Audrey Gueniche

For the first time, retinol has been associated with Vitreoscilla filiformis extract (a probiotic fraction with regenerative properties). The eff | POSTER

The microbiome, as a community of microorganisms and their structural elements, genomes, metabolites/signal molecules, has been shown to play an important role in human health, with significant beneficial applications for gut health. Skin microbiome has emerged as a new field with high potential to develop disruptive solutions to manage skin health and disease. Despite an incomplete toolbox for skin microbiome analyses, much progress has been made towards functional dissection of microbiomes and host-microbiome interactions. A standardized and robust investigation of the skin microbiome is necessary to provide accurate microbial information and set the base for a successful translation of innovations in the dermo-cosmetic field. This review provides an overview of how the landscape of skin microbiome research has evolved from method development (multi-omics/data-based analytical approaches) to the discovery and development of novel microbiome-derived ingredients. Moreover, it provides a summary of the latest findings on interactions between the microbiomes (gut and skin) and skin health/disease. Solutions derived from these two paths are used to develop novel microbiome-based ingredients or solutions acting on skin homeostasis are proposed. The most promising skin and gut-derived microbiome interventional strategies are presented, along with regulatory, safety, industrial, and technical challenges related to a successful translation of these microbiome-based concepts/technologies in the dermo-cosmetic industry.

The exposome has an impact on skin from life‐long exposure. Acute short‐term exposure to exposome stressors can also alter skin functions such as skin physical barrier and immune defenses, leading to skin dryness, sensitivity, flares of inflammatory skin conditions, or viral reactivations. Probiotics are defined as live microorganisms, which, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host. An extract produced by lysingVitreoscilla filiformis(VfeV) cultured in Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) has properties of probiotic fractions. In this review, we presentin vivoandex vivostudies with a dermocosmetic formulation containing 80% VVMW, 5% VfeV, 4% niacinamide (vitamin B3), 0.4% hyaluronic acid, and 0.2% vitamin E (M89PF) to evaluate the clinical efficacy in preventing and repairing stressed skin. Skin barrier benefits of M89PF were shown in studies after the skin was exposed to sudden thermal changes, after skin irritation by tape stripping, and in sleep‐deprived women. M89PF significantly accelerated skin renewal compared to untreated skin. Skin antioxidant defense activity of M89PF was shown after exposure to stress from UVA plus cigarette smoke aggression. Skin microbiome recovery after acute stress from a harsh cleanser was significantly better in M89PF‐treated skin compared to bare skin. Clinical benefits of M89PF on correcting clinical signs of stressed skin were shown in both Caucasian and Asian women exposed to a stressful lifestyle and various external (pollution, tobacco smoking, solar radiation) and internal (poor sleep, stressful work, unbalanced diet, and alcohol consumption) exposome factors. M89PF also showed depigmenting properties on dark spots in Asian women. Further clinical studies are now warranted to evaluate the efficacy of M89PF as adjuvant care to prevent and repair skin barrier disruption and reinforce skin defenses in skin exposed to acute stresses.

Probiotics are live microorganisms, which, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host. Semiactive, non‐replicating bacteria or extracts used in dermocosmetics have interesting properties for skin quality. Vitreoscilla filiformis is cultured by a fermentation process to obtain an extract. It is considered as a probiotic fraction and topical application of this extract has shown activity to strengthen the skin physical barrier function and maintain good homeostasis of skin defenses. Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) is a pure, highly mineralized water that has been shown to strengthen the skin against exposome aggressions. This manuscript reviews properties of probiotic fractions used in skin care, especially studies on an extract of V. filiformis grown in a medium containing VVMW (VfeV) and evaluated in combination with VVMW. Skin barrier function: In normal human epidermal keratinocyte cultures, the combination of 10% VVMW and 0.002% VfeV significantly increased transglutaminase, filaggrin, involucrin, claudin‐1, and zonula occludens‐1 in comparison with the controls. Antimicrobial peptide defenses: The combination of 16.7% VVMW and 0.1% VfeV increased the expression of β‐defensin‐4A and S100A7. Skin immune defense functions: In lipopolysaccharide‐stimulated peripheral blood mononuclear cells, the combination of 16.7% VVMW and 0.1% VfeV down‐regulated IL‐8, TNF‐α, IL‐12/IL‐23p40, and increased IL10 and IL‐10/IL‐12 ratio compared to the control. Additionally, the combination of 79% VVMW plus 5% VfeV protected Langerhans cells in skin explants exposed to ultraviolet radiation. In conclusion, the combination of VfeV plus VVMW has properties to strengthen the skin barrier by stimulating skin differentiation and tight junctions, biochemical defenses by stimulating antimicrobial peptides, and cellular immune defenses by increasing the IL‐10/IL‐12 ratio and by protecting Langerhans cells challenged by ultraviolet radiation.

The term probiotic has been defined by experts as live microorganisms, which when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host. Probiotics are, thus, by definition, live microorganisms, and the viability of probiotics is a prerequisite for certain benefits, such as the release of metabolites at the site or adhesion properties, for example. However, some semi-active or non-replicative bacterial preparations may retain a similar activity to the live forms. On cosmetic, lysates or fractions are generally used. Topically applied Vitreoscilla filiformis extract has shown to have some similar biological activity of probiotics in the gut, for example, regulating immunity by optimisation of regulatory cell function, protecting against infection, and helping skin barrier function for better recovery and resistance. Due to their mode of action and efficacy, V. filiformis extract (lysate including membrane and cytosol) may be considered as non-replicative probiotic fractions, and this review article presents all its properties.