Pierfrancesco Morganti

Lignin and chitin are abundant structural biopolymers that can be recovered from wood-processing, agricultural, fishery and other biological residues. Their conversion into nanoparticles, nanocrystals or nanofibrils provides opportunities to combine carrier functions with properties intrinsic to the polymers. This review examines the chemical structures, biological organization, isolation routes and nanostructuring methods of lignin and chitin, and relates these features to their potential use in cosmetic and nutraceutical delivery systems. Particular attention is given to the influence of raw material source and processing on particle morphology, surface chemistry, colloidal stability and functional performance. The UV-screening and antioxidant properties of nanolignin are discussed alongside the structural and surface-charge characteristics of nanochitin. Polyelectrolyte complexation is considered as an assembly strategy within this broader framework, with examples based on either polymer or chitin nanofibril–nanolignin complexes. Electrospun non-woven carriers and related delivery formats illustrate how these materials can be incorporated into functional products. Finally, the review identifies the characterization, safety, regulatory, manufacturing and environmental challenges that must be addressed before these very promising materials can be widely used in cosmetic and nutraceutical applications.

Chitin nanofibrils (CNs) and lignin nanoparticles (LNPs) are renewable nanomaterials whose complementary surface chemistry enables the formation of chitin nanofibril–nanolignin (CN–NL) complexes. This review addresses a specific gap in the literature by linking the source and preparation of each component to surface charge, complexation conditions, processing, and application-level performance. Conventional and emerging CN and LNP production routes are compared critically in terms of morphology, surface chemistry, yield, scalability, energy and solvent demand, and compatibility with subsequent assembly. Available quantitative evidence indicates that electrostatic attraction is the principal interaction under mildly acidic conditions, while hydrogen bonding and hydrophobic interactions provide secondary contributions. Reported CN–NL carrier formulations commonly use a 2:1 CN:NL mass ratio, but this value has not been established as universally optimal; similarly, encapsulation efficiency, release kinetics, storage stability, and scale-up economics remain insufficiently quantified. The strongest direct evidence concerns skin-contact and wound-related systems, whereas nutraceutical and agricultural uses remain prospective. Safety, biodegradation, lifecycle, and regulatory requirements are therefore evaluated separately from performance claims. Overall, CN–NL complexes are a promising multifunctional platform, but translation requires standardized characterization and application-specific validation rather than assuming functionality or sustainability from their bio-based origin alone.

R&D is a fundamental means for driving innovation in the market, maintaining competitive advantages and ensuring long-term business and sustainability. For this purpose, it is considered necessary to find new opportunities for making novel products in the fields of cosmetics (cosmeceuticals) and diet supplements (nutraceuticals), remembering that scientific research is organized in three phases: basic, applied and industrial. After explaining the significance of these phases, this paper will discuss the physical, mental, spiritual, emotional, social, economic and environmental global conditions for trying to achieve healthy beauty together with wellness, wellbeing, wealth and longevity by the so-called Beauty from Within (BW) notion, following actual consumer demand and the cosme-nutraceutical market. According to the BW rules, in fact, to obtain real healthy beauty, it is necessary to simultaneously use the same ingredients applied on the skin surface via a cosmetic product (cosmeceutical) and taken via the oral route through a specific diet supplement (nutraceutical). For this purpose, our research group is proposing specialized tissue-carriers to be used as alternative vehicles in partial substitution of the actual emulsions. The effectiveness of these novel natural and biodegradable skin- and eco-friendly vehicles, used to load, carry and release selected active ingredients by innovative cosme-nutraceuticals, has been supported and controlled by in vitro and in vivo studies. Therefore, they might be useful for safeguarding global human health and the body’s microbiome and maintaining environmental integrity. The majority of cosmetics and diet supplements, in fact, are using various emulsions as vehicles that contain different kinds of chemicals, such as preservatives, emulsifiers, fragrances and other ingredients, which often cause skin allergies and sensitization phenomena. Moreover, the majority of these cosme-nutraceuticals are packed in non-biodegradable plastic containers, unlike our proposed products, which are packed in biodegradable paper or aluminum foil. Thus, these novel cosme-nutraceuticals, made from natural polymers and ingredients and packed in plastic-free containers, are 100% biodegradable and characterized by significant effectiveness and safety. Moreover, this category of cosmetics seems capable of supporting cell adhesion, proliferation and differentiation, reinforcing their intercommunication, increasing ECM activity, maintaining AMP activity, and reducing the onset of the reported irritative phenomena, thus safeguarding the environmental microbiome’s integrity and the Earth’s biodiversity. This statement was supported by different in vitro and in vivo studies regarding both the ingredients and packaging used.

Aging is defined as the accumulation of damage, and several factors have been recognized as “factors of aging”. A sensible holistic approach is appropriate to reduce the rate of accumulation of damage, while maintaining the well-being of the individual. The holistic approach of L-Raphael defines seven fields of intervention: Outdoor management, Physical management, Medical management, Nutritional management, Stress management, Aesthetic management, and Leisure management. These interventions apply to skin aging as well. Perhaps all of the known factors of skin aging induce the synthesis of intercellular adhesion molecule 1 (I-CAM 1) in endothelial cells. I-CAM 1 molecules bind circulating immune cells, who then exit the blood vessels, enter the dermis, and initiate an inflammatory process, which entails three oxidative bursts and the release of proteolytic enzymes. The micro-inflammatory theory of skin aging describes the different factors that accelerate the rate of aging and recommends biochemical interventions. These biochemical interventions fit the seven holistic managements quoted above. The principal factor of skin aging is known to be solar exposure, which generates DNA damage that triggers an inflammatory reaction. Hence the importance of Outdoor management that recommends protecting against UV and using boosters of DNA repair such as Nicotinamide. Anoxia associated with stationary standing positions induces the synthesis of I-CAM and consequently of varicose veins and of spider veins. Well-managed physical exercise is therefore recommended to avoid the onset of anoxia. Medical management of cutaneous hygiene helps avoid the damage provoked by the response to local infections. Tailored targeting of the skin microbiome might be an additional tool in that sense. Glycated proteins induce I-CAM 1. The skin of people with diabetes is particularly affected, and nutrition management could avoid favoring conditions that facilitate protein glycation. Psychological stress provokes the release of I-CAM 1-inducing neuropeptides in the skin. Stress management is very important to maintain skin inflammation-free. The aesthetics of the skin suffer because of tobacco smoking. This is especially true when the skin is exposed to UV. Tobacco smoke is vasoconstrictive and reduces nutrient supply to the skin. Undernourished cells undergo necrosis and trigger inflammatory responses. Leisure management and balanced time use are crucial. Sleep deprivation does negatively affect skin health, and sleep is a necessary condition for global well-being.

The aging process is a complex succession of biological phenomena that, among others, cause epidermal thinning with a slowdown of its turnover. Concurrently, the dermis loses collagen and elastin, leading to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the faces of both women and men who desire to maintain a youthful appearance and achieve a longer life. Consequently, there is a widespread pursuit of rejuvenation through the use of cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals, aligning with the concept of “Beauty from Within”. This approach involves the contemporary use of the same active ingredients, applied topically via cosmetics and ingested orally through dietary supplements. This paper, by examining the structure and functions of the skin and mucous membranes and their associated aging phenomena, emphasizes the necessity of developing products that are effective and safe. Such products must possess the capacity to cross the barriers of these biological structures without provoking any side effects. To this end, novel tissue-carriers, fabricated from biodegradable polymers, are proposed as an integrated solution, creating advanced cosme-nutraceuticals that are not only highly effective and skin-friendly but also address the critical environmental challenge of plastic waste.

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The present review was conducted to investigate the possibilities in realizing novel nanostructured tissues containing functional molecules that can be commercialized as solid products (without using emulsifiers and preservatives) for cosmeceutical and nutraceutical applications. After considering the principal concepts regarding skin and mucous features and physiologies, the possibilities in using bio-based, biodegradable and biocompatible materials was explored by investigating the correlations between their structures and morphologies with respect to the characteristics of the skin extracellular matrix (ECM). Regarding the new smart type of biodegradable tissues, their possible composition was reviewed in relation to the skin aging process and to the current contest for novel, innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals that consider the “beauty from within” concept. The barriers to the development of these new tissues were mainly identified due the necessity in defining the claim regarding green products. Moreover, the market growth data regarding these novel products were highlighted to support the idea that the diffusion of smart tissue-based cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals is an opportunity for new sustainable industrial chains in the development of bioeconomies.

More sustainable and smart cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are necessary due to the ecological transition. In this study, a pullulan-based water solution containing chitin nanofibril–nano-lignin (CN-LG) complexes that encapsulate fish collagen polypeptide, allantoin and nicotinamide was electrospun onto a nonwoven substrate made of bamboo fibers to obtain a smart nanostructured bilayer system for releasing active molecules onto the skin or other body tissues. Infrared spectroscopy was used to characterize the composition of the bilayer system before and after rapid washing of the sample with distilled water and liquids mimicking physiological fluids. The viability of keratinocytes was studied as well as the antioxidant activity, protective activity towards UV light, metalloproteinase release of aged fibroblasts and the inhibitor activity against collagen degradation. Immunomodulatory tests were performed to investigate the anti-inflammatory activity of the bilayer system as well as its indirect antimicrobial activity. The results indicate that the bilayer system can be used in the production of innovative sustainable cosmeceuticals. In general, the adopted strategy can be extended to several smart treatments for fast release that can be commercialized as solid products, thus avoiding the use of preservatives and water.

Bioactive biodegradable chitosan films containing chitin nanofibrils have been developed for use as face masks in cosmetology. It was found that thermal modification of chitosan films promotes the transformation of the polymer into insoluble form without the use of alkali or aldehydes. The structure and properties of the films were studied by IT spectroscopy, atomic force microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis, and X-ray structural analysis. Analysis of infrared (IR) spectra showed that the addition of nanofibrils accelerates the process of thermal transformation in the composite films. This is apparent from the observed increase in the intensity ratio of 1030 cm⁻¹\1580 cm⁻¹ peaks in the spectrum of the thermally treated film (as compared to the spectrum of the initial sample and the spectrum of a chitosan film without chitin nanofibrils). The prepared composite films containing chitin nanofibrils possess improved mechanical characteristics: tensile strength 99 MPa and tensile strain 14%. The tetrazolium bromide (MTT) test revealed good viability of human dermal fibroblasts cultivated in the presence of the conditioned medium obtained after incubation of all types of films in the nutrient medium. The used process of thermal modification of chitosan and composite films (which is efficient and environmentally safe) allows one to prepare bioactive materials for applications in medicine and cosmetology.