Kedron Thomas

ReSpool is a transdisciplinary partnership among academia, government, industry, and nonprofit entities created in 2022 to develop and demonstrate a transferable model for the recycling of postconsumer textile and apparel waste into new textile products. ReSpool's engineering and creative teams have innovated proprietary technologies including the Fiber Shredder, which enables textile‐to‐fiber shredding for high‐value applications, and a set of processes for the manufacture of yarns and nonwoven textiles from recycled fibers. ReSpool's circular supply chains begin with discarded clothing collected by Goodwill organizations in the two test regions and involves partnerships with Goodwill to recruit and train workers and install in‐house recycling operations. ReSpool then works with textile manufacturers and home goods and apparel retailers on high‐value applications through waste‐led materials and product development. ReSpool takes a systems‐based approach to sustainability research and problem‐solving. This article briefly overviews the “systems thinking” framework and demonstrates how core principles of this framework structure the team's objectives, activities, and innovations. Finally, the article contributes to current debates regarding systems thinking and circularity by presenting a rationale for systems‐based sustainability research and practice ratcheted to regional systems. By focusing on regional factors, connections, and opportunities, ReSpool aims to maximize its flexibility, relevance, and impact while enabling tailored replication of the model across diverse communities. In this way, ReSpool offers an innovative, circular materials model for the textile and apparel industries, turning textile waste into a source of business innovation, sustainable economic development, and skills training for communities across the country.

Clothing is a basic human need, yet the way we clothe ourselves today is fundamentally unsustainable. Recent estimates suggest that the fashion industry is responsible for 8-10% of global CO2 emissions and approximately 20 percent of industrial water pollution. The global industry yields more than 100 million tons of textile waste each year, including unsold products, and much of this waste is burned or ends up in landfills. The EPA reports that Americans generate 17 million tons of textile waste a year (EPA 2018).

The negative environmental impacts of the current linear system of textile and apparel production are well-documented and require urgent action. The sector lacks an effective recycling system, resulting in massive waste and environmental pollution. This paper presents the results of qualitative research involving textile and apparel industry stakeholders, including representatives from brands and retailers, waste collectors, recyclers, non-profit organizations, academic institutions, and government agencies. Our research focused on stakeholder perceptions of the significance and importance of textile circularity, the challenges that exist for transitioning the textile and apparel industry from a linear system to a circular economy (CE), and resources that exist to support this transition. The results of this study call attention to the following urgent requirements: a consistent definition of CE to promote transparency and accountability and prevent greenwashing; improved systems for materials identification, sorting, and pre-processing of post-consumer textile waste to enable recycling; innovations in mechanical recycling technologies to maintain the value of recycled materials; and new, materials-driven approaches to design and manufacturing that are responsive to feedstock variability and diverse consumer needs. The research findings also suggest the need for flexible, regional CEs that are rooted in community partnerships.