Patricia Lozada

This study assessed the structural stability and in vitro antioxidant capacity of a cosmetic formulation incorporating sangre de grado extract (Croton lechleri Muell) and vegetable oils from aguaje (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.), aguaymanto (Physalis peruviana L.), super sacha inchi (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.), sourced from Peruvian biodiversity. Structural characterization was conducted using Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR) on the formulation at the initial time point (ASC T0) and after six months under accelerated stability conditions (ASC T6). Characteristic absorption bands corresponding to carbonyl, ether, and hydroxyl functional groups were observed, confirming the structural integrity of the lipid–polymeric components within the emulsifying system. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS assays, with IC₅₀ values comparable to those of a commercially available cream. In the DPPH assay, ASC T6 exhibited IC₅₀ of 5744.8571 μg/mL, comparable to a commercial formulation (5641.1585 μg/mL). In the ABTS assay, ASC T0 demonstrated antioxidant activity statistically equivalent (p > 0.05) to that of the commercial cream, with IC₅₀ values of 410.2358 and 420.2202 μg/mL, respectively. In conclusion, the preservation of antioxidant activity is attributed to the structural integrity of the formulated system, which stabilized and retained synergistic interactions of the antioxidants. Future studies should explore the incorporation of additional antioxidants and include in vivo instrumental assessments of stability and efficacy.

This study aimed to evaluate the daily use safety and instrumental efficacy for sebum control of a cosmetic elastomer-type formulation containing the vegetable seed oils of Plukenetia huayllabambana, Physalis peruviana L., and Bertholletia excelsa. Assessments were conducted using a skin irritation index and the Sebumeter^® SM 815 from Courage + Khazaka Electronics GmbH, Cologne, Germany. Sebum control efficacy was determined in three groups of volunteers seated in a room at a temperature of 26 ± 1 °C. The forehead area was divided into two sections: one received the cosmetic elastomer while the other area received no product. The elastomer significantly reduced sebum levels in all three groups at 2, 4, and 5 h (p < 0.05) compared to the untreated area, and the third group exhibited higher sebum reductions, with 43.48%, 52.43%, and 43.95%, respectively. In conclusion, the dermatologically tested and safe cosmetic product contains a balanced combination of active ingredients that effectively control sebum levels, resulting in visibly oil-free skin.

Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing sangre de grado resin extract (Croton lechleri) and vegetable oils obtained from moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa L.), goldenberry (Physalis peruviana), super sacha peanut (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha peanut (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Instrumental efficacy, skin hydration and skin pH were tested in vivo in 24 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 65 years old, using non-invasive skin bioengineering equipment from Courage + Khazaka Electronics, both in the short term (30 min, 1 h and 3 h) and long term (14 and 28 days). The main findings were increased immediate hydration (132.4%) and long-term hydration (143.6%), showing a statistically significant average improvement (p < 0.05) without altering the skin pH. In conclusion, a balanced combination of the extract and oils significantly increases hydration levels while maintaining skin pH.

Sinami (Oenocarpus mapora H. Karst), a native fruit found in the Amazon region of South America, has high nutritional value and is rich in lipids. However, the processing of sinami generates a large volume of agro-industrial waste, mainly composed of seeds. Our research comprises a proximal analysis of the sinami seed and its phenolic compounds and their antioxidant activity. The chemical analysis revealed high moisture but low protein, fiber, and lipid content. Furthermore, the extracts showed high in vitro antioxidant activity against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical IC₅₀ (0.34 ± 0.001 mg/mL) and ABTS IC50 (0.10 ± 0.0002 mg/mL) free radicals. Based on this previous assessment, a gel exfoliant was developed. Since sinami seed powder is a novel ingredient, different formulations were evaluated to determine future incorporation into the cosmetic market. The best exfoliant gel prototype was studied under normal and stressed conditions (40 °C) for 3 months, maintaining a pH value of 5.25 and final viscosities of 700–800 mPa.s and 600–500 mPa.s under normal and stress conditions, respectively. Although unexplored, the sinami seed could be considered a raw material for the cosmetic industry.