Edward Beetham

Coral reefs are widely recognized for providing a natural breakwater effect that modulates erosion and flooding hazards on low‐lying sedimentary reef islands. Increased water depth across reef platforms due sea‐level rise (SLR) can compromise this breakwater effect and enhance island exposure to these hazards, but reef accretion in response to SLR may positively contribute to island resilience. Morphodynamic studies suggest that reef islands can adjust to SLR by maintaining freeboard (island crest elevation above still water level) through overwash deposition and island accretion, but the impact of different future reef accretion trajectories on the morphological response of islands remains unknown. Here we show, using a process‐based morphodynamic model, that, although reef growth significantly affects wave transformation processes and island morphology, it does not lead to decreased coastal flooding and island inundation. According to the model, reef islands evolve during SLR by attuning their elevation to the maximum wave runup and islands fronted by a growing reef platform attain lower elevations than those without reef growth, but have similar overwash regimes. The mean overwash discharge Q_over across the island crest plays a key role in the ability of islands to keep up with SLR and maintain freeboard, with a Q_over value of O (10 l m⁻¹ s⁻¹) separating island construction from destruction. Islands, therefore, can grow vertically to keep up with SLR via flooding and overwash if specific forcing and sediment supply conditions are met, offering hope for uninhabited and sparely populated islands. However, this physical island response will negatively impact infrastructure and assets on developed islands.

Coral reefs are widely recognised for providing a natural breakwater effect that modulates erosion and flooding hazards on low-lying sedimentary reef islands. Increased water depth across reef platforms due sea-level rise (SLR) can compromise this breakwater effect and enhance island exposure to these hazards, but reef accretion in response to SLR may positively contribute to island resilience. Morphodynamic studies suggest that reef islands can adjust to SLR by maintaining freeboard through overwash deposition and island accretion, but the impact of different future reef accretion trajectories on the morphological response of islands remain unknown. Here we show, using a process-based morphodynamic model, that, although reef growth significantly affects wave transformation processes and island morphology, it does not lead to decreased coastal flooding and island inundation. According to the model, reef islands evolve during SLR by attuning their elevation to the maximum wave runup and islands fronted by a growing reef platform attain lower elevations than those without reef growth, but have similar overwash regimes. The mean overwash discharge across the island crest plays a key role in the ability of islands to keep up with SLR and maintain freeboard, with a value of (10 l m s) separating island construction from destruction. Islands, therefore, can grow vertically to keep up with SLR via flooding and overwash if specific forcing and sediment supply conditions are met, offering hope for uninhabited and sparely populated islands. However, this physical island response will negatively impact infrastructure and assets on developed islands.

Coral reef islands are morphodynamically resilient landforms that can adjust to sea level rise through vertical accretion.

Wave-driven flooding is a serious hazard on coral reef-fringed coastlines that will be exacerbated by global sea-level rise. Despite the global awareness of atoll island vulnerability, little is known about the physical processes that control wave induced flooding on reef environments. To resolve the primary controls on wave-driven flooding at present and future sea levels, we present a globally applicable method for calculating wave overtopping thresholds on reef coastlines. A unique dataset of 60,000 fully nonlinear wave transformation simulations representing a wide range of wave energy, morphology and sea levels conditions was analysed to develop a tool for exploring the future trajectory of atoll island vulnerability to sea-level rise. The proposed reef-island overtopping threshold (RIOT) provides a widely applicable first-order assessment of reef-coast vulnerability to wave hazards with sea-level. Future overtopping thresholds identified for different atoll islands reveal marked spatial variability and highlight distinct morphological characteristics that enhance coastal resilience.

Beetham, E.; Kench, P.S., and Popinet, S., 0000. Model skill and sensitivity for simulating wave processes on coral reefs using a shock-capturing Green-Naghdi solver. Wave-flume data from published benchmark experiments were used to extensively evaluate numerical model skill and sensitivity for applying a shock-capturing Green-Naghdi (GN) model to simulate nonlinear wave-transformation processes on complex coral reefs. Boussinesq-type models that utilise nonlinear shallow-water equations (NSWEs) to represent wave breaking and dissipation hold significant potential for understanding coastal hazards associated with global environmental change and sea-level rise. These fully nonlinear phase-resolving models typically require a threshold condition to switch from dispersive equations to shock-capturing NSWEs in areas of active wave breaking. However, limited information exists regarding how this splitting approach influences the behaviour of different surf-zone processes that contribute to wave runup and inundation on reef environments. This paper presents a comprehensive analysis of model sensitivity to explore how input parameters that control wave breaking and dissipation influence the behaviour of sea-swell waves, infragravity waves, wave setup, runup, and solitary waves on coral reefs. Results show that each wave process exhibits unique sensitivity to the free-surface slope threshold (B) that is used to represent areas of active wave breaking by locally switching from the weakly dispersive GN equations to the shock-capturing NSWEs. Accurate representation of all wave processes, however, can be achieved if the wave-face steepens to at least 35° (B ≥ 0.7) before breaking is initiated. Results from this research support and encourage the use of nonlinear phase-resolving wave models as tools for academic research, coastal management, coastal engineering, and hazard forecasting on atoll and fringing reef environments.

We present new detail on how future sea‐level rise (SLR) will modify nonlinear wave transformation processes, shoreline wave energy, and wave driven flooding on atoll islands. Frequent and destructive wave inundation is a primary climate‐change hazard that may render atoll islands uninhabitable in the near future. However, limited research has examined the physical vulnerability of atoll islands to future SLR and sparse information are available to implement process‐based coastal management on coral reef environments. We utilize a field‐verified numerical model capable of resolving all nonlinear wave transformation processes to simulate how future SLR will modify wave dissipation and overtopping on Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu, accounting for static and accretionary reef adjustment morphologies. Results show that future SLR coupled with a static reef morphology will not only increase shoreline wave energy and overtopping but will fundamentally alter the spectral composition of shoreline energy by decreasing the contemporary influence of low‐frequency infragravity waves. “Business‐as‐usual” emissions (RCP 8.5) will result in annual wave overtopping on Funafuti Atoll by 2030, with overtopping at high tide under mean wave conditions occurring from 2090. Comparatively, vertical reef accretion in response to SLR will prevent any significant increase in shoreline wave energy and mitigate wave driven flooding volume by 72%. Our results provide the first quantitative assessment of how effective future reef accretion can be at mitigating SLR‐associated flooding on atoll islands and endorse active reef conservation and restoration for future coastal protection.

The influence of sea swell (SS) waves, infragravity (IG) waves, and wave setup on maximum runup (R_max) is investigated across different tidal stages on Fatato Island, Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu. Field results illustrate that SS waves are tidally modulated at the shoreline, with comparatively greater wave attenuation and setup occurring at low tide versus high tide. A shoreward increase in IG wave height is observed across the 100 m wide reef flat at all tidal elevations, with no tidal modulation of IG wave height at the reef flat or island shoreline. A 1‐D shock‐capturing Green‐Naghdi solver is used to replicate the field deployment and analyze R_max. Model outputs for SS wave height, IG wave height and setup at the shoreline match field results with model skill >0.96. Model outputs for R_max are used to identify the temporal window when geomorphic activity can occur on the beach face. During periods of moderate swell energy, waves can impact the beach face at spring low tide, due to a combination of wave setup and strong IG wave activity. Under mean wave conditions, the combined influence of setup, IG waves and SS waves results in interaction with island sediment at midtide. At high tide, SS and IG waves directly impact the beach face. Overall, wave activity is present on the beach face for 71% of the study period, a significantly longer duration than is calculated using mean water level and topographic data.

Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on two shore platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence, characteristics and behaviour of IGWs on rock platform coasts. Data was collected using a cross‐shore array of pressure transducers during a 22 hour experiment on Oraka shore platform and a 36 hour experiment at Rothesay Bay shore platform. A low pass Fourier filter was used to remove gravity wave frequency oscillations, allowing separate analysis of IGWs and the full wave spectrum. Offshore IGW heights were measured to be 7 cm (Oraka) and 9 cm (Rothesay Bay), which were 21% (Oraka) and 7.5% (Rothesay Bay) the height of incident wave height. At the cliff toe, significant IGW height averaged 15 cm at Oraka and 13 cm at Rothesay Bay. This increase in IGW height over the platform during both experiments is attributed to shoaling of 40 to 55% over the last 50–60 m before the cliff toe, respectively. Shoaling across the platform was quantified as the change in IGW height from the platform edge to cliff toe, resulting in a maximum increase of 1·88 and 2·63 on Rothesay Bay and Oraka platforms. IGW height at the cliff toe showed a strong correlation with incident wave height. The proportional increase in IGW height shows a strong correlation to water level on each platform. The rate of shoaling of long period waves on the shallow, horizontal platforms increased at higher water levels resulting in a super elevation in water level at the cliff toe during high tide. Greater IGW shoaling was also observed on the wider (Oraka) shore platform. Results from this study show the first measurements of IGWs on shore platforms and identify long wave motion a significant process in a morphodynamic understanding of rock coast. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.