Pao-Hsien Huang

Various whitening cosmetics are available in the market, usually containing active whitening ingredients. However, most of the reported active ingredients have low dermal penetration due to their lipophilic structure. Therefore, it is necessary to develop effective whitening agents and novel formulations to address this. In previous studies, natural compounds such as chalcones have shown inhibitory effects on tyrosinase. However, most chalcone compounds have the disadvantage of poor water solubility, which restricts their dermal absorption. Flavokawain C (FKC) is a natural chalcone obtained from the root of the kava tree (Piper methysticum) and can also be obtained through organic synthesis. Since FKC is a chalcone, it is also water-insoluble, showing poor dermal absorption. In this study, electrospinning technology was used to develop FKC nanofibers (FKCNFs) to improve FKC’s physicochemical properties. The results showed that FKCNFs significantly improved water solubility and percutaneous absorption. Based on the results of in vitro experiments with B16F10 melanoma cells, 10 µM FKCNFs repressed the expressions of melanogenesis-related proteins MITF and TRP2. Furthermore, cosmetic safety assessment revealed that FKCNFs displayed a good margin of safety. This study suggests that FKCNFs have great potential as an effective active ingredient for whitening cosmetics.

Airborne particulate matter (PM) is one of the indicators of air pollution, and it is also the main factor causing oxidative stress in the skin. Oleanolic acid (OA), a natural terpenoid compound, effectively inhibited PM-induced skin aging; however, OA has poor water solubility and skin absorption, which limit its application in medicines and cosmetics. The aim of this study was to prepare oleanolic acid nanofibers (OAnf) and evaluate the effects of OA and OAnf in PM-treated keratinocytes. The results showed that OA dissolved in dissolved in dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) attenuated PM-induced reactive oxygen species overproduction, stress-activated protein kinase/Jun-amino-terminal kinase (SAPK/JNK) activation, and the expressions of inflammatory and skin-aging-related proteins. In addition, the nanofiber process of OA effectively improved the water solubility of OA more than 99,000-fold through changing its physicochemical properties, including a surface area increase, particle size reduction, amorphous transformation, and hydrogen bonding formation with excipients. The skin penetration ability of OAnf was consistently over 10-fold higher than that of OA. Moreover, when dissolved in PBS, OAnf displayed superior antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-skin aging activities in PM-treated keratinocytes than OA. In conclusion, our findings suggest that OAnf could be a topical antioxidant formulation to attenuate skin problems caused by PM.

Antioxidants from plant extracts are often used as additives in skincare products to prevent skin problems induced by environmental pollutants. Artocarpus communis methanol extract (ACM) has many biological effects, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, and photoprotective effects; however, the poor water solubility of raw ACM has limited its applications in medicine and cosmetics. Topical antioxidant nanoparticles are one of the drug-delivery systems for overcoming the poor water solubility of antioxidants for increasing their skin penetration. The present study demonstrated that ACM-loaded hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and polyvinylpyrrolidone K30 nanoparticles (AHP) were successfully prepared and could effectively increase the skin penetration of ACM through changing the physicochemical characteristics of raw ACM, including reducing the particle size, increasing the surface area, and inducing amorphous transformation. Our results also revealed that AHP had significantly better antioxidant activity than raw ACM for preventing photocytotoxicity because the AHP formulation increased the cellular uptake of the ACM in UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocytes. In conclusion, our results suggest that AHP may be used as a good topical antioxidant nanoparticle for delivering ACM into deep layers of the skin for preventing UVB-induced skin problems.

Resveratrol is a naturally occurring polyphenol compound which has been shown to possess antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. However, its pharmaceutical applications are limited by its poor water solubility. In this study, we used electrospinning technology to synthesize nanofibers of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HPBCD) loaded with resveratrol. We used X-ray diffractometry to analyze crystalline structure, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy to determine intermolecular hydrogen bonding, antioxidant assays to measure antioxidant activity, and Franz diffusion cells to evaluate skin penetration. Our results showed that the aqueous solubility of resveratrol nanofibers was greatly improved (by more than 20,000-fold) compared to the pure compound. Analysis of physicochemical properties demonstrated that following nanofiber formation, resveratrol was converted from a crystalline to amorphous structure, and resveratrol formed new intermolecular bonds with PVP and HPBCD. Moreover, resveratrol nanofibers showed good antioxidant activity. In addition, the skin penetration ability of resveratrol in the nanofiber formulation was greater than that of pure resveratrol. Furthermore, resveratrol nanofibers suppressed particulate matter (PM)-induced expression of inflammatory proteins (COX-2 and MMP-9) in HaCaT keratinocytes. Therefore, resveratrol-loaded nanofibers can effectively improve the solubility and physicochemical properties of resveratrol, and may have potential applications as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory formulation for topical skin application.

As is known, many antioxidants from plant extracts have been used as additives in skincare products to prevent skin damage following overexposure to environmental pollutants. 7,3′,4′-trihydroxyisoflavone (734THIF), an isoflavone compound, possesses various biological activities, including antioxidant, antityrosinase, photodamage protection, and anticancer effects. Unfortunately, 734THIF has poor water solubility, which limits its skin penetration and absorption, and subsequently influences its biological activity. The aim of the present study was to investigate the mechanisms for the improvement in water solubility and skin penetration of 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HPBCD) inclusion complex with 734THIF (5-7HP). We also determined its photostability, antipollutant activity in HaCaT keratinocytes, and moisturizing effect in human subjects. Our results showed that 734THIF was embedded into the lipophilic inner cavity of HPBCD and its water solubility and skin penetration were thereby improved through amorphous transformation, surface area enhancement, and hydrogen bonding formation between 734THIF and HPBCD. In addition, 5-7HP inhibited PM-induced ROS generation and then downregulated ROS-mediated COX-2 and MMP9 production and AQP-3 consumption by inhibiting the phosphorylation of MAPKs. Consequently, we suggest that 5-7HP is a safe and photostable topical ingredient to enhance the skin penetration of 734THIF and skin hydration, and therefore 5-7HP may be used as an antipollutant additive in skin care products.