Wandee Rungseevijitprapa

Wound healing in cosmetological and aesthetic surgery extends beyond tissue closure to achieving rapid regeneration, minimal scarring, and restoration of functional skin architecture. However, conventional wound care strategies inadequately regulate the complex wound microenvironment required for optimal cosmetic outcomes, leading to prolonged healing times and suboptimal aesthetic results, which can negatively impact patient satisfaction and increase the risk of complications. Phytochemicals exhibit multifunctional bioactivities, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and pro-regenerative effects, but their clinical translation faces obstacles due to poor solubility, stability, and bioavailability. Nanotechnology-based delivery systems have emerged as a critical enabling strategy to overcome these limitations. This narrative review provides an updated, mechanistically integrated synthesis of phytochemical-loaded nanotherapeutics, including polymeric nanoparticles, nanohydrogels, nanofibers, and lipid- and vesicle-based systems, with a specific focus on their roles in modulating key wound-healing pathways, such as inflammation resolution, angiogenesis, collagen remodelling, and re-epithelialization. Evidence from preclinical studies consistently demonstrates that nano-enabled phytochemicals enhance therapeutic efficacy, improve skin penetration, and contribute to superior cosmetic outcomes, particularly by reducing fibrosis and scar formation. However, critical gaps remain, including limited high-quality clinical evidence, a lack of standardized formulation design, variability in reported outcomes, and unresolved concerns regarding long-term safety and regulatory translation. Taken together, the key insight of this review is that phytochemical-loaded nanotherapeutics represent a promising but still transitional strategy, biologically compelling at the preclinical level yet clinically under-validated. Bridging this gap requires rigorously designed clinical trials, quantitative outcome reporting, and balanced regulatory frameworks. Advancing these areas will be essential to translate nano-enabled phytochemicals from experimental systems into reliable, evidence-based solutions for cosmetological wound management.

Kaempferia galanga Linn. (KG), a member of the family Zingiberaceae, is native to India, and commonly found in China, Indonesia, and Thailand. It has been used as a food condiment, folk medicine, and to relieve skin diseases due to its biological activities. However, its anti-aging effect has not yet been investigated. In this study, the rhizome of Kaempferia galanga Linn was extracted with solvents of different polarities (deionized water, absolute ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane). Phytochemical screening assay, total flavonoid and total phenolic contents, antioxidant activity (DPPH^•, FRAP, ABTS ^+• assay), anti-aging activity (anti-collagenase, anti-elastase), and cell cytotoxicity on human dermal fibroblasts were investigated. The outcomes revealed that the extraction in highly polar solvents resulted in a high extract yield. Flavonoids, phenolic, and terpenoid compounds were detected in KG extracts using all extraction solvents. However, deionized water as a solvent exhibited the lowest level of flavonoids and phenolics, as compared to the other solvents. The highest total flavonoid and phenolic contents were achieved through extraction with absolute ethanol and ethyl acetate, respectively. Interestingly, the extract obtained with absolute ethanol exhibited the most potent antioxidant activities (the IC₅₀ value of DPPH^• was 0.612 mg/mL, the FRAP value was 62.79 mmol of Fe²⁺/g of extract, and TEAC value was 9.21 mg TE/g of extract in ABTS^+• assay) and anti-aging properties (the percentages of collagenase inhibitory and elastase were 71.83%, and 66.35%, respectively). Regarding cell cytotoxicity, both KG extracts obtained with deionized water and absolute ethanol showed lower toxicity on human dermal fibroblasts compared to those obtained with ethyl acetate and hexane. Ethanol-based KG extract demonstrated a good antioxidant, anti-aging capacity and is considered safe for cosmeceutical products focused on anti-aging applications.

Aging is a time-dependent complex biological process of organisms with gradual deterioration of the anatomical and physiological functions. The role of gut microbiota is inevitable in the aging process. Probiotic interventions improve gut homeostasis and support healthy aging by enhancing beneficial species and microbial biodiversity in older adults. The present preliminary clinical trial delves into the impact of an 8-week Lactobacillus rhamnosus intervention (10 × 10⁹ CFU per day) on the glycaemic index, lipid profile, and microbiome of elderly subjects. Body weight, body fat, fasting blood glucose, total cholesterol, triglyceride, high-density lipoprotein, and low-density lipoprotein (LDL) are assessed at baseline (Week 0) and after treatment (Week 8) in placebo and probiotic groups. Gaussian regression analysis highlights a significant improvement in LDL cholesterol in the probiotic group (p = 0.045). Microbiome analysis reveals numeric changes in taxonomic abundance at various levels. At the phylum level, Proteobacteria increases its relative frequency (RF) from 14.79 ± 5.58 at baseline to 23.46 ± 8.02 at 8 weeks, though statistically insignificant (p = 0.100). Compared to the placebo group, probiotic supplementations significantly increased the proteobacteria abundance. Genus-level analysis indicates changes in the abundance of several microbes, including Escherichia-Shigella, Akkermansia, and Bacteroides, but only Butyricimonas showed a statistically significant level of reduction in its abundance. Probiotic supplementations significantly altered the Escherichia-Shigella and Sutterella abundance compared to the placebo group. At the species level, Bacteroides vulgatus substantially increases after probiotic treatment (p = 0.021). Alpha and beta diversity assessments depict subtle shifts in microbial composition. The study has limitations, including a small sample size, short study duration, single-strain probiotic use, and lack of long-term follow-up. Despite these constraints, the study provides valuable preliminary insights into the multifaceted impact of L. rhamnosus on elderly subjects. Further detailed studies are required to define the beneficial effect of L. rhamnosus on the health status of elderly subjects.

Sea buckthorn (SB) (Elaeagnus rhamnoides (L.) A. Nelson) is rich in flavonoids, phenolic compounds, anthocyanins, carotenoids, and phytosterol. Its phytochemicals exhibit various biological activities, such as antioxidant, immunomodulatory and anti-carcinogenic activities. SB also helps prevent the development of wrinkles and protects the skin’s surface from UV rays. The purpose of the present study was to develop and characterize an SB oil (SBO)-loaded nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) for improved skin hydration. The response surface methodology (RSM) and central composite design (CCD) were employed to optimize the influencing factors (wax percentage, surfactant percentage, and PEG400 percentage in the surfactant) to achieve the desirable qualities in SBO-NLCs. The optimum (minimum) size of SBO-NLCs (105.26 nm) was obtained with a combination of 2.5% wax, 7.5% surfactant, and 30% PEG400 in the surfactant. A narrow polydispersity index (PDI; 0.16), relatively low zeta potential (ZP; −15.63 mV), and high entrapment efficiency (EE; 90.88%) were observed in this study. Reduced quadratic and reduced 2FI models were adapted to predict conditions to attain the optimum size and PDI of SBO-NLCs, respectively. ZP and EE were predicted with the help of a reduced cubic model. All of the predicted models were statistically significant. Differential scanning calorimetry results suggested that the SBO-NLCs had less crystallinity and therefore reduced the rate of drug expulsion from the inner core of the NLCs. A noticeable level of occlusion effect was observed in the SBO-NLCs. The SBO-NLCs showed a faster vitamin E (biomarker for the drug) release rate into the skin within 24 h, and the released vitamin E level after 48 h was significantly higher than that for the free SBO. Additionally, SBO-NLCs delivered vitamin E into the inner skin significantly (22.73 ± 1.67 µg/cm² of skin). In conclusion, the SBO-NLC is a potential delivery system that can be used to prevent skin water loss and improve skin hydration. Further investigations, such as drug stability and safety evaluations, are required prior to commercialization for human use.

Momordica charantia (M. charantia) is rich in flavonoids, which possess a strong antioxidant capacity and may help prevent hair loss. This study aims to develop the microemulsion of M. charantia with antioxidant activity and 5α-reductase (5aR) inhibitory activity. The total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activity, and 5aR inhibitory activity of ethanolic and aqueous extracts of the fruit were investigated. The preparation of M. charantia extract-loaded microemulsion (MELM) was optimized and characterized the MELM. The aqueous extract of M. charantia fruit flesh displayed a TPC of 780.75 ± 24.82 mg Gallic acid equivalence/g of extract. ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid), DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl), and nitric oxide (NO) radical scavenging activities were observed in all the extracts. About 0.461 ± 0.003 mg finasteride equivalence/g of extract of 5aR inhibitory activity was detected in the aqueous extract of the inner tissue of M. charantia fruit. Based on NO radical scavenging and 5aR inhibitory activity, an aqueous extract of the inner tissue (pericarp with seed) of M. charantia fruit was used to prepare the MELM. The MELM was prepared using a different ratio of tween 80 and ethanol as Smix. The results showed that the 1:1 ratio of tween 80: ethanol produced microemulsion of an optimum size, zeta potential, and polydispersity index. The MELM samples were stored at 5, 30, and 40 °C for 12 weeks, and the stability was assessed. The results revealed that the size, zeta potential, and polydispersity index of the formulated MELM remained unchanged during the investigated time. This study primarily reports the 5aR inhibitory activity of M. charantia extract and the development of microemulsion. The prepared MELM could be further developed into cosmetic or pharmacological preparations to manage hair loss.

The study aimed to develop the finasteride-loaded proniosome (FLP) to enhance the transfollicular delivery of finasteride (FN). The response surface methodology (RSM) combined with central composite design (CCD) with three independent variables (FN concentrations, total lipid content, and cholesterol content) was used to optimize the FLP preparation. The particles size, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency, and drug loading capacity of the FLP were analyzed. The transfollicular delivery of the optimum formulation was investigated in vitro. In vivo hair growth stimulation study was performed on C57BL/6Mlac mice dorsal areas. The Draize primary skin irritation test for erythema and edema was performed in the New Zealand white rabbit skin. The optimum FLP consists of 5.0 mM of FN, 10.1 mM of total lipid content, and 50.0% of the cholesterol in the total lipid. The prepared proniosome delivered the FN significantly (p < 0.05), compared to the naked finasteride solution in a dose- and time-dependent manner. The FLP treatment significantly increases the number and size of hair follicles in a dose-dependent manner. The efficiency of 1% FLP was comparable to the 2% minoxidil solution. The FLP exhibited no skin irritation after 72 h. Therefore, the results demonstrated that the FLP could stimulate hair growth via a transfollicular delivery system.

Despite the known beneficial impacts of estrogen used as hormone replacement therapy to ameliorate signs of skin aging in postmenopausal women, its compliance rates are low. A significant amount of estrogen may be absorbed into the blood circulation and can lead to systemic actions. Soy isoflavone exhibits biological activities similar to synthetic estrogen because it is a heterocyclic phenolic compound. The disadvantage of most topical ingredients based on isoflavone is that they contain biologically inactive glycoside forms, which must be converted to a readily absorbed aglycone for the topical application. The purposes of this study were to develop niosomes-loaded Aspergillus oryzae-fermented soybean extract (FSE) to enhance skin absorption with proven systemic side effect compared to estrogen application. Skin hydration and viscoelasticity of 75 days post-ovariectomized (OVX) Wistar rats following 84-day topical treatment with various tested gel formulations containing fermented soybean extract (FSE) were evaluated. The tested formulations were gel + FSE nanoniosomes, gel + FSE microniosomes, gel + FSE (200 µg FSE/9 cm²/rat), gel + blank nanoniosomes (a negative control), and gel + 17β-estradiol (E2) nanoniosomes (a positive control, 20 µg E2/9 cm²/rat). Changes in vaginal cornifications and weights of uteri, livers, and kidneys in the OVX rats and signs of primary skin irritation in the rabbits were evaluated for their toxicities. Results showed that FSE-loaded nanoniosomes improved the skin hydration and viscoelasticity better than gel + FSE microniosomes and gel + FSE, respectively, but lower than those of gel + E2 nanoniosomes (p < 0.05). Unlike all gel + E2 nanoniosomes, the FSE formulations showed no changes in vaginal cells and weights of uteri, livers, and kidneys and no signs of skin irritation. In conclusion, The FSE niosome-based gels should be promising candidates for delivering phytoestrogens against signs of skin aging with no systemic toxicities.

The aim of this study was to develop lipid-based nanoparticles that entrapped a high concentration of capsaicin (0.25%) from a capsicum oleoresin extract. The solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) were strategically fabricated to entrap capsaicin without a hazardous solvent. Optimized nanosize lipid particles with high capsaicin entrapment and loading capacity were achieved from pair-wise comparison of the solid lipid mixtures consisting of fatty esters and fatty alcohols, representing small and large crystal-structure molecules combined with a compatible liquid lipid and surfactants (crystallinity index = 3%). This report was focused on selectively captured capsaicin from oleoresin in amorphous chili extract-loaded NLCs with 85.27% ± 0.12% entrapment efficiency (EE) and 8.53% ± 0.01% loading capacity (LC). The particle size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential of chili extract-loaded NLCs were 148.50 ± 2.94 nm, 0.12 ± 0.03, and −29.58 ± 1.37 mV, respectively. The favorable zero-order kinetics that prolonged capsaicin release and the significantly faster transdermal penetration of the NLC attributed to the reduction in skin irritation of the concentrated capsaicin NLCs, as illustrated by the in vitro EpiDerm^TM three-dimensional human skin irritation test and hen’s egg test chorioallantoic membrane assay (HET-CAM).

The work aimed to develop Centella asiatica extract-loaded niosomes (CAE-Nio) and surface modified niosomes by hyaluronic acid (CAE-Nio-HA) to enhance transdermal penetration. Niosome formulations were prepared by film hydration method using Tween 60 and Span 60 as nonionic surfactants, cholesterol and various CAE contents. Various HA concentrations were investigated to obtain optimized CAE-Nio enhancing further skin penetration. Results showed that niosomes prepared from Tween 60 yielded suitable CAE encapsulated niosomes with mean particle size and zeta-potential of 155 nm and −15 mV, respectively. The niosomes exhibited high encapsulation efficiency (%EE) and drug loading capacity (%DL) of 71–77% and 3–7%, respectively. Incorporating HA to niosome decreased %DL and caused larger particle size and increased zeta-potential in a dose dependent manner while %EE remained unaffected. The sustained-release behaviour of CAE from all niosomes was under a diffusion controlled mechanism. Asiaticoside, a relatively polar compound from CAE-Nio-HA could penetrate through the stratum corneum and dermis in a larger amount than from CAE-Nio and CAE solution. CAE-Nio-HA formulations showed good stability under low temperature (4 °C and 25 °C) for periods longer than 4 months. In conclusion, the developed Nio-HA is a promising delivery system for asiaticoside to enhanced dermal absorption, permeation and accumulation in viable epidermis and dermis layers. This system can also be applied to other hydrophilic natural active compounds.