Aurélien L. Furlan

Vitamin C is one of the most sensitive cosmetic active ingredients. To avoid its degradation, its encapsulation into biobased carriers such as dendrimers is one alternative of interest. In this work, we wanted to evaluate the potential of two biobased glycerodendrimer families (GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(AmidoAmine) (GD-PAMAMs) or GlyceroDendrimers-Poly(Propylene Imine) (GD-PPIs)) as a vitamin C carrier for topical application. The higher encapsulation capacity of GD-PAMAM-3 compared to commercial PAMAM-3 and different GD-PPIs, and its absence of cytotoxicity towards dermal cells, make it a good candidate. Investigation of its mechanism of action was done by using two kinds of biomimetic models of stratum corneum (SC), lipid monolayers and liposomes. GD-PAMAM-3 and VitC@GD-PAMAM-3 (GD-PAMAM-3 with encapsulated vitamin C) can both interact with the lipid representatives of the SC lipid matrix, whichever pH is considered. However, only pH 5.0 is suggested to be favorable to release vitamin C into the SC matrix. Their binding to SC-biomimetic liposomes revealed only a slight effect on membrane permeability in accordance with the absence of cytotoxicity but an increase in membrane rigidity, suggesting a reinforcement of the SC barrier property. Globally, our results suggest that the dendrimer GD-PAMAM-3 could be an efficient carrier for cosmetic applications.

The role of membrane lipids is increasingly claimed to explain biological activities of natural amphiphile molecules. To decipher this role, biophysical studies with biomimetic membrane models are often helpful to obtain insights at the molecular and atomic levels. In this review, the added value of biophysics to study lipid-driven biological processes is illustrated using the case of surfactins, a class of natural lipopeptides produced by Bacillus sp. showing a broad range of biological activities. The mechanism of interaction of surfactins with biomimetic models showed to be dependent on the surfactins-to-lipid ratio with action as membrane disturber without membrane lysis at low and intermediate ratios and a membrane permeabilizing effect at higher ratios. These two mechanisms are relevant to explain surfactins’ biological activities occurring without membrane lysis, such as their antiviral and plant immunity-eliciting activities, and the one involving cell lysis, such as their antibacterial and hemolytic activities. In both biological and biophysical studies, influence of surfactin structure and membrane lipids on the mechanisms was observed with a similar trend. Hence, biomimetic models represent interesting tools to elucidate the biological mechanisms targeting membrane lipids and can contribute to the development of new molecules for pharmaceutical or agronomic applications.

Some amphiphilic molecules are able to interact with the lipid matrix of plant plasma membranes and trigger the immune response in plants. This original mode of perception is not yet fully understood and biophysical approaches could help to obtain molecular insights. In this review, we focus on such membrane-interacting molecules, and present biophysically grounded methods that are used and are particularly interesting in the investigation of this mode of perception. Rather than going into overly technical details, the aim of this review was to provide to readers with a plant biochemistry background a good overview of how biophysics can help to study molecular interactions between bioactive amphiphilic molecules and plant lipid membranes. In particular, we present the biomimetic membrane models typically used, solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance, molecular modeling, and fluorescence approaches, because they are especially suitable for this field of research. For each technique, we provide a brief description, a few case studies, and the inherent limitations, so non-specialists can gain a good grasp on how they could extend their toolbox and/or could apply new techniques to study amphiphilic bioactive compound and lipid interactions.