Gianluca Morganti

The present review was conducted to investigate the possibilities in realizing novel nanostructured tissues containing functional molecules that can be commercialized as solid products (without using emulsifiers and preservatives) for cosmeceutical and nutraceutical applications. After considering the principal concepts regarding skin and mucous features and physiologies, the possibilities in using bio-based, biodegradable and biocompatible materials was explored by investigating the correlations between their structures and morphologies with respect to the characteristics of the skin extracellular matrix (ECM). Regarding the new smart type of biodegradable tissues, their possible composition was reviewed in relation to the skin aging process and to the current contest for novel, innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals that consider the “beauty from within” concept. The barriers to the development of these new tissues were mainly identified due the necessity in defining the claim regarding green products. Moreover, the market growth data regarding these novel products were highlighted to support the idea that the diffusion of smart tissue-based cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals is an opportunity for new sustainable industrial chains in the development of bioeconomies.

More sustainable and smart cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are necessary due to the ecological transition. In this study, a pullulan-based water solution containing chitin nanofibril–nano-lignin (CN-LG) complexes that encapsulate fish collagen polypeptide, allantoin and nicotinamide was electrospun onto a nonwoven substrate made of bamboo fibers to obtain a smart nanostructured bilayer system for releasing active molecules onto the skin or other body tissues. Infrared spectroscopy was used to characterize the composition of the bilayer system before and after rapid washing of the sample with distilled water and liquids mimicking physiological fluids. The viability of keratinocytes was studied as well as the antioxidant activity, protective activity towards UV light, metalloproteinase release of aged fibroblasts and the inhibitor activity against collagen degradation. Immunomodulatory tests were performed to investigate the anti-inflammatory activity of the bilayer system as well as its indirect antimicrobial activity. The results indicate that the bilayer system can be used in the production of innovative sustainable cosmeceuticals. In general, the adopted strategy can be extended to several smart treatments for fast release that can be commercialized as solid products, thus avoiding the use of preservatives and water.

Beauty and personal care became a significant part of the global economy for two reasons: (1) The elderly growing in the global population and (2) the desire of women and men to appear younger and more attractive. Thus, both young and old people are looking for revolutionary nutritional eco-cosmetics (combined use of cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals) manufactured by natural active ingredients, using biopolymers as substrates, and made by innovative and sustainable technologies. Consequently, the market of both cosmetics and diet supplements is continually growing together with the request of natural active ingredients, including bio-peptides and biological macromolecules such as chitin and lignin. Therefore, both consumers and industry need to recover innovative active ingredients and carriers (vehicles), naturally derived and supported by advanced methods for controlling their effectiveness and safeness on skin and mucous membrane layers. The use of selected bio-ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and bio-mimetic peptides, obtained by advanced, innovative and sustainable bio nanotechnologies, will be of interest to develop smart cosmeceutical and nutraceutical formulations. Innovation is considered the key business strategy to drive sustainable economic growth. For trying to reduce waste and produce sustainable, biodegradable and innovative products, the realization of new non-woven tissues, used as carriers for making innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals was considered. Both carriers and active ingredients have been obtained from food waste to reduce loss and pollution. This review will report a brief description of the skin functions, trying also to focus and discuss some of the active ingredients and carriers used in nutritional eco-cosmetics to clarify the supposed mechanism of action, effectiveness and safeness of both active ingredients and carriers, as well as the supposed activity of beauty and personal care products.

Approximately 75% of textile waste is generated annually worldwide, as there is a dearth of viable recycling strategies. It has been estimated that textile industries can be responsible for approximately 20% of global water pollution. As a consequence, if not properly managed, the cost of waste management of textile waste will be trillions of dollars annually. Moreover, the generated wastes are detrimental to the environment and public health. On the other hand, there is a possibility that the majority of the waste can be recycled to obtain, for example, natural polysaccharides that can be used to produce biodegradable tissues, films, and goods. These innovative tissues, constituted by chitin nanofibrils (CN) complexed with nanolignin (LG) bound to natural polysaccharide-based polymers, may be used as innovative cosmetic green carriers and novel biodegradable food packaging in line with the consumers requests. Consumers, in fact, are looking for biodegradable apparel, footwear, and natural cosmetics for the betterment of health and the environment, and thus, there is a demand for green cosmetics.

Due to pollution and climate-change fear, further increased by the COVID19 pandemic, consumers are looking for body and mind health by the request of more effective and safe products, including the anti-aging skincare cosmeceuticals.. The term “cosmeceuticals” was coined in 1962 as a fusion of cosmetic and pharmaceutical to cover a new class of products able to achieve aesthetic and drug-like benefits. They not only improve the skin’s appearance, but also treat different dermatological conditions, through a physiological activity, shown by in vitro and in vivo studies. This new category of cosmetics should contain no recognized drugs, but nonetheless have medicinal value. Consumers, in fact, are looking for products able to regenerate the skin and maintain not only a youthful appearance together with well-ness and well-being, but preserving the environment also. Consequently, they are searching for cosmetics and food made with high-quality natural ingredients, packaged with biodegradable materials and realized by sustainable technologies, possibly at zero waste. Consumers, in fact, are afraid of the pollution and plastics invading lands and oceans, causing many frequent disasters on our planet. New and smart tissues and films, made by polysaccharides and natural active ingredients, are proposed as innovative cosmeceuticals. These non-woven tissues, embedded by micro/nano complexes of chitin and lignin encapsulating different active ingredients, could represent a new category of vehicles that are characterized for their high effectiveness and safeness. Moreover, they do not induce allergic nor sensitizing phenomena, being biodegradable; skin- and environmentally friendly; and free of preservatives, emulsifiers, colors, fragrances and any kind of chemicals. Last but not least, polysaccharides, chitin and lignin may be obtained from industrial and agro-forestry waste, safeguarding the natural raw materials for the future generations.

According to previous research studies, consumers worldwide are searching for new natural-oriented hair products that are both skin and environmentally friendly. Worldwide waste and air pollution, with the consequent environmental disasters, represent the greatest risk to human health and economy, further increased by the COVID-19 pandemic. Among others, non-biodegradable molecules are present in hair products (fossil-based additives, surfactants, etc.) and macromolecules (plastics). Plastics waste is considered the most serious problem, representing a forecast amount of 460 million tons per year by 2030, 12% of which is reused or recycled. Most plastics consumed, therefore, go to landfills and incineration, also if their recycling is considered an important driver of industrial profitability. Thus, the use of biopolymers represents an interesting alternative to produce biodegradable goods and tissues. After an introduction to the worldwide waste problem and the hair structure, the present review proposes the possibility to make biodegradable tissues that, realized by chitin nanofibrils and nano-lignin as natural polymers, may be used to produce an innovative and smart cosmetic hairline. Chitin-derived compounds are considered interesting polymers to produce non-woven tissues able to repair the hair damages provoked by the aggressiveness of both the environment and some aggressive cosmetic treatments, such as setting, bleaching, permanent waving, and oxidative coloring. The possible activity, that positively charged polymers such as chitin could have, has been speculated, interfering with the constitution and organization of the hair fibrils’ structure, which is negatively charged. The possibility of selecting biopolymers for their packaging is also discussed. Moreover, the use of these biopolymers, obtained from forestry-agro-food waste, may be of help to safeguard the further consumption of natural raw materials, necessary for future generations, also maintaining the earth’s biodiversity.

The skin is the largest organ in the human body, acting as the first protective barrier against the external environment aggression, such as UV rays and atmospheric nanoparticulate pollutants. On the one hand, the skin employs different antioxidant agents to protect its natural oxidative balance. On the other hand, ageing phenomena are the main cause of skin barrier damages, leading to a disequilibrium in the physiological redox system. Thus, the necessity to find new innovative cosmetic means, such as biodegradable non-woven tissues able to load, carry and release active ingredients in the right skin layers. These innovative cosmetic tissues can not only protect the skin from toxic environmental agents, but may balance the natural skin barrier, also acting as anti-aging agents when their fibers are bound to the right ingredients. The proposed tissues, consisting of polysaccharide natural fibers made of chitin nanofibrils and nanochitin, seem to be an ideal candidate for the production of new and effective biofunctional textiles, also because they are able to mimic the skin’s extra cellular matrix (ECM) when electrospun. These innovative cosmeceuticals have shown the possibility of being used for food formulations as well as for topic anti-aging agents, having shown an interesting repairing effectiveness on skin and also on hair. Thus, they could be used both as active ingredient and as skin smart active carriers in substitution of normal emulsions, being also biodegradable, free of chemicals, and obtainable from waste material.