Cédric Peyrot

Face à l’apparition croissante de troubles pigmentaires liés à l’exposition aux UV, le développement de nouveaux actifs blanchissants représente un enjeu majeur pour l’industrie cosmétique. De plus en plus de consommateurs s’orientent vers des produits eco-responsables, il devient urgent de développer de nouvelles méthodes de biocatalyse pour accéder à des antipigmentants. Certains glycosides, comme l’arbutine présentent des propriétés blanchissantes qui restent toutefois limitées face à l’hydrolyse rapide de la liaison O-glycosidique. L’enjeu du projet consiste à synthétiser des analogues de cette molécule en série thioglycosidique. En effet, cette liaison permet une plus grande stabilité vis à vis de l’hydrolyse. La mutation d’une glycosidase native issue de dictyoglomus thermophilum a permis d’accéder à une thioglycoligase. Cette dernière permet d’obtenir par catalyse enzymatique des analogues de l’arbutine. Six composés en série S- et O-glycosidique ont pu être synthétisés et testés en tant qu’agents dépigmentants. La méthodologie de synthèse a ensuite été appliquée pour l’obtention de thioglycolipides. Ces molécules sont connues pour leurs propriétés hydrogélifiantes permettant d’accéder à des matériaux thermoreversibles. Cinq molécules ont été identifiées en tant qu’agents hydrogélifiants. Les propriétés rhéologiques, thermiques et structurales ont été caractérisées mettant en évidence des différences significatives parmi les composés. Enfin les résultats préliminaires sur la formulation d’un produit à la fois antipigmentant et texturant s’avèrent prometteurs pour la validation d’un concept de matériau intelligent pour l’industrie cosmétique.

It is not unusual for naturally occurring compounds to be limited for their use in cosmetics due to their low water solubility. Recently, aiming at accessing novel phlorizin (a glycosylated bioactive recovered from apple tree wood and already used in cosmetics as antioxidant ingredient) analogues, we reported the synthesis of very promising – but low water‐soluble – biomass‐derived chalcones (CHs) and dihydrochalcones (DHCs) exhibiting antioxidant and anti‐tyrosinase activities. Glycosylating bioactive compounds being one of the most common strategies to increase their water solubility, herein we report the enzymatic glycosylation of the CHs mentioned above, as well as DHC using cyclodextrin glycosyltransferases (CGTase), enzymes well‐known for catalyzing the selective α(1→4) transglycosylation. Indeed, while most natural glycosides are β‐glycosides (such as phlorizin), the selected enzyme produces selectively new α‐glycosides, thus expanding their structural diversity. A first step of separation using Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC) led to mono‐, di‐ or triglycosides‐enriched fractions, which were then submitted to a comprehensive purification strategy for an in‐depth chemical profiling of the synthesized α‐glycosides, revealing that the major compounds were glycosylpyranosides. Surprisingly, among the diglycosides characterized, besides the expected maltoside compounds, nigeroside derivatives were also identified in significant amounts, depending on the starting compound structure. Finally, evaluating the antiradical, anti‐tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities of the major glycosides revealed them as potential sustainable alternatives to current petro‐sourced cosmetic ingredients.

With an increasing demand for safe and natural products from both industries and consumers, paired with the recent ban of decried molecules (i.e. octinoxate, avobenzone or octocrylene) due to their high negative impact on humans and the environment (i.e. endocrine disruption, coral bleaching), safe bio-based alternatives are a necessary and promising surrogate to substitute current commercialized petroleum-based UV filters. In this context, a class of bio-based molecules, displaying interesting UV-B filtering properties and great photostability were developed from furfural and 5-hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF), using the Knoevenagel condensation with a set of green conditions to minimize the impact on environment. Furthermore, those furfural- and HMF-based molecules demonstrated antimicrobial properties as secondary activity, highly sought by industries. Some furan derivatives being recognized to exhibit toxicological risks, in silico and in vitro assays were conducted and demonstrated the absence of endocrine disruption activity for these new molecules. GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT

Cherry tree branches (Prunus avium var burlat Rosaceae) are agricultural by-products that are often neglected, yet they are rich in phenolic compounds and highly appreciated for their numerous biological activities. Extracts of cherry tree branches were evaluated for their use in cosmetics, particularly for their antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and antimicrobial activities. Samples were obtained by accelerated solvent extraction (ASE) at different ethanol percentages and different temperatures. Fourteen phenolic compounds were identified in the extracts by mass spectrometry. Three major compounds were identified (catechin, genistin, and prunin) representing 84 wt% of the total phenolic compounds. Optimal operating conditions maximizing the content of phenolic compounds were determined using a one factor at a time (OFAT) approach (70% aqueous ethanol, 70 °C). The extract obtained under these conditions also showed the highest antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities, certainly due to a high catechin content. Although the antimicrobial activities of extracts are less versatile than those of synthetic molecules, they are nonetheless interesting. According to these results, the extracts of cherry tree branches could be used in cosmetics for their interesting properties.

The recent ban of some organic UV-filters – such as oxybenzone or octinoxate – considered toxic for coral reef, has heightened the need for eco-friendly alternatives, especially those synthesized using green approaches that reduce the carbon footprint. In this context, several thiobarbituric acid derivatives were synthetized from bio-based p-hydroxybenzaldehydes (e.g. vanillin, syringaldehyde) through a high-yielding sustainable Knoevenagel condensation, and their UV-filtering activity, stability and antiradical properties were investigated. The results showed promising UVA and blue light coverage over time, as well as competitive EC₅₀ values in comparison to commercial antioxidants (i.e. BHA and BHT). In order to evaluate the potential of these molecules as substitutes to current petroleum-based UV-filters, the potential toxicity and fate in environment of these new compounds were evaluated in silico. This screening did not show a critical potential for toxicity, making them promising candidates for further in vitro and in vivo assessment. GRAPHICAL ABSTRACT

The current cosmetic and nutraceutical markets are characterized by a strong consumer demand for a return to natural products that are less harmful to both the consumers and the environment than current petrosourced products. Phloretin, a natural dihydrochalcone (DHC) found in apple, has been widely studied for many years and identified as a strong antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase ingredient for cosmetic formulations. Its low concentration in apples does not allow it to be obtained by direct extraction from biomass in large quantities to meet market volumes and prices. Moreover, its remarkable structure prevents its synthesis through a green process. To overcome these issues, the synthesis of phloretin analogs appears as an alternative to access valuable compounds that are potentially more active than phloretin itself. Under such considerations, 12 chalcones (CHs) and 12 dihydrochalcones (DHCs) were synthesized through a green Claisen–Schmidt condensation using bio-based reagents. In order to evaluate the potential of these molecules, radical scavenging DPPH and anti-tyrosinase tests have been conducted. Moreover, the UV filtering properties and the stability of these analogs towards UV-radiations have been evaluated. Some molecules showed competitive antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities regarding phloretin. Two compounds in particular showed EC₅₀ lower than phloretin, one chalcone and one dihydrochalcone.

The sparsity of efficient commercial ultraviolet-A (UV-A) filters is a major challenge toward developing effective broadband sunscreens with minimal human- and eco-toxicity. To combat this, we have designed a new class of Meldrum-based phenolic UV-A filters. We explore the ultrafast photodynamics of coumaryl Meldrum, CMe, and sinapyl Meldrum (SMe), both in an industry-standard emollient and on a synthetic skin mimic, using femtosecond transient electronic and vibrational absorption spectroscopies and computational simulations. Upon photoexcitation to the lowest excited singlet state (S₁), these Meldrum-based phenolics undergo fast and efficient nonradiative decay to repopulate the electronic ground state (S₀). We propose an initial ultrafast twisted intramolecular charge-transfer mechanism as these systems evolve out of the Franck–Condon region toward an S₁/S₀ conical intersection, followed by internal conversion to S₀ and subsequent vibrational cooling. Importantly, we correlate these findings to their long-term photostability upon irradiation with a solar simulator and conclude that these molecules surpass the basic requirements of an industry-standard UV filter.

Faced with the increasing demand from both the cosmetic industries and consumers for bio-based, safe and natural skin products, sinapoyl-L-malate, widely described for its UV protection in plants, appears to be an excellent alternative to substitute chemical filters in sunscreens. Unfortunately, the only synthetic routes described in the literature were not only tedious but also exhibit a strong negative environmental impact, thus seriously limiting the industrialization and commercialization of sinapoyl-L-malate. Herein, a shorter and greener synthetic pathway involving Meldrum's acid opening with unprotected naturally occurring hydroxy acids and its subsequent Knoevenagel-Doebner condensation with biomass-derived p-hydroxybenzaldehydes was designed and developed. This two-step procedure, whom sustainability has been assessed using green metrics (atom economy (AE), process atom economy (PAE), E-factor and LCA), is a great alternative to the already reported procedures and allows the access to sinapoyl-L-malate and several analogs in average to good yield. The study of the anti-UV properties, stability against UV radiation, radical scavenging and antimicrobial activities of the targets revealed attractive properties as photostable UV filters, antioxidants and preservatives. Moreover, the water solubility brought by the free carboxylic acids facilitates the incorporation of these molecules in cosmetic formulations. Finally, their innocuousness toward endocrine disruption was demonstrated.

In 2021, Hawaii will permanently ban the use and sale of octinoxate-based sunscreens as studies have shown serious impacts of such UV filters on the coral reef. This ban, which could be generalized to other countries, highlights the extreme need to offer alternative UV filters that are not only effective in terms of sun protection, but also healthy with regards to human health and the environment. In this context, a wide library of p-hydroxycinnamic esters deriving from naturally occurring sinapic acid has been synthesized using a Knoevenagel–Doebner condensation. The UV filtering activities as well as the antioxidant properties of these sinapic acid esters were then investigated. The results showed promising UVB protection and antioxidant efficacy. A Structure–Activity Relationship (SAR) study on the sinapic acid esters highlighted the need of a free phenol to, as expected, observe antioxidant activity, but also to obtain a higher intensity of protection. Moreover, the nature of the ester moiety also proved to be a key structural feature for the UV absorbance, as higher steric hindrance on the ester moiety leads to more active compounds. The judicious structural design of sinapic esters thus provides promising compounds combining UV protection and antioxidant activity.