Marija Pešić

Ultrasonic technology is successfully used manufacturing wide variety of apparel and technical textile goods.It is suitable for synthetic fabrics due to their low melting points and ability to absorb ultrasonic energy efficiently. Two main types of ultrasonic textile equipment used are: roll seam machines and platen presses. Using ultrasonic technology can be performed textile seam welding, cutting, lamination, punching, embossing, lacing, riveting, inserting. Comparing with traditional sewing method ultrasonic technology can ensure several advantages: higher processing speed, higher strength of seams, and ability to create waterproof and airtight seams. Advantages that support sustainable garment manufacturing goals are: reduced waste and energy use, improved fabric recyclability, improved workplace environments for the industrial workforce.

For nearly a century a construction and materials of the zippers are constantly improved, however significant innovative changes has been offered only during the last decade. Increased functionality zippers are developed to support water and airproof properties of final textile goods, to ease their closing and opening process and to extend the life cycle of zippers making them repairable by their users. Sustainable zippers are made from recycled or bio-based polyester and nylon while their tapes can be woven from organic cotton, linen or hump. Finishing process of metal teeth is done using low-emission coatings. The raw materials, production methods or disposal ways of eco-friendly zippers support environmental protection aims. The leading zipper company YKK has developed the most revolutionary solutions, such us, toothless zippers, tapeless zippers, touch-link and self-propelled zippers.

The development of digital technologies has enabled the analysis of the behavior of clothing products in a virtual environment using 3D simulation. One of the important factors in these simulations is the digital avatar, whose characteristics can affect the interaction between clothing and the body. The aim of this work was to examine the influence of the avatar type and its surface characteristics on the clothing fit and stress distribution during 3D simulation. The simulation was conducted in the Browzwear V-Stitcher software on a dress model made of 100% cotton rib knit (2×2 rib) and interlock. The analysis included two types of avatars (hard and soft Olivia) and three types of avatar surfaces (human, plastic and fabric). The results show that the highest stress values are recorded in the chest area, while the differences between the avatar surfaces are relatively small. At the same time, it was observed that the deformability of the soft avatar affects the contact between clothing and the body and allows for a more natural fall and draping of the material compared to a rigid avatar.

Waterproof zippers are critical components of many final waterproof products used across industries. They are manufactured from special materials using advanced technologies. The tape of a zipper is coated with hydrophobic PU or TPU polymers. The zipper is attached to the finished waterproof product using welded seams. The molded teeth of a waterproof zipper are designed with very high precision from flexible plastic or rubber. The teeth of the coil zippers are placed on the reverse side. Toothless, waterproof zippers use rails instead of teeth. Waterproof zippers are marked with IPX6, IPX7, and IPX8 Ingress protection codes. Highest IP code zippers are also airtight. There are also water-repellent and water-resistant zippers available in the market, which have lower-level protection against water penetration.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the thermophysiological comfort of pineapple bio-based nonwoven material as a sustainable alternative to natural leather and synthetic polymer-coated materials by analyzing both the objective parameters of the material and subjective user feedback by wearing a skirt made from the same material. Considering the increasing demand for sustainable materials alternatives, the study aims to determine whether this material can offer acceptable comfort during wear. The research included two commercially available pineapple, bio-based, nonwoven materials that differed in their finishing. Sample S1 contained 5% Bio-PU and 5% conventional PU, and sample S2 contained 10% conventional PU. Objective parameters such as thermal resistance (R_ct), water vapor resistance (Ret) and air permeability were measured. For the subjective evaluation, ten female subjects wore the pineapple bio-based material skirts under controlled environmental conditions. Sample S1 showed lower R_ct values and slightly lower Ret combined with higher air permeability, which correlated with better subjective comfort evaluation. Although both samples showed high R_et values (S1 = 60.57 Pa²/W; S2 = 84.80 m²K/W) indicating limited vapor transfer, sample S1 was perceived as more comfortable, which was effected by better air permeability (S1 = 11.3 mm/s; S2 = 2.65 mm/s). Overall, S1 is more suitable for indoor use and for a shorter wear duration, while S2 may be better for cooler outdoor environments.

The work deals with the problem of excessive generation of textile waste in the fashion industry, with a special focus on the stages of design and production of clothing. Modern methods and digital technologies that enable waste minimization are analyzed, including zero-waste design, 3D simulations, digital prototyping and artificial intelligence. Special attention is paid to CLO 3D and Audaces software solutions, which enable more precise tailoring, optimization of material consumption and more efficient production of clothing. The implementation of these technologies contributes to sustainability, reducing the negative impact on the environment and moving towards a circular model of the fashion industry.

Considering the rapid changes in the fashion and clothing industry, digital technologies represent an important tool for improving the efficiency and sustainability of production processes. This paper explores the application of 3D software tools in the skirt design process, with a particular focus on time savings, waste reduction, and visualization capabilities prior to making the first trial sample. Using CLO 3D software, a digital model of the skirt was developed and compared with the conventional approach in Modaris software. The analysis includes a comparison of the duration of production, flexibility during changes, visual control. The conducted analyse show that the 3D construction and visualzation enables faster design iteration and a reduction in the number of sewn first samples, which contributes to sustainability through a more rational use of materials. It can be concluded that the integration of 3D programs for the construction and visualization of garments represents a significant step towards the digital transformation of the fashion industry.

Chemically recycled textile waste can be used to manufacture new textile products. It can ensure up cycling process. Two groups of chemical recycling are: recycling at the polymer level and recycling at the monomer level. The basic steps of chemical recycling process are: preparation, cleaning and recycling of the waste. Chemical recycling technologies have been developed for the processing of cotton, polyester and poly-cotton. Currently, the most part of chemical recycling companies operate at their research centers and first pilot factories, and still improve their recycling methods. Chemical recycling technologies will be commercially effective in the next 5-10 years. Innovative textile waste recycling companies in Europe are: Renewcell/Circulose, Infi nite Fiber Company, SaXcell, Södra, Worn Again Technologies, Carbios (France), Erema.

Textile researchers and interlining manufacturers constantly improve their offerings and invent new solutions. French company Chargeurs and German company Freudenberg are leaders in the market with their product innovations. Currently, the most important development directions are stated for sustainable interlinings, lightweight interlinings, high elasticity interlinings, heat-sensitive interlinings and increased bonding strength interlinings. Many producers manufacture interlinings from recycled materials: polyester, thermoplastic elastomers, polyamide (PA), cotton, and wool. Few advanced ones are announced as biodegradable products. The new interlinings can be fused at lower temperatures, thus supporting the energy saving concept. Very light interlinings are developed to manufacture garments form very light or even transparent fabrics. Special high-elasticity interlinings are created to manufacture highly comfortable active wear, underwear, and casual clothing. Enzyme wash interlinings are manufactured from hot melt PA adhesive powder to withstand garments’ high washing and dyeing temperatures. Water-soluble base material interlinings replace traditional tear-away stabilizers, creating embroideries. Water-soluble resin interlinings can be used to create casual and vintage-looking garments.

During mechanical recycling several mechanical treatments are used to degrade textile waste and make it ready for new application in different other industries. Mechanical recycling process consists of several work steps. Pre or post-consumer textile waste is firstly cut in small pieces by a shredding machine. Blending boxes with different storage capacities are used to blend cut textile waste. A feeding unit is placed in between a blending box and a tearing machine. Tearing machines separate individual fibers by tearing small pieces of shredded textile material apart. At the end of the textile recycling process the opened fibers are compressed in needed size bundles to store and transport for their further use. Insufficiently sorted waste is the most serious problem that complicates mechanical recycling processes, reduces the quality of recycled fibers. Currently there are not available efficient methods to recycle coated, laminated textiles and materials with elastan. Compared with other recycling methods the mechanical recycling of textile waste has already decades of experience, it is the most developed, most widely used, requires much lower investments and energy resources.