Ana Paula Barbosa Cavalcanti

The shift toward sustainable cosmetic systems has become a strategic priority in response to rising environmental pressures, biodiversity loss, and regulatory demands for traceability and responsible sourcing. This review critically examines the Brazilian sustainability model in the cosmetics industry, focusing on three key pillars: (i) traceability and certification of origin aligned with international standards; (ii) community partnerships and equitable value sharing; and (iii) technological innovation tailored to local biodiversity contexts. It synthesizes scientific articles, regulatory documents, and industry reports published mainly between 2005 and 2025, including international certification schemes (COSMOS, ECOCERT, NATRUE, IBD) and Brazilian biodiversity laws. Quantitative export data show that Brazil’s cosmetic industry surpassed US$ 300 million in exports to major markets, emphasizing the global importance of sustainability-driven competitiveness. This study presents a conceptual framework combining biodiversity-based innovation, socio-environmental governance, and certification systems as a unique sustainability pathway distinct from traditional green cosmetic strategies. The review highlights technical challenges such as supply chain traceability, harmonization of international standards, regulatory asymmetries, and the scalability of community-based value chains. The findings indicate that Brazil’s model offers a hybrid sustainability architecture that combines biotechnological innovation, fair-benefit sharing mechanisms, and compliance with international standards. Future research should focus on quantitative impact assessment metrics, life-cycle evaluations of biodiversity-derived ingredients, and mechanisms for regulatory convergence to improve industrial scalability and global market integration.

The growing demand for sustainable cosmetic products and the rapid expansion of the pet care market have driven the search for environmentally friendly, safe, and effective alternatives to conventional formulations. In this study, an ecofriendly solid shampoo for pets was developed using exclusively natural ingredients and a microbial biosurfactant produced by Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 as a surface-active component. The biosurfactant was combined with renewable anionic and nonionic surfactants, conditioning agents, natural oils and butters, and minimal water content to obtain a compact, solid formulation. The shampoo was produced through a controlled multi-phase process and subsequently characterized by physicochemical, microbiological, toxicological, and performance analyses. The formulation exhibited stable pH values suitable for pet skin, low moisture content, absence of free alkalinity, high solid content, and satisfactory foaming capacity. Cleaning efficiency tests demonstrated effective removal of artificial sebum from pet fur while preserving softness and shine. Microbiological assays confirmed the absence of bacterial and fungal contamination, and toxicological evaluations revealed no cytotoxicity and low eye irritation potential. In addition, the shampoo showed 100% biodegradability and maintained physicochemical and organoleptic stability over six months of storage. Overall, the results demonstrate that the developed solid shampoo represents an innovative, safe, and biodegradable alternative that reduces water consumption and plastic packaging, contributing to sustainable development in the pet cosmetics sector.

The cosmetics industry has been seeking to develop products with renewable natural ingredients to reduce the use of or even replace synthetic substances. Biosurfactants can help meet this demand. These natural compounds are renewable, biodegradable, and non-toxic or have low toxicity, offering minimal risk to humans and the environment, which has attracted the interest of an emerging consumer market and, consequently, the cosmetics industry. The aim of the present study was to produce a biosurfactant from the yeast Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 cultivated in a mineral medium containing 10% soybean oil and 5% glucose. The biosurfactant reduced the surface tension of water from 72.0 ± 0.1 mN/m to 33.0 ± 0.3 mN/m after eight days of fermentation. The yield was 53.35 ± 0.39 g/L and the critical micelle concentration was 1000 mg/L. The biosurfactant proved to be a good emulsifier of oils used in cosmetic formulations, with emulsification indices ranging from 45.90 ± 1.69% to 68.50 ± 1.10%. The hydrophilic–lipophilic balance index demonstrated the wetting capacity of the biosurfactant and its tendency to form oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, with 50.0 ± 0.20% foaming capacity. The biosurfactant did not exhibit cytotoxicity in the MTT assay or irritant potential. Additionally, an antioxidant activity of 58.25 ± 0.32% was observed at a concentration of 40 mg/mL. The compound also exhibited antimicrobial activity against various pathogenic microorganisms. The characterisation of the biosurfactant using magnetic nuclear resonance and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy revealed that the biomolecule is a glycolipid with an anionic nature. The results demonstrate that biosurfactant produced in this work has potential as an active biotechnological ingredient for innovative, eco-friendly cosmetic formulations.