Marc Adrià Oliver

Background: The aim of this study is to characterize and detect the possible differences among the hair of three different ethnicities: African, Asiatic and Caucasian.Materials and Methods: The differences in water adsorption/desorption behaviour of hairs were studied using a thermogravimetric balance and compared with the analysis of the lipid distribution and order using synchrotron‐based Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy. Besides, the thermal thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analyses on human hair were executed.Results: Differences in the diffusion coefficients were evidenced. African hair exhibited increased permeability. Caucasian hair displayed a higher water absorption capability with increasing humidity but with a slow diffusion rate. The Asian fibre appeared to be more resistant to hydration changes. The spectroscopic analysis showed notable differences in the cuticle lipids. The African cuticle exhibited more lipids with a lower order bilayer. The outmost layer of Caucasian fibres contained more ordered lipids, and the Asian fibres show a very low level of lipids on the cuticle region. The DSC results indicate no difference in the thermal stability and TG showed higher water content in the Caucasian fibre and a possible lower cysteine disulphide bond content in the African hair matrix.Conclusion: The triple approach demonstrated the permeability differences among the ethnic fibres and their correlation with the properties of their cuticle lipids. These differences could have particular relevance to the hair care cosmetic market.

Objective: The main aim of this study is to characterize the external lipids of different ethnic hairs and to study the contribution of the exogenous lipids on their physicochemical properties.Methods: On the extraction procedure, sebaceous lipids from the exterior of the fiber are removed. The influence of those free lipids on the hair properties, such as contact angle, mechanical characteristics, and sorption of water, will be evaluated to determine permeation characteristics of the keratin fibers. Relationship with lipid order was also determined by infrared spectroscopy (IR).Results: Lipid extraction indicates the greatest amount of total lipids for African hair. Caucasian lipid extracts present the higher melting point and phase transition temperatures. This could be related to higher hydration and lower diffusion coefficient of the Caucasian fibers. A decrease in moisture was found in the lipid‐extracted fibers. This diminution of the maximum water regain in all cases could be due to a higher water desorption. IR results indicate that Caucasian and moreover African native fibers present the most quantity of lipids, and the similar frequency of all fibers indicates a lamellar/orthorhombic order arrangement.Conclusion: The hexane/tert‐butanol extraction was demonstrated to modify not only cuticular but also cortex lipids. Exogenous lipid depletion in all fibers indicates a less water content and higher water desorption. However, lipid depleted Caucasian fibers presents an increase in the lipid order which could be related to the different saturation of the lipid extract and its improvement in breaking tenacity.

Background: The main objective of this study was to determine the lipid profile of brown and white Caucasian hair fibres and the effects of lipids on the properties of fibres.Materials and Methods: To determine the structures of white and brown hair lipid bilayers, cross sections of fibres of both hair types were examined using synchrotron‐based μ‐FTIR mapping. Dynamic vapour sorption (DVS) analyses were also performed to determine the differences in the barrier function of both fibres.Results: Spatial identification of lipids showed that a great amount of lipids was present in the medulla of fibres of both hair types, but important differences were also observed between cuticles of the different fibres. The cuticle of a white hair fibre showed a significant decrease in its lipid content, but did not show differences in the lateral packing order with respect to the cuticle of a brown hair fibre. The cortex and medulla of the white hair fibre also exhibited a significant decrease in its lipid content but with a higher lateral packing order than brown hair. Using DVS analysis, it was found that the water dynamics of white hair fibres differed from those of brown hair fibres, showing a decrease in their total capacity to absorb water and an increase in the velocity of the exchange of water with the environment.Conclusion: The results of both techniques demonstrated a high correlation between the characteristics of the lipids located in the cuticle and the water dynamics of the fibres.

The hair follicle (HF) is a dynamic “mini-organ” which undergoes bi-continuous cycles of growth, destruction and rest. The molecular mechanisms underlying the HF cycle are complex yet not fully understood. Anyhow, it is clear that the epithelial–mesenchymal interactions, and in particular the cross-talk between dermal papilla fibroblast (DPF) and the keratinocytes of the outer root sheath (ORSK) play a pivotal role. Aim of this study is the evaluation of the biological activity of anisotropic osmolyte solutions on the HF cycle. As reported in recent studies, dermal papilla cells deeply modify their gene expression profile when cultured as monolayers, but their transcriptional pattern can be partially restored when they are cultured as 3-dimensional spheroids. This draws our attention to the discovery that the spatial distribution of cells in the growth medium is fundamental in order to produce a verisimilar model. Therefore, we used the hanging drop technology to produce a scaffold-free micro-tissue model applied to a DPF-ORSK co-culture in order to create a µHF 3-dimensional model. As a result, this system was capable of evaluating the efficacy of the anisotropic osmolyte solutions on the progressive increase of the follicle turnover and ‘health’. Moreover, an in silico model was used in order to screen the most promising combination of osmolyte molecules. In vivo objective evaluations were finally carried out on volunteers having hair disorders.

Corticoids are actives widely used in the treatment of skin diseases. This work aims to study the penetration of 3 corticoids (betamethasone, clobetasol, and flurandrenolide), their relationship with their Log D values and the effects of the vehicles. The 3 compounds were applied on a Franz‐type diffusion cell in propylene glycol solution and their respective commercial creams and ointments. The active amounts found in the stratum corneum, epidermal, and dermal layers of the skin were investigated. Their diffusions were greatly affected by the formulation; moreover higher amounts of substance in the epidermis and dermis were detected in ointments than in creams. The enhancement effect of propylene glycol was also observed. The differences between the 3 substances could be related to their lipophilicity, molecular structure, and molecular weight. The more hydrophobic compounds (clobetasol and betamethasone) are present in higher amounts in the epidermis and dermis, while the hydrophilic compound (flurandrenolide) is mostly present in the receptor fluid.

Purpose: The aim of this study was to characterize the external and internal lipids of Caucasian hair and their influence in different hair properties such as moisture content, hydrophobic character, and mechanical properties.Methods: Lipid extraction and their analysis by thin layer chromatography with flame ionization detector were carried out. Lipid rearrangement and water sorption and desorption evaluation of these fibers with and without lipids will also be determined using different techniques such as differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetric analysis and dynamic vapor sorption, mainly to evaluate permeation changes of these hair fibers possibly related to the fluidity of the lipids extracted.Results: Caucasian fibers were found to be well hydrated, and moisture diminution was observed mainly for the external lipid extracted fibers. Unexpectedly, the lipid extraction promoted an increase in the break tenacity of the Caucasian fibers. The hydrophobic character of the fiber surfaces indicates the marked hydrophobicity of all fibers. Delipidization promotes only a slight diminution of their hydrophobic properties.Water uptake and desorption studies indicate an important water regain for Caucasian fibers. The external extracted hair fibers presented a diminution of maximum water regain, which surprisingly increases with the following internal lipid extraction. This can be due to a higher water desorption found only for external extracted fibers.Conclusions: The relationship between fluidity of lipids extracted and hair fiber water diffusion were established. Extraction of internal lipids of Caucasian fibers, which have a higher unsaturated lipid content than external lipids of the same hair fiber, leads to a lower water permeability of the fiber. On the capillar formulations should be considered the importance of lipid fluidity to modify the permeability of the fiber.