Sung-Min Park

A novel Bacillus subtilis HB-31 strain was isolated from Gotjawal Wetland in Jeju Island, Republic of Korea. A mucus substance produced by this strain was identified as high-molecular-weight poly-γ-glutamic acid (γ-PGA) using NMR, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and size-exclusion chromatography/multi-angle light scattering analyses. We evaluated whether γ-PGA strengthened the skin barrier using keratinocytes and a reconstructed skin model. In keratinocytes, γ-PGA treatment dose-dependently increased the mRNA expression of skin barrier markers, including filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin, serine palmitoyl transferase, fatty acid synthase, and 3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl coenzyme A reductase. γ-PGA also enhanced hyaluronic acid synthesis by upregulating hyaluronic acid synthase-1, -2, and -3 mRNA levels and promoted aquaporin 3 expression, which is involved in skin hydration. In the reconstructed skin model, topical application of 1% γ-PGA elevated filaggrin, involucrin, CD44, and aquaporin 3 expression, compared to the control. These results suggest that the newly isolated HB-31 can be used as a commercial production system of high-molecular-weight γ-PGA, which can serve as an effective ingredient for strengthening the skin barrier and improving moisture retention. Further research is needed to explore the long-term effects of γ-PGA on skin health and its application in treating skin conditions.

A novel Bacillus subtilis HB-31 strain was isolated from Gotjawal Wetland in Jeju Island, Republic of Korea. A mucus substance produced by this strain was identified as high-molecular weight poly-γ-glutamic acid (γ-PGA) using NMR, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and size-exclusion chromatography/multi-angle light scattering analyses. We evaluated whether γ-PGA improved the skin barrier using keratinocytes and reconstructed skin models. In keratinocytes, γ-PGA treatment increased mRNA expression of skin barrier markers, including filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin, serine palmitoyl transferase, fatty acid synthase, and 3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl coenzyme A reductase, dose-dependently. γ-PGA also enhanced hyaluronic acid synthesis by upregulating hyaluronic acid synthase-1,-2,and -3 mRNA levels and promoted aquaporin 3 expression, involved in skin hydration. In reconstructed skin models, 1% γ-PGA topical application elevated filaggrin, involucrin, CD44, and aquaporin 3 expression compared to the control. These results suggest that the newly isolated HB-31 can be used as a commercial production system of high-molecular weight γ-PGA, which can be an effective in-gredient for improving skin barrier and moisture. Further research is needed to explore the long-term effects of γ-PGA on skin health and its application in treating skin disorders.

Side streams and byproducts of food are established sources of natural ingredients in cosmetics. In the present study, we obtained upcycled low-molecular-weight anionic peptides (LMAPs) using byproducts of the post-yuzu-juicing process by employing an enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. For the first time, we isolated anionic peptides less than 500 Da in molecular weight from Citrus junos TANAKA seeds via hydrolysis using this enzyme. The protective effect of LMAPs against UVR-induced photoaging was evaluated using a reconstructed skin tissue (RST) model and keratinocytes. The LMAPs protected the keratinocytes by scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species and by reducing the levels of paracrine cytokines (IL-6 and TNF-α) in UVR (UVA 2 J/cm² and UVB 15 mJ/cm²)-irradiated keratinocytes. Additionally, the increase in melanin synthesis and TRP-2 expression in RST caused by UVR was significantly inhibited by LMAP treatment. This treatment strongly induced the expression of filaggrin and laminin-5 in UVR-irradiated RST. It also increased type I collagen expression in the dermal region and in fibroblasts in vitro. These results suggest that a hydrolytic system using the enzyme derived from Bacillus sp. can be used for the commercial production of LMAPs from food byproducts and that these LMAPs can be effective ingredients for improving photoaging-induced skin diseases.

In this study, caviar (sturgeon eggs) was used to elucidate its roles in adiponectin production and skin anti-aging. Recently, caviar has been largely used not only as a nutritional food, but also in cosmetic products. In particular, it has been reported that docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), as one of the main phospholipid components of caviar extract, induces intracellular lipid accumulation and the expression of adiponectin in adipocytes. Although adipocytes are well known to be associated with the skin dermis by secreting various factors (e.g., adiponectin), the effects of caviar extract and DHA on the skin are not well studied. Here, we demonstrate the effects of caviar extract and DHA on adipocyte differentiation and adiponectin production, resulting in a preventive role in UV-irradiated skin aging. Caviar extract and DHA enhanced adipocyte differentiation and promoted the synthesis of transcription factors controlling adipocyte differentiation and adiponectin. In addition, the mRNA expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) were decreased in UVB-irradiated Hs68 fibroblasts that were cultured in conditioned medium from caviar extract or DHA-treated differentiated adipocytes. Taken together, these results indicate that caviar extract and DHA induce adipocyte differentiation and adiponectin production, thereby inhibiting UVB-induced premature skin aging via the suppression of MMP-1 production.

7,8-dimethoxycoumarin (DMC, C11H10O4), a natural coumarin compound, is present in Citrus plants including Citrus decumana and grapefruit. It is known to have protective effects on the kidneys against Cisplatin and ischemia-reperfusion injury. However, the underlying mechanisms of its inhibitory effects on skin inflammation have not been investigated in vitro. Tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α is known to be one of the main causative agents of skin inflammation. It induces pro-inflammatory cytokines and chemokines by activating nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling. In this study, we investigated the inhibitory effect of DMC on the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines and chemokines in TNF-α-treated human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. Pretreatment with DMC inhibited TNF-α-treated cytokines (interleukin 6; IL-6) and chemokines (IL-8 and monocyte chemoattractant protein-1). In addition, DMC significantly inhibited TNF-α-treated NF-κB activation and phosphorylation of MAPKs, such as c-Jun N-terminal kinases (JNK) and extracellular-signal-regulated kinase (ERK). These results suggest that DMC may elicit an anti-inflammatory response by suppressing TNF-α-treated activation of NF-κB and MAPK pathways in keratinocytes. Hence, it might be a useful therapeutic drug against skin inflammatory diseases.

This study was carried out to investigate the antimelanogenic effects of a Polygonum tinctorium flower extract obtained using red nuruk, a traditional Jeju barley-based fermentation starter. We also studied the mechanism of action of the P. tinctorium fermented flower extract (PTFFE) in mouse melanoma cells (B16F10). Cells were treated with various concentrations (62.5, 125 and 250 μg/mL) of PTFFE and the results showed that PTFFE significantly decreased the melanin content and tyrosinase activity without being cytotoxic. In addition, PTFFE strongly inhibited the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 2 by decreasing the expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, as shown by a western blot assay. Furthermore, PTFFE inhibited melanogenesis via upregulation of the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and protein kinase B, also known as AKT. We also used inhibitors such as PD98059 (a specific ERK inhibitor) or LY294002 (an AKT inhibitor) to determine whether the signaling pathways are involved. High-performance liquid chromatography fingerprinting showed the presence of a quercetin glucoside (isoquercitrin) and quercetin in PTFFE. To test the potential for PTFFE application as a cosmetic material, we also performed a primary skin irritation test on human skin. In this assay, PTFFE did not induce any adverse reactions at the treatment dose. Based on these results, we suggest that PTFFE may be considered a potential antimelanogenesis candidate for topical applications.

Overproduction and accumulation of melanin in the skin can lead to pigmentation disorders, such as freckles and melasma. Many researchers are studying the regulation of melanogenesis in the skin with the aim of developing whitening cosmetics. In this study, bioactivity-guided separation of the hexane fraction of Schisandra chinensis (Turcz.) Baillon extract yielded five major compounds, β-chamigrenal, α-ylangenol, gomisin N, gomisin A, and schisandrin. The structures were identified by using ¹H-NMR and ¹³C-NMR spectroscopy and comparing the spectral data with published data. Melanogenesis inhibitory activity assay in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 mouse melanoma cells revealed that gomisin N was the active component and significantly inhibited melanin synthesis in a concentration-dependent manner. Thus, we evaluated the mechanism underlying its anti-melanogenic effect. Gomisin N inhibited the expression of tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in B16F10 cells, while it did not affect cAMP response element binding protein (CREB) phosphorylation. Additionally, gomisin N activated AKT phosphorylation, which inhibits MITF expression. Thus, our results strongly suggest that the active compound, gomisin N, has potential for use in cosmetics to reduce hyperpigmentation.