebaldism. The search was performed across the SciELO, MEDLINE^®/PubMed^®, Embase and Cochrane databases. This review identified porokeratosis, EB, and congenital ichthyosis as the rare genodermatoses with the highest number of reported studies and topical treatment options. In contrast, conditions such as piebaldism, erythrokeratodermia, and HHD have fewer reported topical interventions. For most rare genetic dermatological diseases, treatment aims to improve quality of life and control clinical signals and symptoms. Creams, gels, and ointments are frequently used as the main pharmaceutical approaches, and several pharmacological classes are employed, including keratolytics, retinoids, vitamin D analogs, topical corticosteroids, calcineurin inhibitors, and cytotoxic or antiproliferative agents. This review highlights the potential of off-label use of topical therapies as cost-effective alternatives in the treatment of rare genetic skin disorders. It also reinforces the critical role of compounded medicines in allowing for dose optimization, drug repurposing, and formulation adjustments, personalizing treatment to achieve improved therapeutic outcomes.

Skin aging is mainly caused by external factors like sunlight, which triggers oxidative stress and chronic inflammation. Natural halogenated flavonoids have demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties. Inspired by the macroalgae-derived bromophenol BDDE, we investigated the anti-inflammatory potential of structure-related chalcones (1–7). Chalcones 1 and 7 showed the least cytotoxicity in keratinocyte and macrophage cells. Chalcones 1, 2, 4, and 5 exhibited the most significant anti-inflammatory effects in murine macrophages after lipopolysaccharide stimulation, with chalcone 1 having the lowest IC₅₀ value (≈0.58 μM). A SNAP assay confirmed that chalcones do not exert their effects through direct NO scavenging. Symmetrical bromine atoms and 3,4-dimethoxy groups on both aromatic rings improved the anti-inflammatory activity, indicating a relevant structure–activity relationship. Chalcones 1 and 2 were selected for study to clarify their mechanisms of action. At a concentration of 7.5 μM, chalcone 2 demonstrated a rapid and effective inhibitory action on the protein levels of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), while chalcone 1 exhibited a gradual inhibitory action. Moreover, chalcone 1 effectively activated the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) pathway with around a 3.5-fold increase at the end of 24 h at 7.5 μM, highlighting its potential as a modulator of oxidative stress responses. These findings place chalcone 1 as a promising candidate for skincare products targeting inflammation and skin aging.

Objective: Consumer's growing environmental awareness influences purchasing behaviour, prompting the cosmetics industry to adopt sustainable practices based on a circular economy, using agro‐industrial by‐products as cosmetic ingredients. This study assessed the feasibility of using cork powder, an abundant by‐product of the cork industry, as a cosmetic ingredient. Key challenges were identified, and effective solutions were proposed for integrating cork powder into cosmetic products.Methods: To obtain a suitable ingredient, cork powder was subjected to physical treatment. The resulting heat‐treated powder was further characterized for particle size, colour, moisture content, hygroscopicity, pH, oil absorption capacity and heavy metal content. The stability of cork powder, both as a stand‐alone ingredient and incorporated into a makeup formulation, was evaluated over 90 days, and its safety was assessed in human keratinocytes and a 3D EpiSkin™ model.Results: Cork powder exhibited a brownish colour, low moisture content (3.03 ± 0.42%) and hygroscopic properties (9.04 ± 0.08%), along with high oil absorption capacity (206.93 ± 2.33 g/100 g) and acceptable heavy metals levels, considering the intended use as cosmetic (As = 0.350 ± 0.020 ppm; Cd = 0.086 ± 0.003 ppm; Hg = 0.005 ± 0.001 ppm; Pb = 1.420 ± 0.030 ppm), which remained stable for at least 90 days. The safety of the powder for skin application was also ensured up to at least 5% content. Using 2% cork powder in O/W formulations provided a colour shade suitable for makeup foundations and remained stable over the 90‐day study period.Conclusion: Key challenges in transforming cork by‐products into cosmetic ingredients include the standardization of the preparation process, batch uniformity and suitable microbiological burden. Sieving, washing, filtration and heat treatment of cork powder reduced microbial burden and improved batch uniformity. Industrial processing did not introduce contaminants, with heavy metal levels remaining below regulatory limits for cosmetic use. The treatment and storage conditions adopted preserved the physicochemical properties, and pre‐formulation and stability studies validated its potential as a sustainable innovative ingredient for decorative and mattifying cosmetics. Transforming by‐products into cosmetic ingredients is a stepwise process that must be carefully carried out to ensure optimal performance.

Phenolic compounds, with their diverse biological activities, are widely explored as cosmetic ingredients with photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-hyperpigmentation properties, offering a multitargeted approach to combat photo-induced skin aging. The study analyzed 1299 cosmetic products from 2021 to 2024 to understand the market impact of phenolic compounds and their mechanism of action against photo-induced skin damage. A total of 28 active phenolic compounds were identified and the prevalence of phenolics was 13.2% in anti-aging products, 5.2% in sunscreens and 4.8% in aftersun products. Bakuchiol and polyphenols, such as resveratrol, chrysin, and hesperidin methyl chalcone, were found in anti-aging products. Sunscreens and aftersun products were counted with ferulic and caffeic acids, and salicylic acid, respectively. Antioxidant activity was found to be the primary mechanism of action of phenolic compounds by scavenging reactive species, thus mitigating oxidative stress. Ferulic and caffeic acids, chrysin, and glucosylrutin can also absorb UV radiation, acting preventively against solar-induced skin damage. This study provides insights into the limited use of phenolic compounds in commercial cosmetics, despite their diverse biological activities, and suggests potential barriers to wider use in skin and sun care products.

Background/Objectives: Depigmenting cosmetic products are a fast-growing segment of the health products market, driven by consumer demand to address skin hyperpigmentation. Simultaneously, interest in products with a reduced environmental impact is increasing. However, the potential environmental risks, especially in aquatic ecosystems, of depigmenting products remain unexplored. This study assesses the usage frequency of skin depigmenting agents in cosmetic products and compiles data on the biodegradability and acute aquatic toxicity of the most prevalent compounds. Methods: A market analysis of Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies in 2022 identified prevalent depigmenting agents. Scientific evidence on their biodegradability and acute aquatic toxicity was compiled, and when data was unavailable, in silico predictions were conducted. Results: The study identified the ten most-used depigmenting agents in cosmetic products, including hydroxy/keto acids, as well as vitamin C and derivatives, with a usage frequency surpassing 50%. While most were naturally derived and showed low environmental risk, synthetic and highly lipophilic depigmenting agents found in 35 of 70 products (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate/tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and resorcinol derivatives) showed a higher potential for environmental hazard. Conclusions: The findings underscore the need for further research on the presence of these cosmetic ingredients in aquatic ecosystems and a reassessment of regulatory frameworks concerning their environmental impact. Mitigation strategies should emphasize biodegradable alternatives, renewable sources, and molecular modifications to reduce toxicity while maintaining depigmenting efficacy and skin safety. This study provides original insights into commonly used depigmenting agents in the health products market and their chemical structures, offering valuable opportunities for innovation in chemical/pharmaceutical industries.