David M. Thompson

Storms are one of the main causes of coastal erosion, causing substantial property and infrastructure losses in coastal communities. Coastal erosion is particularly damaging in underrepresented communities that are unable to meet building and zoning regulations due to limited resources [Lam, 2014]. The United States Geological Survey (USGS) has developed a probabilistic assessment of hurricane-induced coastal erosion for sandy coastlines along the eastern United States and the Gulf of Mexico. However, the current USGS product incorporates an empirical equation with inputs of beach slope and deep-water wave height and period [Stockdon, 2006] to predict the wave runup. Though this is appropriate for open coast sandy beaches, it is not valid for the rocky and reef lined coasts of Puerto Rico due to their complex bathymetries, steep slopes, and large bottom roughness. To expand this tool to Puerto Rico, the USGS has created 1-dimensional XBeach [Roelvink, 2009] models around the island.

Models of alongshore sediment transport during quiescent conditions, storm‐driven barrier island morphology, and poststorm dune recovery are integrated to assess decadal barrier island evolution under scenarios of increased sea levels and variability in storminess (intensity and frequency). Model results indicate barrier island response regimes of keeping pace, narrowing, flattening, deflation (narrowing and flattening), and aggradation. Under lower storminess scenarios, more areas of the island experienced narrowing due to collision. Under higher storminess scenarios, more areas experienced flattening due to overwash and inundation. Both increased sea levels and increased storminess resulted in breaching when the majority of the island was not keeping pace and deflation was the dominant regime due to increased overtopping. Under the highest storminess scenario, the island was unable to recover elevation after storms and drowned in just 10 years.

Forecasting barrier island evolution provides coastal managers and stakeholders the ability to assess the resiliency of these important coastal environments that are home to both established communities and existing natural habitats. This study uses an established coupled model framework to assess how Dauphin Island, Alabama, responds to various storm and sea-level change scenarios, along with a suite of restoration measures, over the course of a decade. The coupled model framework uses validated models for long-term alongshore sediment transport (Delft 3D), short-term storm induced impacts (XBeach), as well as dune building and recovery (empirical dune growth model). This model framework was simulated with the various storm and sea-level change scenarios on a non-restored Dauphin Island, then a subset of the storm and sea-level change scenarios were applied to a suite of seven different restoration measures to determine how they would influence the morphologic evolution over a decadal period. Topographic and bathymetric changes captured in post-simulation digital elevation models were then passed on to partners for various simulations to determine the effects on habitat evolution and water quality as it relates to oyster reef and submerged aquatic vegetation.

First posted March 2, 2020 St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center U.S. Geological Survey 600 4th Street South St. Petersburg, FL 33701 Predicting the decadal evolution of barrier island systems is important for coastal managers who propose restoration or preservation alternatives aimed at increasing the resiliency of the island and its associated habitats or communities. Existing numerical models for simulating morphologic changes typically include either long-term (for example, longshore transport under quiescent conditions) or short-term (for example, storm-driven waves) processes, with limited capacity to predict the decadal time-scale that is often most relevant in coastal planning. As part of the Alabama Barrier Island Restoration Assessment, a methodology was developed to predict barrier island evolution on decadal time scales. The developed modeling scheme uses multiple models including (1) Delft3D; (2) the empirical dune growth model (EDGR); and (3) XBeach that run sequentially to simulate evolution of barrier island geomorphology. The model framework was developed and applied to hindcast the evolution of Dauphin Island, Alabama, between 2004 and 2015, and was assessed using lidar data over the same period.

Dauphin Island, Alabama, located in the Northern Gulf of Mexico just outside of Mobile Bay, is Alabama’s only barrier island and provides an array of historical, natural, and economic resources. The dynamic island shoreline of Dauphin Island evolved across time scales while constantly acted upon by waves and currents during both storms and calm periods. Reductions in the vulnerability and enhancements to the resiliency of Dauphin Island—through offshore sand placement, breach closure, berm construction, and other means—have been used to protect the island and its vital resources. Planning for a resilient Dauphin Island requires predicting the long-term evolution of the barrier island system and the dominant, temporally varying processes that influence it, including littoral alongshore sediment transport under typical wave conditions, beach and dune erosion, the island overwash and breaching that occur rapidly during storm events, and the recovery of primary sand dunes through Aeolian transport over decadal time scales. Littoral sediment transport within the Dauphin Island decadal-scale framework was simulated using the Delft-3D modeling software suite. The influences of wind, waves, water levels, and sediment transport are incorporated into the model. Model skill in the prediction of waves, water levels, currents, volumetric flow rates through inlets, and shoreline position was assessed by using a set of deterministic and statistical hindcast simulations. The Delft-3D modeling application described here can be coupled with validated models of storm-response and dune recovery to predict the evolution of Dauphin Island on decadal time scales.

Historical cross-shore positions of the shoreline and dune base were used as inputs for a Kalman filter algorithm to forecast the positions of these features in the year 2028. The beach width was also computed as the cross-shore distance between the forecasted 2028 shoreline and dune-base positions. While it does not evaluate the suitability of a nesting beach or identify optimal nesting habitat, the beach width can be used as a proxy for habitat availability. An analysis was conducted along the Florida Atlantic coast with an initial goal of demonstrating a method that combines available data for shoreline and dune positions with a Kalman Filter algorithm developed to predict decadal-scale shoreline evolution and then uses these features to define future beach width. This section of the southeastern United States hosts the largest assemblage of nesting loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta) in the world, in addition to other species, and critical habitat is designated as part of the species’ listing package under the Endangered Species Act of 1973 (16 U.S.C. ch. 35 § 1531 et seq) for most of the nesting beaches within the study area. This work introduces an approach to inform ecosystem services assessments using data typically derived for shoreline change and storm vulnerability models.

Topographic elevation data collected with airborne light detection and ranging (lidar) can be used to analyze short- and long-term changes to beach and dune systems. Analysis of multiple lidar datasets at Dauphin Island, Alabama, revealed systematic, island-wide elevation differences on the order of 10s of centimeters (cm) that were not attributable to real-world change and, therefore, were likely to represent systematic sampling offsets. These offsets vary between the datasets, but appear spatially consistent within a given survey. This report describes a method that was developed to identify and correct offsets between lidar datasets collected over the same site at different times so that true elevation changes over time, associated with sediment accumulation or erosion, can be analyzed.