Káren Gercyane Oliveira Bezerra

The shift toward sustainable cosmetic systems has become a strategic priority in response to rising environmental pressures, biodiversity loss, and regulatory demands for traceability and responsible sourcing. This review critically examines the Brazilian sustainability model in the cosmetics industry, focusing on three key pillars: (i) traceability and certification of origin aligned with international standards; (ii) community partnerships and equitable value sharing; and (iii) technological innovation tailored to local biodiversity contexts. It synthesizes scientific articles, regulatory documents, and industry reports published mainly between 2005 and 2025, including international certification schemes (COSMOS, ECOCERT, NATRUE, IBD) and Brazilian biodiversity laws. Quantitative export data show that Brazil’s cosmetic industry surpassed US$ 300 million in exports to major markets, emphasizing the global importance of sustainability-driven competitiveness. This study presents a conceptual framework combining biodiversity-based innovation, socio-environmental governance, and certification systems as a unique sustainability pathway distinct from traditional green cosmetic strategies. The review highlights technical challenges such as supply chain traceability, harmonization of international standards, regulatory asymmetries, and the scalability of community-based value chains. The findings indicate that Brazil’s model offers a hybrid sustainability architecture that combines biotechnological innovation, fair-benefit sharing mechanisms, and compliance with international standards. Future research should focus on quantitative impact assessment metrics, life-cycle evaluations of biodiversity-derived ingredients, and mechanisms for regulatory convergence to improve industrial scalability and global market integration.

This systematic review article provides a comprehensive and critical analysis of the use of bioinputs in sustainable agriculture, focusing on biosurfactants and absorbent polymers, particularly bacterial cellulose. The article contextualises the growing challenges in agricultural production due to population growth, climate change, and environmental limitations, highlighting the need for alternatives to traditional synthetic inputs that exert negative environmental impacts. The article details functions, types, and benefits, emphasising the ability of bioinputs to improve soil fertility, increase the efficiency of nutrient use, enhance plant resistance to biotic and abiotic stress, and reduce the ecological footprint of agriculture. Emerging biotechnologies are discussed, such as the combined use of biosurfactants with natural polymers to ensure sustainability and efficiency. This article offers an updated description of recent scientific and technological evidence and addresses the potential and limitations of these biological inputs in the global context of modern agriculture.

The growing demand for sustainable cosmetic products and the rapid expansion of the pet care market have driven the search for environmentally friendly, safe, and effective alternatives to conventional formulations. In this study, an ecofriendly solid shampoo for pets was developed using exclusively natural ingredients and a microbial biosurfactant produced by Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 as a surface-active component. The biosurfactant was combined with renewable anionic and nonionic surfactants, conditioning agents, natural oils and butters, and minimal water content to obtain a compact, solid formulation. The shampoo was produced through a controlled multi-phase process and subsequently characterized by physicochemical, microbiological, toxicological, and performance analyses. The formulation exhibited stable pH values suitable for pet skin, low moisture content, absence of free alkalinity, high solid content, and satisfactory foaming capacity. Cleaning efficiency tests demonstrated effective removal of artificial sebum from pet fur while preserving softness and shine. Microbiological assays confirmed the absence of bacterial and fungal contamination, and toxicological evaluations revealed no cytotoxicity and low eye irritation potential. In addition, the shampoo showed 100% biodegradability and maintained physicochemical and organoleptic stability over six months of storage. Overall, the results demonstrate that the developed solid shampoo represents an innovative, safe, and biodegradable alternative that reduces water consumption and plastic packaging, contributing to sustainable development in the pet cosmetics sector.

The cosmetics industry has been seeking to develop products with renewable natural ingredients to reduce the use of or even replace synthetic substances. Biosurfactants can help meet this demand. These natural compounds are renewable, biodegradable, and non-toxic or have low toxicity, offering minimal risk to humans and the environment, which has attracted the interest of an emerging consumer market and, consequently, the cosmetics industry. The aim of the present study was to produce a biosurfactant from the yeast Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 cultivated in a mineral medium containing 10% soybean oil and 5% glucose. The biosurfactant reduced the surface tension of water from 72.0 ± 0.1 mN/m to 33.0 ± 0.3 mN/m after eight days of fermentation. The yield was 53.35 ± 0.39 g/L and the critical micelle concentration was 1000 mg/L. The biosurfactant proved to be a good emulsifier of oils used in cosmetic formulations, with emulsification indices ranging from 45.90 ± 1.69% to 68.50 ± 1.10%. The hydrophilic–lipophilic balance index demonstrated the wetting capacity of the biosurfactant and its tendency to form oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, with 50.0 ± 0.20% foaming capacity. The biosurfactant did not exhibit cytotoxicity in the MTT assay or irritant potential. Additionally, an antioxidant activity of 58.25 ± 0.32% was observed at a concentration of 40 mg/mL. The compound also exhibited antimicrobial activity against various pathogenic microorganisms. The characterisation of the biosurfactant using magnetic nuclear resonance and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy revealed that the biomolecule is a glycolipid with an anionic nature. The results demonstrate that biosurfactant produced in this work has potential as an active biotechnological ingredient for innovative, eco-friendly cosmetic formulations.

Plant-derived biosurfactants are widely used due to their emulsifying and surface-active properties and can be applied in various products. The aim of this present study was to develop a mouthwash using chitosan hydrochloride and saponins extracted from the plants Chenopodium quinoa and Glycine max. After extraction of the biosurfactants using the Soxhlet method, they were characterized with the aid of infrared spectroscopy and subjected to determination of critical micelle concentration, which was found to be 4.0 and 3.5 g/L for C. quinoa and G. max, respectively. The stability of the emulsions was investigated in the presence of different oils and at different values of temperature, pH, and salinity, which showed an emulsification index greater than 40% under all conditions analyzed. After obtaining the mouthwash formulation, tests of foaming capacity, pH, and genotoxicity were performed in cells of onion (Allium cepa) roots. No presence of micronuclei was found in the roots exposed to the formulation, which indicates that there was no aggression to the cells. The results of antimicrobial susceptibility tests revealed bacteriostatic/bactericidal activity as well as antibiofilm activity of formulations against the microorganisms tested. In conclusion, the biosurfactants present in extracts from C. quinoa and G. max were found to be stable, non-toxic molecules with antimicrobial activity, with potential to replace toxic emulsifying agents commonly used in commercial products.

With the increased demand for sustainable, hypoallergenic products, plant surfactants are a promising, eco-friendly option for cleaning products due to their low toxicity or even the absence of toxicity. In the present study, surfactant-rich extracts from Chenopodium quinoa, Glycine max, and Malpighia emarginata were assessed for their stability, antioxidant capacity, toxic potential, and cleaning potential in shampoo formulations. The surfactants in the extracts were isolated and characterized by NMR, UV-Vis, and FTIR spectroscopy. The results demonstrated that the extracts remained stable within the temperature and pH ranges tested. The antioxidant properties were also determined. In the analysis of irritation potential, G. max and C. quinoa exhibited low toxicity and no toxicity, respectively. The cleaning potential analysis confirmed that the extracts could be used as primary surfactants. Seven shampoo formulations were developed, which showed potential to reduce surface tension to the range of 27.1–31.7 mN/m and interfacial tension to the range of 5.4–7.3 mN/m. The wettability, percentage of solids, density, pH, and dirt dispersion of the formulas were within standard ranges, and the sebum removal capacity of the seven formulations was similar to or even better than that of a commercial shampoo.

The production of biosurfactant by Pseudomonas aeruginosa TGC01 using crude glycerol and sodium nitrate as the sole substrate and nitrogen source, respectively, was investigated using two mineral culture media. Two inoculum sizes (5 and 10% v/v) and two volumes of the culture medium (50 and 100 mL) in 500 mL Erlenmeyer flask also were used. Enzymatic hydrolyses of waste office paper (WOP), newspaper (NP) and eucalyptus wood chips (EWC) were carried out using the biosurfactant from P. aeruginosa TGC01. The decrease in volume of the culture medium increased the production of rhamnolipid by 500% in relation to concentration obtained when higher volume of culture medium was used. High quantity biosurfactant was recovered (11 g/L) with desired surface active properties after extraction using chloroform:methanol (v/v). The biosurfactant was able to reduce the water surface tension from 72 to 27 mN/m with a critical micelle concentration (CMC) of 100 mg/L and a stable emulsion index (above 60%) in the enzymatic hydrolysis (pH 4.8 and 50 °C for 4 h). Biosurfactant increased the glucose released in the enzymatic hydrolysis in relation to control (without tensoactive) when WOP (19% increase) and NP (113% increase) were used. The process for NP (18% lignin) was economical, given that the biosurfactant present made a delignification process unnecessary.