Mihaela Nechifor (Tudorache)

This study aims to develop and characterize novel dermatocosmetic formulations designed to hydrate the skin, improve its appearance, reduce wrinkles, and provide antioxidant, anti-ageing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory benefits, along with potential protection against UVA and UVB radiation. The formulations contain the following ingredients: xanthan gum (0.5%), Calendula officinalis oil (5%), Argania spinosa oil (5%), Helianthus annuus oil (5%), liposomes containing a hydroalcoholic extract of pomace from local red or white grapes (2%), an olive oil-based emulsifier (6%), vitamin E (0.5%), cetearyl alcohol (3%), propylene glycol (8%), and purified water (up to 100%). The natural ingredients used in these formulations, i.e., the red or white grape pomace extract from the aforementioned Romanian varieties, the oils of Calendula officinalis, Argania spinosa, and Helianthus annuus, xanthan gum, and the olive oil-based emulsifier (Olliva), promote the concept of ‘green cosmetics’. The use of liposomes to deliver bioactive substances from hydroalcoholic extracts allows the gradual release of active ingredients into the skin. An alternative for incorporating grape pomace extract into a cream-type matrix involves the use of liposomes. Liposomes loaded with red or white grape pomace extract were prepared using the thin-film hydration technique, followed by ultrasonication and extrusion. The obtained formulations were characterized using bio-physico-chemical analysis procedures in terms of consistency, colour, homogeneity, aroma, pH, stretch, texture, stability, and antioxidant activity/free radical scavenging capacity, as well as in vitro polyphenol release behaviour. These newly developed dermatocosmetic formulations were the subject of a patent application in Romania.

Due to its valuable organic compounds, grape pomace represents a valuable resource in the creation of value-added food products. In this study, we investigated grape pomace hydroalcoholic extracts obtained by ultrasonication from two white and two red Romanian grape varieties. The phytochemical parameters, i.e., polyphenolics, flavonoids, anthocyanins, condensed tannins content, and antioxidant activity, were determined by UV-Vis spectrometry. The statistical analysis revealed that Tămâioasă Românească and Negru de Drăgășani, respectively, and Fetească Albă and Fetească Neagră are similar to each other. Significant differences among the pomaces obtained from different grape varieties were noticed in terms of their phenolic contents. The red varieties (Fetească Neagră and Negru de Drăgășani) were richest in terms of total phenolics and total anthocyanins, respectively. The antioxidant activity of extracts obtained from grape pomace showed that Negru de Drăgășani had the higher value due to its high amounts of polyphenols, followed by Fetească Neagră, Fetească Albă, and Tămâioasă Românească. Higher levels of bioactive polyphenolic substances, i.e., catechin, myricetin, resveratrol, and vanillic acid, were found in the pomace of Negru de Drăgășani extracts using high-performance liquid chromatography. These results emphasize the potential of the Negru de Drăgășani variety to be further exploited for nutritional and functional applications.