Current Organizations / Institutes

The organizations/institutes from the scholar's latest article


Marta Marzec has a total of 40 co-authors. Here are the top co-authors by number of shared publications:


Latest Publications

  • Open Access

    Characteristics of Biodegradable Car Shampoos in Terms of Performance and Environmental Properties

    by Bartosz Woźniak, Marta Marzec, Mateusz Kempiński, Agata Wawrzyńczak, Izabela Nowak

    The developing chemical industry increasingly emphasizes environmentally friendly products. As consumers’ environmental awareness grows, so do their expectations of cleaning products, which must not only maintain high cleaning efficacy but also be safe for both humans and the environment. However, previous studies have not evaluated biodegradability potential alongside chemical integrity, preservation efficacy, packaging stability, interfacial performance, and consumer acceptance within a unified framework. The aim of this study was to analyze two proprietary formulations of car shampoo concentrates. Both products were assessed for basic physicochemical parameters and analyzed using chromatographic techniques, which revealed no presence of by-products or harmful substances. Subsequently, compatibility tests were conducted with PET bottles, monitoring mass loss, pH, viscosity, turbidity, and fluorescent polymer content over several months. In addition, surface tension analysis was performed using the Wilhelmy plate method, and biodegradability tests were conducted in accordance with OECD 301B in an aquatic environment, yielding 100% potential biodegradation results for both shampoos. Finally, a consumer analysis was also carried out, based on which a formulation with more favorable performance properties was selected. The integrated results provide system-level evidence that environmental performance can coexist with formulation robustness and consumer usability.

  • Open Access

    Barrier Function and Biophysical Effects of 0.104% and 0.247% Retinol Creams in Mature Facial Skin: A Prospective Study

    by Iwona Pordąb, Julia Cieślawska, Michał Gackowski, Michał J. Kowalczyk, Małgorzata Pawłowska, Justyna Gornowicz-Porowska, Tomasz Osmałek, Marta Marzec, Izabela Nowak, Anna Kroma-Szal, et al.

    Retinol, a bioactive small molecule of the vitamin A family, contributes epidermal and dermal tissue repair through retinoic acid receptor γ (RARγ)/retinoid X receptor (RXR) receptor-mediated transcriptional regulation of keratinocyte differentiation, extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling, and barrier restoration. However, the relationship between applied concentration, tissue-level regenerative outcomes, and tolerability remains incompletely characterized. This prospective, randomized, single-blind study compared biophysical effects and tolerance of two retinol concentrations in EU-compliant facial creams, high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)-verified as 0.104% and 0.247% (w/w). Thirty-eight women aged 40–61 years (Fitzpatrick phototypes II–III) participated across three independent sub-studies: 28 were randomized to either concentration for 12 weeks; 5 underwent split-face ultrasound imaging (0.247% versus retinol-free control) for 8 weeks; and 5 participated in a tape stripping sub-study quantifying stratum corneum interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1α) and interleukin-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1ra) by ELISA before and after 6 weeks of 0.247% retinol treatment. Main cohort assessments included transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration, melanin, erythema, pH, sebum, biomechanical parameters, and wrinkle grading. Both concentrations significantly improved barrier parameters—hydration, TEWL, brightness, pH, and sebum—with no inter-group differences. In the ultrasound sub-group, 0.247% retinol increased epidermal thickness (+12.4 μm), epidermal density (+3.84%), and dermal density (+1.81%) versus control, consistent with ECM reorganization and epidermal stratification. Biomechanical parameters showed no significant changes, consistent with retinol’s remodeling timeline. Consumer assessment indicated comparable efficacy; 0.247% demonstrated superior smoothing but higher erythema incidence. In the tape stripping sub-study, IL-1α decreased in all participants (median: 25.1 → 13.2 picograms per tape [pg/Tape]; 5/5 concordant), while IL-1ra increased in 4/5 participants (median: 352.8 → 1403.1 picograms per three sequential tapes [pg/3sT]), indicating a directionally consistent shift in the IL-1α/IL-1ra balance; these results are exploratory and require replication in larger cohorts. These findings collectively support clinically meaningful barrier restoration and structural remodeling within current EU safety limits (Commission Regulation EU 2024/996), with 0.104% offering a favorable efficacy-to-tolerability profile for initial therapy.

  • Open Access

    Instrumental In Vivo Assessment of Cosmetic Emulsions Containing Platelet-Rich Fibrin (PRF) or Recombinant Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF): A Pilot Compatibility Study

    by Marzena Liliana Wyganowska, Filip Tyliszczak, Marta Marzec, Sylwia Klewin-Steinböck, Izabela Nowak

    Background: This study evaluates short-term skin compatibility and biophysical changes in new cosmetic preparations containing PRF and EGF, conducted through in vivo studies. Material and Methods: The study involved 20 healthy volunteers (aged 20–40) who received three identically packaged creams to be applied for a period of four weeks to specific facial areas: formulation 1: base formulation (control); formulation 2: base formulation human epidermal growth factor (EGF) loaded; and formulation 3: base formulation platelet-rich fibrin (PRF) loaded. Skin assessments were conducted at baseline (week 0) and at weeks 1, 2, and 4. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration using corneometry to determine the moisture content of the stratum corneum, skin elasticity using a cutometer to measure the skin’s ability to return to its original state after deformation, and dermal bioavailability were measured. EGF concentration in the stratum corneum will be measured using the tape-stripping method followed by HPLC (high-performance liquid chromatography) analysis. Results: A significant decrease in TEWL was observed for all tested formulations (24%, 37%, and 34%, for formulations 1, 2, and 3, respectively), indicating improved skin barrier function. Formulation 3 showed the highest increase in skin hydration (by 95%), followed by formulation 2. Both formulations 2 and 3 demonstrated improvements in skin elasticity, with formulation 3 showing the greatest enhancement. EGF concentration in the stratum corneum increased over the four-week period, reaching equilibrium with the product concentration by week four. Conclusions: The in vivo instrumental compatibility studies confirmed that the new cosmetic formulations were well tolerated and associated with short-term improvement in selected skin parameters.


  • Open Access

    Antioxidant Constituents of Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) as Functional Raw Materials for Cosmetic Applications

    by Magdalena Dzienisik, Marta Marzec, Izabela Nowak

    Humulus lupulus L. (hops) is best known for its application in the brewing industry; however, growing scientific interest has revealed its high content of natural antioxidants, including flavonoids and polyphenols. These compounds exhibit pronounced anti-inflammatory activity, positioning hops as a promising plant-derived ingredient for cosmetic use. The present study evaluates the antioxidant properties of Humulus lupulus L. (HL) extract and cosmetic formulations loaded with hop-based active substances. Antioxidant capacity was determined using ABTS, Folin–Ciocâlteu, and FRAP methods. The hop extract showed limited free radical scavenging activity and reducing power; however, these results still confirm its antioxidant potential. Importantly, cosmetic emulsions enriched with the HL extract maintained substantial antioxidant activity, demonstrating successful incorporation and stability of the bioactive compounds within the formulations. Physicochemical stability tests, including pH monitoring and visual evaluation during storage, indicated good stability under different conditions. In vivo studies confirmed the effectiveness of cosmetics containing HL extracts as natural anti-irritant agents, demonstrated by a 10% reduction in erythema after a three-week application period. These findings provide evidence supporting the use of Humulus lupulus L. in the development of plant-based cosmetic products designed to improve the health of skin prone to irritation.


  • Open Access

    In Vivo Characterisation of Skin Response to Sustainable Car Cleaning Products

    by Bartosz Woźniak, Marta Marzec, Agata Wawrzyńczak, Izabela Nowak

    Synthetic surfactants are currently the most commonly used agents in human cosmetics and household chemicals. However, there are increasingly frequent reports of cases showing the negative impact of these surfactants on human skin. Out of concern for users, many companies, including those originating in the automotive chemicals industry, are increasingly turning to surfactants that are more dermatologically friendly and non-toxic to the environment. The following study aimed to examine two custom-developed car shampoo concentrates based on highly biodegradable raw materials and to analyse their impact on selected skin parameters. The research included semi-contact patch tests and in vivo instrumental tests on a group of volunteers, measuring the following parameters: skin moisturising, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pH, roughness, smoothness, and skin scaliness. Both products showed very good dermatological tolerance, without causing drastic or long-lasting changes in selected skin parameters. The results of the tests confirmed that both car products can represent a safe alternative for everyday use, in accordance with the principles of green chemistry.

  • Open Access

    A Study of the Potential of Solidago virgaurea Extract as a Raw Material for Cosmetic Macroemulsions

    by Marta Marzec, Grażyna Kaszczyk, Witold Sujka, Izabela Nowak

    The use of Solidago virgaurea extract as a raw material for cosmetics production fits the eco-tendency prevalent in the cosmetic industry for many years now perfectly. The study reported in this paper included an evaluation of the potential of the above-mentioned plant extract as a natural cosmetic ingredient applied in the form of cosmetic macroemulsions. The physicochemical parameters (pH, viscosity, particle size distribution) and physical stability (multiple light scattering) of the cosmetic formulations containing Solidago virgaurea (1.0 wt.%) were studied. An in vivo study was carried out on a group of 20 female volunteers. The results showed a high compatibility of the tested extract with the other components in the macroemulsion in the form of a serum for the body, which was the formulation containing Sorbitan Stearate as an emulsifier. Analysis of the results revealed a relation between the compatibility of the investigated herbal extract with the components of the cosmetic base and the effectiveness of this extract as an active substance. As a result of an improvement in the application parameters, an over 70% increase in the level of epidermis moisturization was observed along with other beneficial changes in the parameters of skin macrorelief and topography.


  • Open Access

    Retinol and Oligopeptide-Loaded Lipid Nanocarriers as Effective Raw Material in Anti-Acne and Anti-Aging Therapies

    by Małgorzata Pawłowska, Marta Marzec, Waldemar Jankowiak, Izabela Nowak

    The use of lipid nanocarriers as components of cosmetic formulations may provide an opportunity to fully exploit the beneficial properties of pentapeptide-18 and retinol while reducing the undesirable effects that occur during retinoid therapy. This study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness of semi-solid formulations enriched with retinol and oligopeptide-loaded lipid nanocarriers. Solid lipid nanoparticles were produced using a high-shear homogenization method. The work included physicochemical characterization of the cosmetic products, and evaluation of their stability as well as their efficacy. The resulting semi-solid preparations were determined to be stable regardless of their storage temperature. No effect of the presence of lipid nanoparticles on the shelf-life stability of the cosmetic products was observed. A temperature of 25 °C was considered the recommended storage temperature for the tested semi-solid formulations. Beneficial effects of the cosmetic products were proven (in vivo study on volunteers), i.e., a significant reduction in the level of sebum secretion (anti-acne therapy) and a decrease in the number of facial wrinkles (anti-aging therapy). In addition, the protective properties of the lipid nanoparticles themselves against the skin were confirmed, reducing the irritating effect of retinol that is usually the case with classic retinoid therapies.


  • Open Access

    Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Incorporated with Retinol and Pentapeptide-18—Optimization, Characterization, and Cosmetic Application

    by Małgorzata Pawłowska, Marta Marzec, Waldemar Jankowiak, Izabela Nowak

    Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide can have a full spectrum of effects on the skin as a compatible combination of ingredients with broad anti-aging properties. The research’s main objective was to ensure the stability of lipid nanocarriers containing retinol and peptide due to the planned use of this dispersion as a cosmetic raw material. To confirm the effectiveness of method optimization (high shear homogenization, HSH) and proper selection of substrates, SLN dispersions were obtained in three combinations: 1—non-incorporated SLNs; 2—SLNs containing only retinol; 3—SLNs containing retinol and pentapeptide-18; these were then stored at different temperatures (4, 25, 45 °C) for 4 weeks. The desired values of the physicochemical parameters of the optimized dispersion of lipid nanoparticles incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide over the required storage period were confirmed: mean particle size (Z-Ave) = 134.7 ± 0.3 nm; polydispersity index (PDI) = 0.269 ± 0.017 [−]; zeta potential (ZP) = 42.7 ± 1.2 mV (after 4 weeks at 25 °C). The results confirmed the proper selection of the SLN production method and the effectiveness of the optimization performed. The possibility of using the obtained raw material as an ingredient in cosmetic products with anti-aging properties was indicated.


  • Open Access

    Cold-Pressed Pomegranate Seed Oil: Study of Punicic Acid Properties by Coupling of GC/FID and FTIR

    by Aleksandra Zielińska, Krzysztof Wójcicki, Dorota Klensporf-Pawlik, Marta Marzec, Massimo Lucarini, Alessandra Durazzo, Joel Fonseca, Antonello Santini, Izabela Nowak, Eliana B. Souto

    Over the last decades, we have witnessed an increasing interest in food-related products containing vegetable oils. These oils can be obtained either by extraction or by mechanical pressing of different parts of plants (e.g., seeds, fruit, and drupels). Producers of nutraceuticals have ceaselessly searched for unique and effective natural ingredients. The enormous success of argan oil has been followed by discoveries of other interesting vegetable oils (e.g., pomegranate oil) containing several bioactives. This work describes the pomegranate fruit extract and seed oil as a rich source of conjugated linolenic acid as a metabolite of punicic acid (PA), deriving from the omega-5 family (ω-5). Through the chemical characterization of PA, its nutritional and therapeutic properties are highlighted together with the physiological properties that encourage its use in human nutrition. We analyzed the composition of all fatty acids with beneficial properties occurring in pomegranate seed oil using gas chromatography (GC) with flame-ionization detection (FID) analysis combined with Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). Pomegranate seed oil mainly consists of 9,11,13-octadic-trienoic acid (18:3), corresponding to 73 wt % of the total fatty acids. Nine components were identified by GC in PSO, varying between 0.58 and 73.19 wt %. Using midinfrared (MIR) spectroscopy, we compared the composition of pomegranate seed oil with that of meadowfoam seed oil (MSO), which is also becoming increasingly popular in the food industry due to its high content of long chain fatty acids (C20-22), providing increased oil stability. From the results of FTIR and MIR spectroscopy, we found that punicic acid is unique in PSO (73.19 wt %) but not in MSO.


  • Open Access

    Possibilities of Using Medicinal Plant Extracts and Salt-Containing Raw Materials from the Aral Region for Cosmetic Purposes

    by Izabela Nowak, Akmaral Issayeva, Marta Dąbrowska, Agata Wawrzyńczak, Henryk Jeleń, Bogusława Łęska, Azhar Abubakirova, Assel Tleukeyeva

    The aim of this work was to study the possibility of using medicinal plants in combination with salt-containing raw materials from the Aral Sea region for cosmetic purposes. The chemical and mineralogical compositions of salts occurring in this region were studied for pharmacological and cosmetic purposes. The salt-containing raw materials were studied by X-ray diffraction (XRD), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The microflora of saline-containing raw materials and flora of the Zhaksy-Klych lake were studied. Fifty-six plant species were identified, of which 25% belong to the Asteraceae family, 32% were Poaceae, 22% were Amaranthaceae, and 21% were Tamaricaceae. Using the solid-phase microextraction (SPME) method and comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography–mass spectrometry, the composition of volatile compounds in such plant species as Artemisia alba L., Achilleamillifolium L., Eleagus commutate Bernh. Ex Rydb., Psoraleadrupacea Bunge, Artemisia cipa O. Vegd., Thymus vulgaris L., Morus alba L., Salvia pratensis L., Glycyrhizaglabra L., Tanacetum vulgare L., Polygonumaviculare L., Alhagipseudoalhagi Gagnebin and Peganumharmala L., chosen on the basis of their herbal components for future cosmetic products, was determined. In total, 187 different volatile compounds were found in the endemic plant species Glycyrrhizaglabra L., of which the following were dominant: 1,7-octadiene-3-, 2,6-dimethyl- with a peak area of 4.71%; caryophyllenes; bicyclo[7.2.0]4,11,11-trimethyl-8-methylene-, [1R-(1R*,4E,9S*)]—3.70%; bicyclo[2.2.1] heptane-2-1,7,7-trimethyl-,(1S)—3.46%; cyclohexanone, 5-methyl-2-(1-methylethyledene)-; 2-isopropyledene-5—2.97%; menthol; cyclohexanol, 5-methyl-2-(1-methylethyl)-; p-menthane-3-ol; menthol alcohol; and 2-isopropyl-5—2.08%. The remaining compounds were detected in amounts of less than 2.0%. Tests of seven cosmetic compositions developed on the basis of plant extracts and salt-containing raw materials revealed that three samples had a moisturizing effect. Launching the production of cosmetic products in the Aral region will not only reduce social tensions but also significantly improve the environmental situation in the region.