Monika Trepa

Fungal-derived compounds are attracting increasing interest in cosmetic science because of their chemical diversity, multifunctional biological activity, and suitability for controlled biotechnological production. Macrofungi produce a wide range of bioactive metabolites, including polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, terpenoids, sterols, and pigments, many of which exhibit antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, photoprotective, and barrier-supporting properties relevant to skin health. However, current research is largely limited to isolated metabolites and simplified in vitro models, whereas comparatively little attention has been paid to the performance of fungal-derived compounds in finished cosmetic formulations. In practice, cosmetic efficacy depends not only on biological activity but also on extraction methods, physicochemical stability, formulation compatibility, and delivery efficiency. This review examines fungal-derived bioactive compounds from the perspective of cosmetic formulation and industrial applicability. It discusses how cultivation conditions, extraction procedures, and formulation design influence stability, bioavailability, and cosmetic performance, and critically evaluates extraction technologies, fermentation systems, encapsulation strategies, lipid carriers, hydrogels, and nanoscale delivery platforms. The review also addresses major limitations, including oxidative instability, variability in metabolite composition, limited penetration of high-molecular-weight compounds, and insufficient standardization and clinical validation. Although fungal-derived compounds show considerable promise for multifunctional cosmetic formulations, their broader industrial application will require improved standardization, optimized formulation strategies, and robust clinical evaluation of efficacy and safety.

Meripilus giganteus (Pers.) P. Karst. is a basidiomycete fungus known for its bioactive properties, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and cytotoxic effects. Although research has largely focused on fruiting bodies, mycelium obtained through in vitro culture offers a sustainable and potentially scalable source of bioactive metabolites. This study aimed to compare the chemical composition and biological activity of extracts from the fruiting bodies and mycelium of M. giganteus. Key compound groups were analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and biological activity was assessed through DPPH and ABTS antioxidant assays and MTT-based cytotoxicity testing on human gastrointestinal cancer and normal colon epithelial cell lines. The results revealed distinct metabolite profiles between fungal forms and demonstrated that solvent type strongly influenced extraction efficiency. Cytotoxicity assays indicated moderate activity of both extract types, with some selectivity towards colorectal cancer cell lines. These findings suggest that M. giganteus mycelium may serve as a promising alternative to fruiting bodies for the production of antioxidant and potentially chemopreventive compounds. Further studies are recommended to optimize cultivation and extraction conditions to enhance both metabolite yield and biological activity.

Ruta corsica is a rare and endemic plant native to Corsica. Due to its limited distribution and the priority to preserve natural sites, has been insufficiently studied. In vitro cultures provide an opportunity to research R. corsica under controlled conditions. In the present study, in vitro cultures of R. corsica were conducted in Plantform^TM bioreactors. The study aimed to assess the effects of growth cycle length (5 and 6 weeks) and different concentrations of plant growth regulators (NAA and BAP) at 0.1/0.1, 0.1/0.5, 0.5/0.5, 0.5/1.0, and 1.0/1.0 mg/L on biomass growth and secondary metabolite accumulation. HPLC analysis identified compounds in the furanocoumarin and furoquinoline alkaloid groups, with furanocoumarins being the primary secondary metabolites (maximum total content: 1571.5 mg/100 g DW). Among them, xanthotoxin, psoralen, and bergapten were dominant, with maximum concentrations of 588.1, 426.6, and 325.2 mg/100 g DW, respectively. The maximum total content of furoquinoline alkaloids was 661 mg/100 g DW, with γ-fagarine as the primary metabolite, reaching 448 mg/100 g DW. The optimal conditions for secondary metabolite accumulation in R. corsica cultures were a 5-week growth cycle and the LS 0.1/0.1 medium variant.

Terpenes and their derivatives comprise a diverse group of natural compounds with versatile medicinal properties. This article elucidates the general characteristics of fungal terpenes and terpenoids, encompassing their structure and biogenesis. The focal point of this work involves a comprehensive overview of these compounds, highlighting their therapeutic properties, mechanisms of action, and potential applications in treating specific skin conditions. Numerous isolated terpenes and terpenoids have demonstrated noteworthy anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial effects, rivalling or surpassing the efficacy of currently employed treatments for inflammation or skin infections. Due to their well-documented antioxidant and anti-cancer attributes, these compounds exhibit promise in both preventing and treating skin cancer. Terpenes and terpenoids sourced from fungi display the capability to inhibit tyrosinase, suggesting potential applications in addressing skin pigmentation disorders and cancers linked to melanogenesis dysfunctions. This paper further disseminates the findings of clinical and in vivo research on fungal terpenes and terpenoids conducted thus far.