Cláudia Botelho

Collagen, the most abundant structural protein in animals, is fundamental for tissue integrity and regeneration. Conventional mammalian sources face limitations related to sustainability, safety, and ethical concerns, underscoring the need for alternative biomaterials. Marine organisms, particularly jellyfish, offer a promising eco-friendly collagen source. In this study, collagen and collagen-derived peptides were extracted from the cnidarian Physalia physalis and biochemically characterized. Circular dichroism demonstrated partial loss of triple-helix structure, while SDS-PAGE revealed type I collagen related α-chains together with low-molecular-weight fragments. The hydrolyzed collagen fractions exhibited keratinocyte and fibroblast cytocompatibility and increased keratinocyte migration. Moreover, P. physalis-derived peptides modulated inflammatory cytokine release in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated macrophages reducing tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α by 38% and increasing interleukin (IL)-10 by 29%. Based on these results, a stable bioactive serum formulation incorporating P. physalis collagen peptides was developed. Overall, this work demonstrates that bioactive peptides from P. physalis possess immunomodulatory and regenerative potential and represent a promising new marine resource for cosmetic applications.

The skin serves as a primary interface between the human body and the external environment, functioning both as a protective barrier and as a habitat for a complex and diverse microbiome. These microbial communities contribute to immune regulation, barrier integrity, and defence against pathogens. Disruptions in this equilibrium can precipitate dermatological disorders such as acne vulgaris, which affects millions of adolescents and adults worldwide. This chronic inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit is driven by microbial dysbiosis, hyperkeratinisation, sebum overproduction, and inflammation. This review synthesizes data from over 100 sources to examine the interplay between the skin microbiome and acne pathogenesis, and to compare synthetic treatments, including retinoids, antibiotics, and hormonal therapies, with natural approaches such as polyphenols, minerals, and resveratrol. The analysis highlights the therapeutic convergence of traditional pharmacology and bioactive natural compounds, proposing microbiome-conscious and sustainable strategies for future acne management.

The skin serves as the primary interface between the human body and the external environment, functioning both as a protective barrier and a habitat for a diverse array of microorganisms. The skin's varying conditions—dry, moist, and sebaceous—foster the growth of different microbial communities. While these microorganisms typically exist in a beneficial symbiosis with the host, some bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes, can lead to skin disorders like acne. Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous units, predominantly affecting high-density pilosebaceous regions such as the face, back, and neck. This condition not only results in physical scarring but also has significant psychological impacts due to societal appearance standards. This review explores the skin and its microbiome, examining their interactions in detail. Additionally, it delves into the pathogenesis of acne, discussing its underlying mechanisms and potential treatments.

The olive oil industry, a key component of Southern Europe’s agricultural sector, generates large amounts of by-products during processing, including olive leaves, branches, stones, and seeds. In the context of growing environmental concerns and limited natural resources—particularly in the Mediterranean regions—there is increasing interest in circular economy approaches that promote the valorization of agricultural residues. These by-products are rich in bioactive compounds, particularly phenolics such as oleuropein and hydroxytyrosol, which are well known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. This study aimed to evaluate the phenolic content and antioxidant capacity of by-products from three olive cultivars using high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC–PDA) and mass spectrometry (MS). The leaves and seeds, particularly from the “Cobrança” and a non-identified variety, presented the highest antioxidant activity, as well as the highest concentration of phenolic compounds, demonstrating once again the direct relationship between these two parameters. The identification of the compounds present demonstrated that the leaves and branches have a high diversity of phenolic compounds, particularly secoiridoids, flavonoids, phenylpropanoids, phenylethanoids, and lignans. An inverse relationship was observed between the chlorophyll and carotenoid content and the antioxidant activity, suggesting that phenolic compounds, rather than pigments, are the major contributors to antioxidant properties. Therefore, the by-products of the olive oil industry are a valuable source of sustainable bioactive compounds for distinct industrial sectors, such as the food, nutraceutical, and pharmaceutical industries, aligning with the European strategies for resource efficiency and waste reduction in the agri-food industries.

Plant flowers are recognized as a rich source of bioactive phenolic compounds. In this study, for the first time, the recovery of antioxidant phenolic compounds from Cytisus striatus flowers (CF) was optimized using microwave-assisted extraction (MAE). The variables (% of ethanol, temperature, and time) were studied using a response surface methodology (RSM). Extraction efficiency was assessed by total phenol content, total flavonoid content, and the antioxidant capacity through DPPH, ABTS, FRAP, and CUPRAC assays. Additionally, cytotoxicity and anti-inflammatory properties were evaluated in different cell lines. The optimal extraction conditions (87.6% ethanol, 160.8 °C and 8.76 min) yielded extracts rich in phenolics (85.9 mg GAE/g CF) and flavonoids (120.3 mg RE/g CF), with strong antioxidant capacity. LC-MS/MS analysis identified 27 phenolic compounds, including chrysin, apigenin, and quercetin derivatives. Cytotoxicity tests showed that CF extract maintained high viability (>80%) in human embryonic kidney (HEK293T) and human lung adenocarcinoma (A549) cells up to 2000 µg/mL, indicating low cytotoxicity. The anti-inflammatory potential was evidenced by a decrease in IL-1β levels and an increase in IL-10 cytokine production in LPS-stimulated macrophages. These results highlight the great potential of CF as a promising bioresource to obtain value-added compounds for the development of functional foods, nutraceuticals, and cosmetic products.

Cubosomes—colloidal dispersions of lipid inverted bicontinuous cubic phases—are promising nanosystems for advanced drug delivery applications. Here we report on a microfluidic hydrodynamic flow-focusing approach for solvent exchange that enables the preparation of cubosomes with tunable size. The approach involves a preliminary step where the lipid phytantriol, the main building block, is first dissolved in ethanol to create a precursor solution. This precursor is subsequently flowed through the central channel of a cross-shaped microfluidic device, where it is focused by two lateral streams of water containing the stabilizer Pluronic F127. As water and ethanol mix, the polarity shift forces phytantriol to self-assemble into cubosomes, while the laminar-flow conditions imposed by the microchannels provide controlled mixing conditions. By adjusting the flow rate ratio (QR) between the water-F127 side streams and the phytantriol-ethanol precursor, we control the width of the precursor stream—the region through which solvent molecules exchange. This manipulation thus directly governs the mixing time, influencing the kinetics of lipid self-assembly, which ultimately determines particle size. This technique allows for the tuning of cubosome sizes from 195 nm down to 125 nm, with size decreasing monotonically as QR increases. Although variability is still significant, largely due to pumping instability and the use of a commercial microfluidic device not specifically designed for this application, the trends are statistically significant for every precursor-concentration series (Kendall tau=-0.53 to -0.73, p<0.011). Further customization of the apparatus is expected to improve reproducibility and scalability. The results obtained with this microfluidic method differ markedly from those obtained by bulk solvent exchange, which shows only a weak and generally non-significant trend toward larger particle size at higher dilution ratios. In addition, the polydispersity index is consistently moderate, with an interquartile range of 0.15–0.19. Particle characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering (DLS), small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS), and cryo-transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM), showing the typical size range, inner structure and morphology of cubosomes.

The growing demand for sustainable and effective cosmetic ingredients has prompted renewed interest in winemaking by-products. Among these, grape stem (GS) extract remains relatively underexplored despite its rich content of phenolic compounds distinct from those found in more commonly studied grape seeds or skins. This study validates the potential of GS extract as a novel bioactive component in cosmetic cream formulations. Rich in antioxidant, antiaging, and depigmenting compounds—such as resveratrol, catechins, and phenolic acids—GS extract was incorporated into creams at concentrations ranging from 0.33% to 6.25%. The formulations were evaluated for physicochemical characteristics, texture, rheological behaviour, and biological activity. The results demonstrated that GS extract enhanced total phenolic and flavonoid content, as well as viscosity, firmness, and antioxidant capacity—although not always in a concentration-dependent manner. All formulations maintained appropriate pH values and microbiological stability. Accelerated stability tests (40 °C, 75% RH, 3 months) identified the 0.83% to 1.64% concentration range as the most stable, preserving phenolic content, viscosity, and bioactivity. Higher extract levels, in contrast, led to reduced formulation stability, coalescence, and diminished antioxidant performance over time. Notably, GS-enriched creams exhibited significant elastase and tyrosinase inhibition, with lower concentrations maintaining antiaging potential throughout storage. These findings not only demonstrate that the incorporation of GS extract into a cosmetic base preserves its biological functionality but also reinforce the unique value of grape stems as an untapped resource for cosmetic innovation. Overall, the study advances current knowledge by establishing formulation parameters for a stable, effective, and sustainable cream based on grape stem extract. Further studies are recommended to optimize extract concentration and investigate encapsulation strategies for enhanced bioactive delivery and long-term stability.

The European wine industry is embracing sustainability through circular economy principles, particularly by valorizing by-products, such as grape stems. Grape stems are rich in phenolic compounds with recognized health benefits. This study investigates the bioactive potential of molecules extracted from a blend of grape stems (GS blend extract). The GS blend extract was chemically characterized in terms of total phenolic content (TPC), ortho-diphenol content (ODC), and flavonoid content (FC), with key compounds identified via HPLC-MS. The extract’s antioxidant capacity was assessed using ABTS, FRAP, and DPPH assays, while its anti-aging and depigmenting properties were evaluated through elastase and tyrosinase inhibition assays. Additionally, in vitro assays were conducted to assess its effects on skin cells, including morphology, metabolic activity, cell cycle, and cell migration. The GS blend extract was found to be rich in proanthocyanidins and exhibited notable antioxidant and depigmenting properties. In vitro assays demonstrated that the extract had no significant impact on cellular metabolic activity or cell morphology, although a reorganization of the cell monolayer was observed. Furthermore, deviations in cell migration and cell cycle regulation suggest that the GS blend extract may aid in scar formation management. Notably, the extract arrested fibroblasts in the Sub G0-G1 phase and inhibited HaCaT cell migration, supporting its potential application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations aimed at scar modulation and skin health.

(1) Background: Polysaccharide films are promising vehicles for the delivery of bioactive agents such as collagenases, as they provide controlled release at the wound site, facilitating tissue regeneration. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of Cassia grandis polysaccharide films with immobilized collagenase from Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573). (2) Methods: Galactomannan was extracted from Cassia grandis seeds for film production with 0.8% (w/v) galactomannan and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol with or without collagenases. The films underwent physical-chemical analyses: Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), color and opacity (luminosity-L*, green to red-a*, yellow to blue-b*, opacity-Y%), moisture content, water vapor permeability (WVP), thickness, contact angle, and mechanical properties. (3) Results: The results showed similar FTIR spectra to the literature, indicating carbonyl functional groups. Immobilizing bioactive compounds increased surface roughness observed in SEM. TGA indicated a better viability for films with immobilized S. parvulus enzymes. Both collagenase-containing and control films exhibited a bright-yellowish color with slight opacity (Y%). Mechanical tests revealed decreased rigidity in PCF (−25%) and SCF (−41%) and increased deformability in films with the immobilized bioactive compounds, PCF (234%) and SCF (295%). (4) Conclusions: Polysaccharide-based films are promising biomaterials for controlled composition, biocompatibility, biodegradability, and wound healing, with a potential in pharmacological applications.