Philippe Piccerelle

Standard ISO testing of cosmetic emulsions offers limited insight into the microstructural mechanisms governing long-term stability. We hypothesize that a single weight-percent increase in emulsifier concentration is sufficient to determine, through its effect on inter-bilayer junction connectivity, whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails. To test this, we apply a two-tier strategy combining ISO/TR 18811 testing and Turbiscan turbidimetry with rheology, laser diffraction, and AI-assisted polarized light microscopy, on two oil-in-water emulsions structured by a lamellar gel network and stabilized by Cetearyl Alcohol/Cetearyl Glucoside at 2 wt% (Emulsion A) and 3 wt% (Emulsion B) over 30 days of storage. First-tier testing distinguished formulations only at Day 30; Turbiscan index values (2.64, 1.78) stayed below threshold throughout. The second-tier protocol resolved structural divergence from Day 8 to 15, two to three weeks earlier. In Emulsion A, a transient birefringent fraction (51.5% at Day 8) preceded network disruption, droplet coalescence, and a drift of the loss tangent toward more liquid-like values. In Emulsion B, birefringence expanded to 98.4% by Day 30 and the loss tangent declined to 0.325. These results indicate that a 1 wt% difference in emulsifier concentration, within a range of industrial use, is sufficient to determine whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails, and that combining rheology, laser diffraction and AI-assisted microscopy resolves this divergence two to three weeks before conventional ISO criteria are met.

This study presents a methodological framework for optimizing “blank” solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), focusing on the use of a design of experiments (DOE) approach. Rather than emphasizing the applications of SLNs, the objective is to identify and optimize critical formulation and process parameters—specifically those influencing particle size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential (ZP)—during early development stages. A non-classical mixed design was applied using AZURAD^® software (version 4.4.1), incorporating a mixture variable for lipid composition (comprising carnauba wax, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl distearate), and two quantitative factors: the percentage of polysorbate 80 (P80) in the P80/sorbitan oleate surfactant system and ultrasound (US) treatment time. The DOE analysis identified P80 concentration as a key parameter, with optimal formulations observed when P80 ranged between 35% and 45%. A fixed P80 ratio of 41% and a US time of 7.5 min enabled precise adjustment of lipid composition. Following a desirability function analysis, an optimized formulation was obtained with a PS of 176.3 ± 2.78 nm, a PDI of 0.268 ± 0.022, and a ZP of −35.5 ± 0.36 mV. These findings validate the relevance of our DOE-based strategy, offering a scalable, cost-effective platform that reduces material use, time, and analytical effort in SLN development.

Background/Objective: Little information is available on the stability and quality controls of compounded 40% dextrose gel required to ensure its safe use in the treatment and prevention of neonatal hypoglycemia. Whether its efficacy relies on buccal absorption also remains uncertain. This study investigates the stability, microbiological safety, rheological properties and dextrose diffusion of a compounded 40% oral dextrose gel, ensuring it can be widely compounded and stored for clinical use. Methods: A 40% dextrose gel compounded with anhydrous dextrose, carboxymethylcellulose, citric acid, sorbic acid and sterile water was subjected to quality control measures including a dextrose content assay, degradation product analysis, microbiological testing and preservative efficacy. Stability studies were conducted at refrigerated (4–8 °C) and ambient temperatures for 7 days and 3 months, respectively. Rheological properties were assessed, and dextrose permeation was measured through an artificial membrane model that mimics a biological membrane. Results: The compounded gel demonstrated stability for up to 7 days at ambient temperature and 90 days when refrigerated. The dextrose content remained within the acceptable range (90–110%) and microbiological tests confirmed compliance with safety standards. The gel exhibited the consistent rheological properties and shear-thinning behavior appropriate for oral mucosal administration. In vitro permeation studies showed no evidence of dextrose diffusion with a long lag time followed by a low steady-state permeation flux. Conclusions: This study validates the compounding process of a stable 40% oral dextrose gel formulation for neonatal hypoglycemia management, which meets quality control criteria and can be safely administered in clinical practice, offering a cost-effective and safe alternative for neonatal care.

Our research focuses on evaluating the preliminary stability of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) in order to identify an optimal formulation for studying the skin penetration of SLNs loaded with sesamol, with a view to developing potential cosmetic applications. For this study, SLNs were prepared with varying lipid and surfactant compositions and produced through homogenization and ultrasonication. The particle size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential (ZP), and encapsulation efficiency (EE) were analyzed for the different formulations. We identified OP2Se as the optimal formulation for skin penetration assessment due to its stable PS, PDI, ZP, and EE over time, with a Turbiscan Stability Index (TSI) below 1 after a month, indicating favorable stability conditions. The in vitro skin permeation study compared sesamol-loaded SLNs with a control sesamol hydrogel, revealing controlled release characteristics ideal for localized skin effects without significant bloodstream penetration, attributed to the SLNs’ 200 nm particle size. Further exploration could enhance skin retention and targeting, potentially extending penetration studies and reducing particle size to improve accumulation in hair follicles. Exploring SLN applications beyond sesamol, such as incorporating mineral filters for suncare, offers promising avenues, underscoring SLNs’ versatility in cosmetic formulations and skincare applications.

The biological activities of berberine, a natural plant molecule, are known to be affected by structural modifications, mostly at position 9 and/or 13. A series of new 13-substituted berberine derivatives were synthesized and evaluated in term of antimicrobial activity using various microorganisms associated to human diseases. Contrarily to the original molecule berberine, several derivatives were found strongly active in microbial sensitivity tests against Mycobacterium, Candida albicans and Gram-positive bacteria, including naïve or resistant Bacillus cereus, Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pyogenes with minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 3.12 to 6.25 µM. Among the various Gram-negative strains tested, berberine’s derivatives were only found active on Helicobacter pylori and Vibrio alginolyticus (MIC values of 1.5–3.12 µM). Cytotoxicity assays performed on human cells showed that the antimicrobial berberine derivatives caused low toxicity resulting in good therapeutic index values. In addition, a mechanistic approach demonstrated that, contrarily to already known berberine derivatives causing either membrane permeabilization, DNA fragmentation or interacting with FtsZ protein, active derivatives described in this study act through inhibition of the synthesis of peptidoglycan or RNA. Overall, this study shows that these new berberine derivatives can be considered as potent and safe anti-bacterial agents active on human pathogenic microorganisms, including ones resistant to conventional antibiotics.

(1) Objective: Highlight the in vitro effects of 3T3-L1 cell exposure to polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB118 and 153) or benzo(a)pyrene (BaP) alone or as a cocktail on adipogenesis (ADG) by focusing on changes in lipid metabolism and inflammatory-related genes expression (INFG) and ADG-related genes expression (ADGG); (2) Results: Treatment from the early stage of cell differentiation by BaP alone or in combination with PCBs decreased the expression of some of the ADGG (PPARγ Glut-4, FAS, Lipin-1a, Leptin, and Adiponectin). BaP enhanced the INFG, especially MCP-1 and TNFα. Co-exposure to BaP and PCB153 showed a synergistic effect on TNFα and IL6 expression. Treatment with BaP and PCBs during only the maturation period up-regulated the INFG (IL6, TNFα, CXCL-10 & MCP-1). PCB118 alone also enhanced TNFα, CXCL-10, and PAI-1 expression. The change in MCP-1 protein expression was in agreement with that of the gene. Finally, the BaP-induced up-regulation of the xenobiotic responsive element (XRE)-controlled luciferase activity was impaired by PCB153 but not by PCB118; (3) Conclusion: BaP and PCBs down-regulate a part of ADGG and enhance INFG. The direct regulatory effect of PCBs on both ADGG and INFG is usually rather lower than that of BaP and synergistic or antagonistic cocktail effects are clearly observed.