Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran

Grape pomace is one of the most abundant byproducts of the wine industry. This by-product contains many valuable bioactive substances, including polysaccharides, amino acids, and polyphenols. To enable its effective reuse, this study developed and optimized a micelle-assisted extraction process using a 2% (w/w) decyl glucoside solution aqueous as an extraction medium. The influence of key process parameters—the pomace-to-medium ratio, extraction temperature, and extraction time—was systematically evaluated to determine their impact on extraction yield and the physicochemical properties of the recovered compounds. Extraction efficiency was assessed by determining total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant capacity (DPPH, ABTS) using UV-VIS spectrophotometry and by determining selected phenolic compounds, amino acids, and sugars using Ultraperformance Liquid Chromatography Coupled with Tandem Mass Spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) The results demonstrated that all the parameters investigated significantly influenced the recovery of bioactive substances. The developed decyl glucoside-based micellar extraction proved to be an efficient, low-temperature, and environmentally favorable method for valorizing grape pomace, offering strong potential for cosmetic and related applications.

This study presents the development and comprehensive characterization of innovative formulations for facial toners based on micellar water–glycol systems. The study evaluated aqueous solutions of three natural glycols—1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and 1,2-pentylene glycol—both as extraction agents and as functional ingredients in facial toner formulations. The physicochemical properties (viscosity, color, contact angle) and aggregation behavior (CMC, particle size) were analyzed to determine the effect of the extraction medium on the efficiency of plant-derived metabolite extraction. Grapevine buds, obtained from a byproduct of grape cultivation, were used as the plant material. The extracts obtained were evaluated in terms of active ingredient content and antioxidant potential using LC-MS/MS and UV-VIS techniques, respectively. The results showed that pentylene glycol-based micellar systems exhibited the lowest CMC value and the most favorable wetting properties, leading to the highest phenolic content and antioxidant activity in the extracts. Facial toners containing these extracts were subjected to functional and application tests, assessing, among other things, viscosity, wetting angle, and irritation potential. The study results provide new insights into the relationship between surfactant aggregation, glycol-based media, and cosmetic formulation design, offering a balanced and effective strategy for developing multifunctional skin care products.

This study developed a facial skin care serum based on extracts from cornflower petals (Centaurea cyanus L.). The study applied the concept of loan extraction, in which the ingredients of the final cosmetic product were used as the extraction medium. The extracts obtained were analyzed for stability and physicochemical parameters, as well as phytochemical composition, total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant activity. Among the tested solvents, the extract prepared with 1,3-propanediol aqueous solution exhibited the highest TPC (13.5 mg GAE/g) and demonstrated the strongest antioxidant activity measured by ABTS (20.12 d ± 0.07 mgTE/g). HPLC-MS/MS analysis revealed that the extract obtained using this medium showed the most complex profile of bioactive compounds among all the studied samples. After the extraction process the borrowed ingredients were returned together with the extracted ingredients to prepare cosmetic preparations—facial skin care serums. The finished model cosmetic products were evaluated for physicochemical parameters (stability, viscosity, color) and irritation potential, considering the extract used, which varied depending on the extraction agent borrowed from the formulated composition. The preparation obtained on the basis of an aqueous solution of 1,3-propanediol as an extraction agent showed the most favorable properties in terms of irritation, determined on the basis of the zein number (15 ± 4 mgN/100 mL), compared to facial skin face serum without extract addition (21 ± 1 mg N/100 mL). This extract was also characterized by the highest values of TPC and antioxidant activity, hence the observed reduction in irritation potential can be attributed to the beneficial effects of bioactive compounds derived from Centaurea cyanus L. extract.

In this study, the concept of loan extraction was used to design a skin care serum (cosmetic) containing high concentrations of bioactive components isolated from marigold petals. A series of extraction media derived from the final formulation were used. The effect of the type of medium on the quality of the extracts obtained was evaluated based on the physicochemical properties of the extracts and the concentrations of the extracted bioactive compounds (phenolic acids, polyphenols, amino acids, and sugars) determined by LC-MS/MS. The antioxidant potential was measured using UV-Vis methods. The final preparations were analyzed for the effect of the extract addition on physicochemical parameters (stability, viscosity, color) and anti-irritant properties. LC-MS/MS identification confirmed the presence of key phenolic metabolites of Calendula officinalis L. (including phenolic acids and flavonoids) and accompanying amino acids and sugars. The UV-Vis technique confirmed the antioxidant properties of the obtained extracts. The resulting serum shows a low value of anti-irritant potential without significantly impairing the physicochemical parameters of the product. The obtained results confirmed the possibility of direct use of Calendula officinalis L. extracts in cosmetic serum formulations, obtaining additional functional benefits.

Growing consumer preference for natural products has prompted interest in the use of plant extracts as plant raw materials providing active ingredients for cosmetics. This study focuses on vine tendrils, a by-product of grape cultivation, as a sustainable source of bioactive compounds. The idea of loan extraction using components borrowed from the final formulation was applied to extract valuable compounds from vine tendrils. The effectiveness of different extraction media was compared by analyzing the chemical profile of the extracts obtained using LC–MS/MS and UV–VIS techniques. The results obtained indicate the potential of extracts from grapevine tendrils as plant materials rich in bioactive substances with antioxidant properties, which supports their use in cosmetic products aimed at improving hair condition and skin protection. It is important to emphasize that grapevine tendrils are considered waste material that must be removed during vineyard maintenance. Cosmetics based on the processed extracts were prepared and evaluated. The viscosity, foaming properties, color parameters, and irritation potential of the developed cosmetics were assessed. The obtained results demonstrated the potential of the waste material as a valuable source of natural cosmetic components.

This study highlights the use of alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) as sustainable and mild surfactants in cosmetic preparations, such as shampoos, following the principles of green chemistry and environmentally friendly development. APGs are non-ionic surfactants of plant origin. Their favorable dermatological and toxicological profile, as well as their high skin compatibility, make them an excellent alternative to conventional surfactants used in cosmetic products. To increase the sustainability and functionality of cosmetic preparations, the concept of loan extraction was applied, in which the extraction medium is borrowed from the final cosmetic formulation. After the extraction process, the medium enriched with the extracted compounds is returned to the cosmetic. The APGs, as part of cosmetic formulations, were used in the micellar extraction process of grape pomace, a by-product of wine production. The study evaluated the effect of different types of APGs—coco-glucoside and decyl glucoside—and their concentrations on extraction efficiency, measured by LC-MS/MS based on the content of phenolic compounds and amino acids, as well as the total phenolic content, total anthocyanin content and antioxidant activity assessed by UV-Vis spectroscopy. The designed extraction medium was then used to develop a shampoo, which showed a significantly lower zein value compared to the reference preparation without extract, indicating a reduced skin irritation potential. These results highlight the potential of APG in the development of milder, sustainable cosmetic products with the ability to extract bioactive components, supporting their use in the production of environmentally friendly cosmetics.

The growing interest of consumers in natural products contributes to the increasingly widespread use of plant extracts as carriers of active ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Among plant materials, grape pomace, which remains after wine production, is of particular importance due to its known high bioactive compounds content. Micelle-assisted extraction was used to effectively extract these compounds. The aim of this study was to investigate the potential of various surfactants in the extraction process for cosmetic application. It was particularly important that the surfactants were borrowed from the final formulation of the designed cosmetic preparations. The concept of loan extraction for the production of cosmetics was described. The influence of the type of surfactants on the extraction efficiency was assessed by determination of individual phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars using LC-MS/MS, as well as by determination of the total phenolic content and antioxidant activity using UV-VIS. The results obtained confirmed that the type of surfactants has a significant impact on extraction efficiency. The studies conducted proved that the application of the concept of loan extraction in the production of hygiene cosmetics, as exemplified by shower gels, enables the production of safe and natural products with reduced skin irritant potential.

The objective of this study was to develop and optimize a novel ultrasound- and enzyme-assisted extraction (UEAE) method for isolating phenolic compounds, both free and cell-wall-bound, from red (RGP) and white (WGP) grape pomace. The research focused on evaluating the effects of key process parameters, including the composition and concentration of the enzyme mixture (pectinase, cellulase, and hemicellulase), pH, hydrolysis time, and sonication duration, on extraction efficiency and the chemical profile of the recovered phenolics. A specific aim was to compare the performance of the optimized UEAE method with solid–liquid extraction (SLE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), and enzyme-assisted extraction (EAE) in terms of both the quantity and diversity of phenolic compounds extracted. The results demonstrated that applying ultrasound after enzymatic hydrolysis significantly enhanced the release of the phenolic compounds. The UEAE method proved especially effective in extracting phenolic acids, such as gallic, caffeic, ferulic, and p-coumaric acids, with gallic acid content in red grape pomace reaching 431 mg/100 g and that in p-coumaric acid reaching 138 mg/100 g. Additionally, flavonoids, including quercetin, kaempferol, luteolin, vanillin, and trans-resveratrol as well as anthocyanins such as malvidin-3-glucoside and cyanidin chloride, were recovered in higher concentrations using the combined method, indicating its broad extraction capability. The highest total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant activity (measured via DPPH and ABTS assays) were observed when ultrasound treatment followed 60 min of enzymatic hydrolysis. This enhancement is attributed to the mechanical disruption of plant structures by ultrasound, which promotes the release of phenolics still bound within the cellular matrix. Overall, the optimized UEAE method proved to be an efficient and versatile approach for maximizing the recovery of bioactive compounds from grape pomace.

Grape pomace, the solid residue from winemaking, is a rich source of polyphenolic compounds with significant antioxidant properties. However, the efficient extraction of these valuable compounds remains a challenge. This study focuses on optimizing the conditions for the enzyme-assisted extraction of polyphenolic compounds from red grape pomace using cellulase, hemicellulase, and pectinase. The key variables investigated in this study were enzyme concentration, extraction time, and solid/liquid ratio. The results highlight the importance of selecting enzymes based on target compounds, as different enzymes were found to be more effective for specific phenolic fractions. Hemicellulase was most effective for phenolic acids, cellulase for catechins, and pectinase for anthocyanins. Enzyme-assisted extraction significantly increased the yield of phenolic compounds and resulted in higher total phenolic content and antioxidant activity compared to control samples treated with solid/liquid extraction without enzyme addition. These findings confirm that enzyme-assisted extraction is a promising approach for enhancing the recovery of polyphenolic compounds from grape pomace.