Moufida Saidani Tounsi

The cosmetic and personal care industry is increasingly shifting toward plant-derived ingredients that combine multifunctional biological activity with favorable safety and sustainability profiles. Trigonella foenum-graecum L. (fenugreek), a leguminous plant traditionally used in food and medicine, has recently attracted growing attention as a potential cosmetic and cosmeceutical ingredient. This review provides a comprehensive and critical synthesis of current knowledge on fenugreek in the context of skin and hair care applications. First, the phytochemical profile of fenugreek relevant to cosmetics is examined, with emphasis on polyphenols and flavonoids, steroidal saponins, alkaloids (notably trigonelline), and mucilage-rich galactomannans. The biological activities of these constituents are then discussed in relation to key cutaneous and scalp mechanisms, including antioxidant defense, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, anti-glycation and dermal matrix protection, skin hydration and barrier support, as well as hair growth promotion and scalp health. Particular attention is given to recent in vitro, ex vivo, and emerging clinical evidence supporting anti-aging, moisturizing, and hair-care claims. Current formulation strategies and green extraction technologies enabling the incorporation of fenugreek-derived ingredients into topical products are reviewed, alongside considerations of safety, toxicity, and regulatory status under EU cosmetic legislation. Finally, existing research gaps are identified, highlighting the need for standardized extracts, robust clinical validation, and advanced omics-based approaches. This review highlights fenugreek’s strong potential as a versatile plant-based ingredient in cosmetics, despite remaining understudied in topical applications.

Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.), is renowned for its bioactive compounds, offering significant potential in cosmetic applications due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. This study presents a sustainably sourced cosmetic ingredient developed by enriching pomegranate seed oil with peel powder using optimized ultrasonication, followed by encapsulation in alginate nanobeads and integration into a minimalist hydrogel formulation. A Box–Behnken experimental design was employed to optimize ultrasonication parameters (15 min, 90% power, 202 mg/mL powder-to-oil ratio), yielding an enriched PSO with significantly enhanced total phenolic content (TPC: 69.23 ± 1.66 mg GAE/g), total flavonoid content (TFC: 61.09 ± 1.66 mg QE/g), and robust DPPH antioxidant activity (78.63 ± 3.81%). The enriched oil exhibited enhanced oxidative stability (peroxide value: 5.75 ± 0.30 meq O₂/kg vs. 50.95 ± 0.07 meq O₂/kg for neutral oil), improved fatty acid profile, and significant anti-inflammatory (IC₅₀ = 897.25 µg/mL for NO inhibition) and antibacterial activities. Alginate nanobeads (432.46 ± 12.59 nm, zeta potential: −30.74 ± 3.20 mV) ensured bioactivity preservation, while the hydrogel maintained physicochemical and microbial stability over 60 days under accelerated conditions (40 ± 2 °C, 75 ± 5% RH). This multifunctional formulation, integrating sustainable extraction, advanced encapsulation, and a minimalist delivery system, represents a highly promising natural ingredient for anti-aging and antioxidant cosmetic applications.

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its lactate form to enhance water solubility and enable nanoparticle formation at physiological pH via ionic gelation with citric acid. The formulation was optimized using Box–Behnken response surface methodology to achieve minimal particle size and maximal zeta potential. The final gel was structured with xanthan gum as the gelling polymer, into which the optimized nanoparticles were incorporated to create a stable and bioactive hydrogel system. Encapsulation efficiency was measured separately to assess the effectiveness of drug loading. The optimized nanoparticles exhibited a mean diameter of 422.02 nm, a zeta potential of +29.49 mV, and a high quercetin encapsulation efficiency (76.9%), corresponding to the proportion of quercetin retained in the nanoparticle matrix relative to the total amount initially used in the formulation. Antioxidant assays (TAC, DPPH, and reducing power) confirmed superior radical-scavenging activity of the nanoformulation compared to the base hydrogel. Antibacterial tests showed strong inhibition against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus, with MIC values comparable to streptomycin. Accelerated stability studies demonstrated excellent physicochemical and microbiological stability over 60 days. This natural, bioactive, and eco-friendly formulation represents a promising platform for next-generation cosmeceuticals targeting oxidative stress and skin-related pathogens.

The study aimed to evaluate the quality of the coated freeze-dried chicken meat using gelatin-chitosan film enriched with Tunisian rosemary extract. The quality was evaluated on the basis of physical and barrier properties, as well as lipid oxidation for coated and uncoated chicken meat. Chicken breast meat was cut into small pieces, pasteurized, and coated with the active film solution. The active gelatin-chitosan film enriched was prepared with different concentrations of rosemary extract (0 to 2%). The application of the coating solution, with or without ultrasonic treatment was conducted. Subsequently, the samples were subjected to freeze drying for 72 h. The water activity, color, hygroscopic, and rehydration properties of the freeze-dried coated meat were measured. Moreover, the lipid oxidation of the coated vs. uncoated meat was also investigated during a 6 month storage period. Results showed that the coating can form a non-porous surface, which resists the exchange of water vapor, thereby decreasing hygroscopicity and rehydration rates. Likewise, the reduction in the color change and the level of malondialdehyde proved that the active coating allowed good preservation of the meat samples against lipid oxidation during the storage period. However, the application of coating with the use of ultrasound treatment did not positively affect lipid oxidation reduction, and an even higher value was observed in comparison to samples immersed in film forming solutions without ultrasound treatment. It can be concluded that the phenolic compounds incorporated into the film matrix had antioxidant activity, minimizing the extent of lipid oxidation in foods.

This study focuses on optimizing the extraction conditions for antioxidants from the fenugreek seeds (Trigonella foenum-graecum L.) through ultrasound-assisted extraction with the aim of creating a stable and effective cosmetic formulation. RSM was used to optimize the extraction parameters to ultrasonic power of 60%, with 50% ethanol concentration for 10 min. Under those conditions, the extract showed a phenolic-rich profile, with a total phenolic content equivalent to 18.56 mg GAE/g DM and a radical scavenging activity of 63.24%. Chromatographic analysis further confirmed the abundance of phenolic compounds, with epicatechin identified as the major compound at a concentration of 22.58 mg/g DM. The extract exhibited considerable antibacterial activity for a number of bacterial strains, and it exhibited no cell toxicity on RAW 267.4 cells, supporting its safe use in cosmetic products. The cosmetic formulation maintained high stability, with pH values from 6.25 to 6.35, viscosity values from 7941.69 to 7956.70 cp, and less color change after 90 days of preservation under varied temperature conditions. These findings validate fenugreek extract’s potential for producing a stable, eco-friendly, and effective cosmetic product, thus bringing skin health benefits and driving sustainable extraction methods in the cosmetic industry.

This study focuses on optimizing the extraction conditions for antioxidants from the fenugreek seeds (Trigonella foenum-graecum L.) through ultrasound-assisted extraction in the aim of creating a stable and effective cosmetic formulation. RSM was used to optimize the extraction parameters to ultrasonic power of 60%, with 50% ethanol concentration for 10 min. Under those conditions, the extract showed a phenolic-rich profile, with a total phenolic content equivalent to 18.56 mg GAE/g DM and a radical scavenging activity of 63.24%. Chromatographic analysis further confirmed the abundance of phenolic compounds, with epicatechin identified as the major compound at a concentration of 22.58 mg/g DM. The extract exhibited considerable antibacterial activity for a number of bacterial strains and it exhibited no cell toxicity on RAW 267.4 cells, supporting its safe use in cosmetic products. The cosmetic formulation maintained high stability, with pH values from 6.25 to 6.35, viscosity values from 7941.69 to 7956.70 cp, and less color change after 90 days preservation under varied temperature conditions. These findings validate fenugreek extract potential for producing a stable, eco-friendly, and effective cosmetic product, thus bringing skin health benefit and driving sustainable extraction methods in the cosmetic industry.

The present study aimed to investigate the qualitative and quantitative performance of five green solvents, namely 2-methyltetrahydrofuran (MeTHF), cyclopentyl methyl ether (CPME), p-cymene, d-limonene and ethanol to substitute n-hexane, for sesame seed oil extraction. In fact, both CPME and MeTHF gave higher crude yields than n-hexane (58.82, 54.91 and 50.84%, respectively). The fatty acid profile of the sesame seed oils remained constant across all the solvent systems, with a predominance of oleic acid (39.27–44.35%) and linoleic acid (38.88–43.99%). The total sterols gained the upmost amount with CPME (785 mg/100 g oil) and MeTHF (641 mg/100 g oil). CPME and MeTHF were also characterized by the optimum content of tocopherols (52.3 and 50.6 mg/100 g oil, respectively). The highest contents of total phenols in the sesame seed oils were extracted by CPME (23.51 mg GAE/g) and MeTHF (22.53 mg GAE/g) as compared to the other solvents, especially n-hexane (8 mg GAE/g). Additionally, sesame seed oils extracted by MeTHF and CPME also had the highest antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties as compared to the other green solvents and n-hexane, encouraging their manufacturing use for sesame seed oil extraction.