Sylvie Boisnic

Background: Anti‐freeze Glycoproteins (AFGPs) were described to preserve biological materials and protect them from different stresses. Aims: The effects of a synthetic anti‐freeze glycoprotein‐based compound, TFC‐1326, on human skin quality and its biological actions were studied. Methods: The effects of various concentrations of TFC‐1326 on the biology of human preadipocytes, differentiated in the proinflammatory microenvironment, and on human fibroblasts grown in coculture with human mature adipocytes or monocultured in stress conditions were investigated in, in vitro studies. Additionally, the efficacy of a 1% TFC‐1326 topical cream was evaluated in a clinical investigation on the skin biology and appearance of 20 women aged between 40 and 65 years throughout 84 days of application. Results: The in vitro studies revealed that TFC‐1326 mitigated the deleterious effects of a proinflammatory cytokine cocktail produced by human macrophages, by restoring preadipocyte adipogenic capacity and by reducing their fibroinflammatory state. TFC‐1326 also stimulated the proliferative capacity of dermal fibroblasts co‐cultured with mature adipocytes as well as their production of hyaluronic acid and procollagen type I, while decreasing IL6 secretion and increasing fibroblast viability. Furthermore, daily 1% TFC‐1326 topical cream application, measurably improved skin radiance and laxity, as well as skin density. Finally, significant reductions of the volume and depth of the crow's feet wrinkles were also observed. Conclusions: The compound TFC‐1326 significantly improved the physiological appearance and cellular functions of aging skin.

Diosmin is used to relieve chronic venous disease (CVD) symptoms. This study aimed to investigate the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of diosmetin-3-O-β-d-glucuronide, the major metabolite of diosmin, using human skin explants. The explants were exposed to substance P (inflammation model) or UVB irradiation (oxidative model) and to five diosmetin-3-O-β-d-glucuronide concentrations. Inflammation was evaluated through interleukin-8 (IL-8) secretion measurements and capillary dilation observation, and oxidation was evaluated by measuring the hydrogen peroxide levels and observing cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs). In substance-P-exposed explants, diosmetin-3-O-β-d-glucuronide induced a significant decrease in IL-8 secretions, with a maximal effect at 2700 pg/mL (−49.6%), and it reduced the proportion of dilated capillaries and the mean luminal cross-sectional area (p < 0.0001 at all tested concentrations), indicating a vasoconstrictive effect. In UVB-irradiated fragments, diosmetin-3-O-β-d-glucuronide induced a significant decrease in hydrogen peroxide production and in the number of CPD-positive cells, reaching a maximal effect at the concentration of 2700 pg/mL (−48.6% and −52.0%, respectively). Diosmetin-3-O-β-d-glucuronide induced anti-inflammatory and antioxidant responses, with the maximal effect being reached at 2700 pg/mL and corresponding to the peak plasma concentration estimated after the oral intake of 600 mg of diosmin, the daily dose usually recommended for the treatment of CVD. These ex vivo findings suggest a protective role of diosmetin-3-O-β-d-glucuronide against inflammatory and oxidative stress affecting the vascular system in CVD pathophysiology.

Solar radiation and environmental pollutants are factors that cause changes in the skin that trigger skin aging. The objective of the study is to evaluate the rejuvenating effects of a complex formed by hyaluronic acid supplemented with vitamins, amino acids and oligopeptides in explants of human skin. For this, surplus skin samples have been obtained from donors that have been resected and cultivated on slides with membrane inserts. The complex was administered to some skin explants and the percentage of cells with low, medium and high levels of melanin was evaluated as an indicator of the degree of pigmentation. Other skin segments were irradiated with UVA/UVB, then the product was administered on several slides and the levels of collagen, elastin, sulfated GAG and MMP1 were evaluated. The results show that the administration of the complex significantly reduces the percentage of skin cells with a high melanin content by 16%, and that in skin irradiated with UVA/UVB, there is a decrease in the content of collagen, elastin and sulfate GAGs, and the complex reverses this reduction without changing MMP1 levels. This suggests that the compound has anti-aging and depigmentation effects on the skin, giving a skin rejuvenation appearance.

Background: The leaves of Tasmannia lanceolata mainly contain polygodial that is known to exhibit a range of biological functions including anti‐inflammatory effects.Aims: These studies aimed to assess the effects of Tasmannia lanceolata extract (TLE) on skin and more particularly on stretch marks in women.Patients/Methods: A double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐controlled clinical study was carried out on 29 women, aged from 25 to 60 years, to investigate the effects of TLE on stabilized stretch marks. TLE and placebo products were topically applied daily for 8 weeks. Skin roughness and firmness of stretch marks were assessed by 2D and 3D photograph processing and analyses. Dermal density and thickness were evaluated using ultrasound, while stretch mark conditions (length, color, and depth) were determined by clinical scoring. Matricial proteins (pro‐collagen I and elastin) and pro‐matricial factors, like TGF‐β concentrations, were quantified from cultures of human skin explants presenting stretch marks, treated with TLE or vehicle control.Results: Skin roughness of stretch marks was significantly reduced in the TLE group after 8 weeks of treatment. Skin firmness of stretch marks was significantly increased in the TLE group after 4 weeks of treatment, and this improved effect was maintained until the end of the study. Dermal density and thickness were significantly increased in the TLE group compared to the placebo group. Furthermore, TLE restored the dermal condition of the stretch mark skin, up to normal skin levels. In addition, pro‐collagen I and elastin concentrations were found to be higher in the TLE‐treated stretch mark skin explants compared to the untreated ones, associated with higher quantities of TGF‐β production.Conclusion: These results revealed that TLE could help improve the aspect of stabilized stretch marks in women by restoring the matricial environment.

Background: Purple tulip extract is a rich source of flavonoids which are powerful antioxidants and can hence be considered as an ideal candidate for use in skin care products.Aims: We aimed to evaluate the effects of purple tulip extract on skin quality and to determine its molecular modes of interaction.Methods: A pangenomic study on human skin fibroblasts was carried out to analyze multiple changes in gene expression. Ex vivo studies of human skin explants exposed to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation or H₂O₂ were performed to assess modulations of protein expression. Finally, a clinical assay was carried out to evaluate the efficacy of purple tulip extract on skin appearance and condition of aged women.Results: Genetic modulation analyses led us to infer the induction of many biological functions including cell differentiation, proliferation, migration, inflammatory responses, and matrix remodeling. The ex vivo studies revealed an enhancement of the collagen network and increased expression of glycosaminoglycans (GAG), fibronectin, and collagen VI. Finally, the clinical study highlighted the potential anti‐aging properties of the purple tulip extract which decreased the relaxation of the oval face and improved skin elasticity after 28 days of treatment. Significant reductions of the length and depth of the nasolabial wrinkles were also observed.Conclusion: Our genomics data on the effect of purple tulip extract on the ex vivo UV‐challenged skin showed that genes responsible for, among others, the upkeep of the skin, such as collagen induction, immune cell proliferation, and epidermal repair, were all up‐regulated. More importantly, the clinical study corroborated these data by the visible and measurable effects of the topical purple tulip extract on the aged skin of 22 women, further demonstrating the beneficial impact of the extract on aged skin.

Background: Polar lipids from wheat (Triticum vulgare/aestivum) extract oil (WEO) are known to improve skin hydration.Aims: These studies aimed to assess WEO benefits on the skin appearance of middle‐aged women.Methods: A double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐controlled clinical study was carried out on 64 healthy women, aged from 45 to 60 years, to investigate antiaging effects and benefits for the skin. The study lasted 20 weeks including 12 weeks of oral supplementation with WEO or placebo and 8 weeks of follow‐up. Wrinkles in the “crow's‐feet” area were evaluated by the Lemperle score. Skin hydration was measured using a corneometer, while roughness and radiance were determined by clinical scoring. Collagen content was quantified in human skin explants exposed to ultraviolet (UV) irradiations and treated with WEO or vehicle control.Results: Compared to the placebo group, the Lemperle score was significantly reduced in the WEO group between W0 and W8 to reach a clinically significant 1 grade at W12. Facial hydration was significantly improved in the WEO group from W0 to W12, whereas leg hydration was significantly increased after 4 weeks and lasted throughout the supplementation period. Skin roughness and radiance were also significantly improved from W0 to W8 in the WEO group compared to placebo group. A higher collagen content was measured in the UV‐irradiated skin explants treated with WEO compared to the untreated ones.Conclusion: These results confirmed the moisturizing effect of WEO and, for the first time, revealed its potential antiaging properties.

Summary: Background: Diosmin, a naturally occurring flavonoid, is considered as a vascular‐protective agent and is used orally to treat chronic venous insufficiency. It exhibits anti‐inflammatory and free radical scavenging properties, but, like many other flavonoids, it is poorly absorbed in the small intestine.Objective: Our aim was to investigate the skin protective effects of a diosmin‐based cream, using skin organ culture as model.Methods: Fragments of human skin explants, cultured ex vivo, were allocated to four treatment groups: no cream, no cream + stress, placebo cream + stress, and 2% diosmin cream + stress. Stress was induced by exposure to either substance P (anti‐inflammatory effects’ assessment) or UVB irradiation (free radical scavenging effects’ assessment). Vascular dilation and the pro‐inflammatory mediator IL‐8 release were determined in the first model, whereas hydrogen peroxide level and the number of cyclobutane pyrimidine‐positive cells were evaluated in the second model.Results: In the substance P‐induced inflammation model, 2% diosmin cream exhibited significant vasoconstrictive (proportion of dilated capillaries: −29%, capillary luminal area: −49% vs no cream + stress) and anti‐inflammatory (IL‐8 release: −36% vs no cream + stress) effects. In the UVB irradiation model, 2% diosmin cream significantly reduced hydrogen peroxide production and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer formation (−45% and −36% vs no cream + stress, respectively). These effects were not observed with placebo cream.Conclusion: Diosmin administered topically may protect skin against the biological effects of various exogenous or endogenous stresses, such as those involved in chronic venous disease.

The objective of this study was to evaluate the anti-inflammatory, toning and draining effect of the Deep Oscillation® device. The Deep Oscillation® device uses the forces of pulsed electrostatic attraction and friction to provoke oscillations that act on the epidermis, dermis, and sub-cutaneous layers of tissue. An ex-vivo study was first completed by using a model of skin maintained in survival condition. The draining and anti-inflammatory effects of the device were determined by pro-inflammatory cytokine assay and by histological analysis of capillary dilation. The analgesic effectiveness of the Deep Oscillation® was then evaluated by immunohistochemical analysis of TRPV1. To corroborate this data, a clinical study was conducted by selecting 20 subjects with periorbital bags or dark circles to undergo treatment with the device. Evaluations included photography, dermatological scores as well as ultrasound analysis. Using an ex-vivo model of human skin maintained in survival condition, the Deep Oscillation® device was effective in reducing inflammation with a significant reduction of dilated capillaries and IL8, while lowering sensory receptor levels. Clinically, the device was successful in reducing both dark circles and bags by an average of 40%.

Background: A wide variety of professional radio frequency (RF) aesthetic treatments for anti-aging are available aiming at skin tightening. A new home-use RF device for facial treatments has recently been developed based on TriPollar™ technology. Objective: To evaluate the mechanism of the new home-use device, in the process of collagen remodeling, using an ex vivo skin model. Methods: Human skin samples were collected in order to evaluate the anti-aging effect of a home-use device for facial treatments on an ex vivo human skin model. Skin tightening was evaluated by dermal histology, quantitative analysis of collagen fibers and dosage of collagen synthesis. Results: Significant collagen remodeling following RF treatment with the device was found in the superficial and mid-deep dermis. Biochemical measurement of newly synthesized collagen showed an increase of 41% in the treated samples as compared to UV-aged control samples. Conclusions: The new home-use device has been demonstrated to affect significant collagen remodeling, in terms of the structural and biochemical improvement of dermal collagen on treated skin samples.

Professional non invasive treatments for body contouring based on radiofrequency (RF) became popular in aesthetic clinics due to proven efficacy and safety. A new home-use RF device for body treatments has been developed based on TriPollar technology. Our objective was to evaluate the TriPollar home-use device for circumference reduction, cellulite improvement and skin tightening using objective and subjective methods. An ex-vivo human skin model was used for histological and biochemical evaluations of the TriPollar clinical effect. Additionally, twenty four subjects used the new device on the abdomen and thigh areas and the circumference reduction was measured. Ex-vivo models indicated a significant increase of 82% in hypodermal glycerol release. Histology revealed a 34% alteration in adipocyte appearance. Collagen synthesis increased by 31% following TriPollar treatment. A significant average reduction of 2.4 cm was measured on the treated thighs. On the control thighs a lesser, non-significant reduction was found. Average abdominal laxity was reduced from 1.4 at baseline to 0.8 following treatments. A certain reduction was measured in the abdomen circumferences, although it was not significant. The reported results demonstrate the safety and efficacy of the new TriPollar home-use device for body contouring and skin tightening. Treatment may lead to discrete circumference reduction and moderate laxity improvement.